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Travel StoriesSome Iberian Mountains
Back To Santander
Ride Date 25 September 2024
By Ren Withnell
Yup, definitely better in a real bed, warmer too. Alas and alack it's time to go back to Santander for our last night in Spain before we catch the ferry back to Blighty tomorrow. Plus we'll be camping in Santander so no comfy bed tonight. It's not looking good is it. Nor is the weather. I really ought not complain, the weather has been "threatening" all the time we've been here and so far yesterday was the only day we've gotten wet, and that was only slightly wet.
Doors! Real doors! And comfy things and warmth.
"Sharon - we could head east then north, mostly main roads. They look interesting enough, but there's a route with some twisty bits and a handful of 'Miradors'. What's ya thinking?"
"Well the weather isn't the best but this is our last day on the road, be a shame to just hit the main roads. How are we for time and miles, it won't take us like forever to get there will it?"
"85 miles, at a steady easy pace heck there can't be more than 4 hours riding at the absolute worst."
"How twisty?"
"I don't know, twisty?"
"Yeah, no, OK lets not waste the day, lets do it."
By the time we're packed and cleaned the chalet lodge thingy it's only around 1130, half an hour before the very civilised 1200 "leave the chalet" time. We return the keys and make our way north on the CL-627.
Well that didn't take long! We are back in the mountains once more and while the clouds pass overhead the road is dry and the scenery is improving with every mile. Admittedly the road isn't a twister just yet but I'm happy to cruise along taking it all in. Before a half hour has passed we're into the twisties and pulling into another "Mirador" or viewpoint.
There's definitly rain, but my word what an impressive vista. Mirador de Piedrasluengas.
While Sharon snaps away I engage in conversation with a group of British riders. Well, I try at least, they're "polite" but I sense my presence is unwelcome, curt replies like "oh, Potes" and "yeah it's alright". Hmmm. I wander off to admire the views then check my face in the bike's mirror to see if I have a bogey hanging out of my nose. No? Oh well, whatever.
More twists and turns, another Mirador with a statue and more majestic mountains. It has become repetitive to describe them time and time and time again so you know the score - vast vistas, gnarly outcrops, huge valleys, blah blah blah. It comes to something when you're getting tired of describing the wonder of it all. I'm not getting tired of seeing it though. If you're fortunate enough to see it every day do you get tired of it? I'd like to find out.
Oh poor us! The horror of enduring such wonders. Mirador de la Cruz de Cabezuela
Hey guess what? Another lake, I bet it's another Emblase, reservoir. As expected it is perfectly picturesque with rocky bits, a steep valley, gnarly road and the water close by. Uh-huh there it is, the dam, the road starts to drop steeply then I spy a place to park so we pull in.
This is a steep steep gorge, as such the dam is tall and narrow, and disconcertingly appears to be leaking through the concrete. I'm no structural engineer and no-one seems to be panicking so I guess the lower part of the dam just looks wet? Not my monkeys, not my circus, not my problem. I look away from the dam to the steep rocks and notice a road clinging precariously to the side of the gorge. That, that's not our road is it?
Is it me or is it leaking? Embalse De La Cohilla.
Yeah, it is, and that is my problem. I ought to know better by now but when I see scary roads I wonder how Sharon's going to get on. Oh come on Ren she's ridden Bealach na Bà and most of Scotland, most of Wales, The Picos and The Estrela, oh and a few German and Belgium hills too. I wonder... is it me that's scared and mansplaining my fears onto her? Deep, real deep.
Yikes! I'm not scared. No. No it's Sharon that's scared. Honest it is.
The road is a car and a half wide. That's fine if the oncoming traffic can be bothered keeping to their side but when the edge of the road to my right (and we ride on the right here) is nothing more than low concrete blocks leading to a calamitous death I can't help but prey they do keep to their side. I desperately want to look down into the gorge to admire it but the bike goes where I look and I only want to see it, not ride into it. I look, I feel dizzy, I look straight back at the road. This is wonderful and amazing, also nerve wrecking and gut churning.
As we come out of the gorge of course Sharon is just fine. Yeah, it seems I'm the problem not her. I really enjoyed that in a roller coaster fashion. My god The Picos and the surrounding region have A LOT to offer. It's a whole area filled with endless miles of fun roads through cathedralesque gorges, pretty towns and curious villages, and at this time of year it's not TOO busy.
