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Travel StoriesSome Iberian Mountains
Same Peninsula Different Language
Ride Date 19 September 2024
By Ren Withnell
It's misty again this morning. I'm up a tad later than usual and the sun is already here although I can only gain a vague sense of its direction in this weather. I'd say it's slightly warmer too, the bite from yesterday isn't there. My phone reports the forecast is still not without the threat of rain but today ought not be a washout. We shall wait and see, we shall keep the waterproofs at hand.
Down there somewhere is the town of Riano.
So what's the plan? Via FaceAche a couple we know have strongly recommended a campsite in central Portugal. Camping Toca da Raposa is 315 miles from our present location which is a bit too far for our gentle pace. I have searched and searched and found a campsite 170 odd miles from here which is en route. The campsite doesn't look anything special but it's cheap and not too far from a town. I suspect, due to the price and location, it's the Portuguese version of France's Camping Municipal, a council run site.
As we start do decamp David ("Daveeed") is already packed and we bid him farewell as he cranks up the Shadow with a loud V-Twin throb. He wishes us well on our journey into "Ze Yellow Country", by which he means not specifically Portugal, rather the central bits of Iberia which are at this time of year - yellow.
David is ready to continue with his own adventures.
Back on the same road we took yesterday to Cistierna and we both fill up at the petrol station I filled at yesterday. After Cistierna the mountains become hills and the hills become undulations. We're into broad open land, not flat like The Fens, there's soft rises and falls however the skies are vast and the road endlessly vanishes far into the distance. And yes it is yellow. Not a vibrant safety helmet yellow, it's the yellow of straw, the yellow of dry earth, the yellow of dry grass.
This is not exciting riding, this is transportation. I am however not bored like I get bored on UK motorways. I'm mildly enjoying seeing the countryside, occasionally imagining myself exploring a remote desert or the set of a Spaghetti Western. Contrary to the forecast it's dry, almost arid, warm but not hot. This is easy riding save for the odd towns and junctions.
50 miles in and I pull off the main road and stop at a lonely petrol station. We're good for fuel but I think a drink is in order. With the main road only a short distance away it's obvious we're not far from civilisation, I know we're only a few miles from Leon yet it feels quite different here. It feels remote, it feels like I really am in another country. I can't put my finger on why - it's farmland and roads, nothing I haven't seen before in the UK. Maybe I'm homesick. No, I'm quite happy here. Go figure.
There's nothing different here but it feels "other worldly".
Dagnammit so I missed that turning but not to worry, that's the advantage of Sat-Nav it'll just sort out the new route. Next right, that makes sense. Say what? This side road appears to be well on it's way to becoming "off road".
We're out in the sticks, as I park the bike and look around I could easily pretend I'm in the badlands of some 1960s cowboy B-movie. Sat-Nav assures me this is the right road and I don't think Google Maps has an "off road" feature. There's more potholes than there is road in places, it's obvious this road has not seen the attention of a tarmac team for many a year.
There is road between the holes.
Badlands Amurika or Iberia. It's all in the imagination.
I have concerns. I've recently dented a wheel hitting a pothole back in Blighty, I don't want to do that far from home. While I have limited off road experience Sharon doesn't. I know not how far we have to go before we find a better road. On the other hand I don't want to turn around and backtrack. I discuss this with Sharon. We'll go on carefully for a while but if it gets worse we'll have to turn around.
We delicately pick our way through the potholes. Occasionally we have to go through a stretch of gravel or through a mire, I'm watching the mirrors but Sharon's doing fine. It's only 3 miles to Ferreras de Arriba but it seems like a lot longer. From here the road become acceptable, mercifully. I note I'm going slower, expecting another huge pothole to appear without warning.
The rest of the ride, some 30 miles, is fine. We appear to be back into some kind of hills, there is but the humblest of signs that informs us we've crossed into Portugal, and by the time we reach Vimioso we are ready to stop and rest and get settled in for the night.
Yeah, OK fair enough. The campsite at this time of year is not at it's best. There's not a patch of grass just hard ground covered in dried up now brown needles from the trees that seem far too tall to provide shade in the summer. There's not a soul here, not a tent nor a van nor a car. It looks closed, poop. Oh wait there's a reception and I can see a person within, there is hope.
Well the trees are still green.
Not "pretty" today but very functional.