Puentenansa bring us back into civilisation and with it a petrol station. After filling I consult the maps and find there's a cafe a short walk away. I double check we're not parking illegally or inconsiderately, we leave the bikes close to the petrol station and walk to the cafe. Bearing in mind that The Picos is popular with motorcyclists - as I walk into the cafe it is still a local cafe but the curious looks are gone, I'm "just another rider, probably foreign".
The weather remains with us. It is perfectly agreeable to sit outside sipping pop while looking at the intriguing higgledy piggeldy houses across the way and the half rocky half tree covered hill top over there. We talk, yeah we're going to miss this for sure. The notion of working while living in a cold grey country with a cold, wet and windy winter on it's way seems like an alien existence. The notion is there though, diametrically opposite to the notion of a light at the end of the proverbial tunnel.
Keep smiling sweetie, even though the end is nigh.
There's one last Mirador to stop and look at. The surroundings are now softer and greener, we soak them in and mount up once more for the last leg. Down down down out of the hills and into the lush farmland, and then finally onto the motorway.
Mirador Asomada del Ribero - one last splendid vista before we get to the motorways.
As I cruise the hardtop I get to thinking. Those riders, those rude British riders. Miserable sods, I hope Johnny Foreigner doesn't think that all Brits are miserable gits. Hang on, think about it, maybe there's more. Maybe they've had a falling out because Billy always wants to stop for a ciggie and is sulking because he secretly hates corners. Maybe they've just found out Simon's Mrs is having and affair. Maybe they've booked the wrong hotel above an all night nightclub. I just don't know. Be fair Ren, you've had plenty of bad days too.
Santander is a city with all the city things I hate like traffic and junctions too many lanes and not enough hills. Before long we're rolling up to the now familiar campsite, Cabo Mayor.
Cabo Mayor remains functional but it seems to be lacking in love and care these days. It's been, ooooooh blimey, 19 years since I first came here and it was fresh and clean and new looking. Today it needs a coat of paint and a thick layer of looking after. There is grass, the toilets do toilet things and are not dirty, I just feel like the current ownership is merely taking the profits rather than investing in their asset.
Being "out of season" won't help. The bar is closed, the pool is closed, the entertainment room is closed, and the receptionist informs us the site will be closed at the end of the month. It's not like the site is deserted though. There are plenty of camper vans and the odd large tent, most of whom are foreigners like us preparing to catch the ferry or recovering from the ferry.
We pitch in the sun and sort ourselves out. We have sufficient supplies but I find a small supermarket nearby on Google maps which we take a stroll to, getting supplies for tomorrow. The area around the campsite is far from salubrious and the supermarket is like being in a questionable Kwik Save from the 80's. As we return to the tent the skies are looking heavier.
We walk to the "Cabo" ie the lighthouse. It's getting cool and out on the promontory the wind is howling in from the sea. We don't hang around as it's getting cold, just enough time for a few pictures, that's enough.
The views from the lighthouse ain't too bad this evening.
As the sun sets and we settle in for the night there's a new noise. Rain on the tent. It starts out as little pitter patters but rapidly becomes a deafening clatter. I run around - zipping things up, lifting things off the floor, ensuring the bikes won't sink into the softening ground, all the while I'm getting wet. This is from the sublime to the ridiculous, it's absolutely siling it down now.
Well this is a rather disappointing end to the trip. No, no be positive Ren. We have been surprisingly, pleasingly, impressively lucky this time around. The weather folks have been threatening rain ever since we left Sharon's house, this is the second time we've encountered it and the first time was barely noticeable. We have been spoilt rotten with - well I won't say excellent - but fair weather for almost 2 weeks now.
It's dark and wet and none too warm. Great.
Heck, even if tonight's a washout we're done with the good roads and tomorrow we'll be ensconced in the warmth of a cabin on the boat. Yes of course it would be better if it wasn't raining. Oh poop, did I bring in my gloves from off the bike? Is that a drip coming through the seam on the tent? Drat.
Today was something of a surprise as I had not expected the route from Cervera de Pisuerga to be as pretty and impressive as it was. We didn't expect the weather we enjoyed too. Equally while we knew it might rain we weren't expecting the deluge we are presently suffering. I'm looking forward to the cabin tomorrow but I'm not looking forward to going home and back to reality.
Maybe I ought not to go on holiday. Maybe I ought never enjoy myself. The problem is all good things must come to an end. This is why I am perpetually miserable see.
Advertise here - contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
Prologue - Some Iberian Mountains
Organising a simple 2 week bike tour should be easy peasy. Watch Ren make this simple task as difficult as possible.
Easing Into The Trip
After plenty of flapping and fretting Ren can calm down and start to enjoy the ride. It's a simple journey today with no purpose other than getting closer to the forthcoming ferry.
Onto The Ferry
Ren takes a simple short trip and turns it into an unnecessarily arduous ride to the ferry. Then all the Dynamic Muppets have to do is get on the ferry. Should be easy - right?
Off The Ferry And Into The Affray
It's all waiting and chaos, confusion and queueing - and that's just getting off the ferry. Despite being in Spain the evening has a very English feel with an English friend.
The Wonder That Is Riano
What started out as a good day turns into a really good day. There is of course a mishap and some moaning, otherwise so far so good. What's the catch, there's gotta be a catch.
Feeling Lucky In Riano
Gird your loins dear readers - Sharon and Ren are accidentally having another "really good day". There's a glitch in The Matrix, buy a lottery ticket, this is a one time only special deal. Normal misery will return soon surely.
Same Peninsula Different Language
It's time to leave the beauty of Riano and head into the "Yellow Country". There's potholes and Ren making an ass of himself. Nothing new then.
Dull Roads And Strange Accommodation
There's plenty of scenery but the ride is not so interesting today. The accommodation is unexpected in both good and bad ways.
Excellence In Its Own Way
More Mountains! The Serra da Estrela provides a wiggly squiggly experience that's similar yet different to many other mountainous regions. The Dynamic Muppets get to ride and relish around.
Dams And Delights
As the Dynamic Muppets start their return leg Portugal has more scenic delights in store. Ren is still facing going cold turkey without tea - poor poor Ren.
Tea Is Tea, Even If It's Poor Tea
The morning is all about the desperate search for real tea. The afternoon would have been fine if Ren's wallet hadn't been opened so vigorously.
A Dull Day Here Is Better Than Home
The surroundings are great, the riding is fun, the town is lovely. This isn't the best day of the trip so far but Ren is just a miserable fool.
Back To Santander
One last day on the road for the Dynamic Muppets - luckily it's an good one with easy miles and sensational scenery. Fear not - the night is not without its woes.
The Beginning Of The Misery
Ren is not having a good day at all. He's trying to stay positive by clinging to the memory of an excellent adventure and the handrails. I'm sure you'll all enjoy sharing his distress.
Reader's Comments
Bogger said :-
Perpetually miserable! I bet your favorite band is the Smiths.
A bit of rain always helps on a trip. It's the hardship that makes it memorable.
I can't wait for the next episode where it rains all the way home.
Bring it on
Bogger
12/03/2025 22:30:59 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
"Maybe I ought never enjoy myself. The problem is all good things must come to an end. This is why I am perpetually miserable see".
Is it Ed or Adele?
It's the bad tea innit, I think a gallon of monkey tea and half a dozen packs of choccy digestives will fire him back into life. Maybe, maybe not?
Mirador de la Cruz de Cabezuela, what a view hey, but like you say there's no shortage in the Picos.
As always Ed you are a master of the keyboard, the Bernard Shaw of the motorcycle forum....“The reasonable man adapts himself to the world: the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man.”
Ta me ducks.
Upt.
12/03/2025 23:25:20 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I've got good news and bad news Bogger... it does not rain all the way home but there is some more misery coming soon. How'd you keep a fool in suspense? I'll tell ya later.
..."a gallon of monkey tea and half a dozen packs of choccy digestives"... oh yes, most definitely the road to recovery is paved with tea and choccy biscuits.
As for my musical tastes? I'll happily enjoy a bit of Adele or The Smiths, alongside System of a Down, Steeleye Span, Abba, Sepultura, Simon and Garfunkel... I've tried and tried with jazz and opera but I just can't get there.
13/03/2025 07:48:55 UTC
nab301 said :-
Some stunning views there Ren , I'm looking forward to the misery ....
Nigel
15/03/2025 18:00:24 UTC
Borsuk said :-
Comments like that above on other sites would be fighting words Nab301 but on this one, to the regulars, it just means get the fire stoked up and the ice cream out as the main feature is about to start.
15/03/2025 18:52:12 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I know deep down you all come here just to see me suffer. My botches, my cock-ups, my moaning and griping, all these things make your own lives seem far less miserable.
I do these things so you don't have to.
17/03/2025 08:13:29 UTC
Bros Steve said :-
looks like you both had a great trip Ren.
Interesting story as well. I've only been to Spain once and that was just over the border from France to the Costa Blanca
23/03/2025 08:42:42 UTC
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Travel StoriesSome Iberian Mountains