I only have 2 Portuguese words, "Obrigado" ie "thank you" (NB "Obrigada" for the ladies) and "Que" spoken "Ke" which is the same as Spanish for "what?". This is embarrassing, I seem to recall while Portuguese and Spanish languages share some roots the Portuguese people don't really like it when you assume they'll understand Spanish. Which is exactly what I start trying to speak. Nope. Luckily the lady on reception speaks perfect French so we muddle through with that. How odd.
It's cheap enough, €8 for the night. While the ground is hard and the entertainment non existent the toilets are spectacularly clean and fresh and apparently the gate is locked at night as we're given a key - the bikes should be safe. Not that there's a soul hereabouts save for the odd cars passing on the road. We pitch up and work out what's what before collapsing into the camping chairs with a brew. However the day is not done.
Vimioso is a small town but it does have a couple of shops. The walk to town is further than I thought (like Riano) but still manageable. The shop instantly reminds me of Netto back in the mid 90s, a bit dark, pallets as well as shelves, narrow gaps between the shelving, and no brands just basic goods. We make our selections although I can't find any actual tea or teabags. Pfffft.
The shop is busy and the lady serving is stout and looks mean. However as Sharon fudges the payment card and I fudge the packing and foolishly speak Spanish she's all smiles, helping me with my obrigado/obrigada and a local with a hint of English says "obrigado for man, obrigada for girl" and we all have a laugh, my laugh is nervous.
I'm warn out by the time we get back and the sun is getting low in the sky. We make our meal and drink our tea and settle down for the evening. Today has not been another amazing day, we are in the business of moving from one place to another. The scenery has been interesting if not amazing. The riding has been fine but uninspiring. The campsite and the town are merely functional. I however remain thankful the bikes are behaving, we have food and shelter, and we are well and warm and dry (so far). The threat of rain has not become reality today, tomorrow's forecast ain't good though.
Advertise here - contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
Prologue - Some Iberian Mountains
Organising a simple 2 week bike tour should be easy peasy. Watch Ren make this simple task as difficult as possible.
Easing Into The Trip
After plenty of flapping and fretting Ren can calm down and start to enjoy the ride. It's a simple journey today with no purpose other than getting closer to the forthcoming ferry.
Onto The Ferry
Ren takes a simple short trip and turns it into an unnecessarily arduous ride to the ferry. Then all the Dynamic Muppets have to do is get on the ferry. Should be easy - right?
Off The Ferry And Into The Affray
It's all waiting and chaos, confusion and queueing - and that's just getting off the ferry. Despite being in Spain the evening has a very English feel with an English friend.
The Wonder That Is Riano
What started out as a good day turns into a really good day. There is of course a mishap and some moaning, otherwise so far so good. What's the catch, there's gotta be a catch.
Feeling Lucky In Riano
Gird your loins dear readers - Sharon and Ren are accidentally having another "really good day". There's a glitch in The Matrix, buy a lottery ticket, this is a one time only special deal. Normal misery will return soon surely.
Same Peninsula Different Language
It's time to leave the beauty of Riano and head into the "Yellow Country". There's potholes and Ren making an ass of himself. Nothing new then.
Reader's Comments
nab301 said :-
Obrigado Ren for keeping us updated! , I was expecting to see a photo of you with a cowboy hat and a six shooter...
Nigel
17/12/2024 10:11:23 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Well I never, I never knew there was two thank you'se in Portuguese. This site is an edumication.
I have ridden those roads south of the Picos Ed me Lad, and yes, they're pretty straight, dusty and dry.
The roads are actually a lot nicer, sort of South of Bilbao, which we found out when forced off the Picos by the weather a couple of years ago. They're still dry, straight (in the main) and dusty though.
I'll post a piccie if I can find one Ed, although I've never experienced roads that bad with pot holes in Portugal/Spain.
Dry is underrated.
Upt.
17/12/2024 16:49:52 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
If the piccie appears twice Ed please delete, I've had a malfunction, it's me age you know.
17/12/2024 16:55:10 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
nab301 - you can clearly see the amount of crap I already have on the bike, but alas I did not have with me my Stetson nor my Colt 45. Thinking on - having a Colt 45 while passing through security and customs for the ferry might be considered "unwise".
Well done Upt', you managed to get the piccy up there. We'll make a techie out of you yet. There are indeed some fabulously twisty roads in Spain and Portugal, it is worth remembering there's a lot of flat and a lot of straight roads there too, depends where you are. Fear not bend lovers - there are some very bendy roads to come in the exciting future episodes...
17/12/2024 18:52:47 UTC
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Travel StoriesSome Iberian Mountains