The city of Nice seen from the surrounding hillside bathed in sunshine


Repair And Restoration

From the worst of the bodges to the craft of restoration...

chrome plated spanners and sockets in a plastic tool case

Sharon's Headlamp Saga Continues Sharon's crazy crazed headlight finds itself in the hands of Bogger. Can he fix it? Well if anyone can Bogger can.
RKS 125 Seat Removal And Refitting It's easy when you know how, but if you don't know it ain't. A comprehensive look at refitting the seat on a 2013 Keeway RKS125
A £39 New Front Brake Ren has been flashing the cash by splashing out on some braking bling for the 125. Here begins the El Cheapo Brake Adventure
Suzuki DL 250 V Strom Valve Clearance Check Nigel's guide to servicing the tappets on Suzuki's 250 Adventure model suggests it's not too much trouble for the home mechanic
Coffee Liqueur In The Airbox Obviously Ren knows Honda's CBF125 better than its creator, Honda. Here he investigates the complex issues of crankcase breathers and offers some bad advice.
CB500X Evaporation Canister Underneath the tank of the CB500X is already a cramped space. Now there's an Evap system too, whatever the hell that is.
Z250SL Headlight Crazing Sharon is at risk of cracking up. So is the headlight on her Kwakker 250. Ren just makes the first problem worse but maybe he can help with the second.
Tour-A-Plank V2.6 One of Ren's bodges, with the help of Sharon, could perhaps actually possibly maybe almost quite good! Meet Tour-A-Plank Version 2.6.
A DIY Bullet Connector There's a small island in the remote wilderness of the Irish Sea. On this atoll lives a mad scientist and he's planning on world domination! One tiny teeny little bullet connector at a time. Nefarious or what.
State Of The Engine Address Not all adventures are of the going somewhere kind. Ren's latest adventure takes him on a treacherous journey to the centre of his engine. So what's it like inside a 90,000 mile 125cc motor?
See More

Reader's Comments

Tom McQ said :-

01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Cheers tom
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
mick murphy said :-
Hi guys my honda 125 cbf is running at nearly 4000 revs in idle mode .any advie would be appreciated
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Hi Mick. Check the throttle cables are adjusted, check some idiot has not tried to adjust the throttle stop, this shouldn't need to ever be touched on the CBF 125.

Otherwise you're into the injector and you'll need to know what you're up to in there.
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
RobE said :-
I have a tapping sound from my CBC on idle. Knocks seven or eight times then stops-does this repeatedly. Sounds a bit like a ratchet being turned slowly. Any of you guys come across this
28/05/2017 18:29:52 UTC
RobE said :-
CBF of course
28/05/2017 18:31:07 UTC
RobE said :-
CBF of course
28/05/2017 18:31:08 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Hi RobE. It *could* the same problem as I had. Thing is check everything else before you start stripping the motor down.

Check out the links.
28/05/2017 19:53:24 UTC
Alfred said :-
I have a dominator nx650 1997 and I have a 1993 model wiring harness want to know wether it will work without any electrical problems.
02/08/2018 18:36:54 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
That's a fair old ask Alfred! You'd need access to the wiring diagrams for each year to see if there were any upgrades or alterations made. I daresay my first port of call would usually be Haynes manuals but I've checked their website and I don't see one listed for the Dommie.

Then I was going to suggest an owner's forum but I'm not doing very well there either. will show you the fiche diagram for each wiring harness for each year. A cursory look suggests the harnesses LOOK the same but that is not guarantee they ARE the same.

Good luck with the work Alfred.
02/08/2018 22:34:12 UTC
CrazyFrog said :-
Alfred, you could try asking your question on the Honda Trail Bike forum. They have a section for Dominator riders.
03/08/2018 07:56:03 UTC
Ian Soady said :-
Yes, I found them useful for my SLR650. Bob (once of this parish although he seems to have disappeared) posted some interesting stuff there. I have a vague feeling he's returned to the Honda singles after dalliances with various other marques.
03/08/2018 11:18:30 UTC
RobEll said :-
Sorry to add to your completed thread but I wondered if you had any tips or advice on adjusting Keeway RKV125 Tappets? It's not that I don't entirely trust the dealership but I have always taken some joy in maintaining my own bikes albeit mostly old, small capacity smelly strokers from the mid 80's. I'm assuming by the casing shape and engine numbers of Sharon's old RKS that they are likely to share the same engine. Any pitfalls or help gratefully received notwithstanding the excellent how-to tappet adjustment for the cbf. A great website by-the-by, and one of the main sources of inspiration/confidence to get back on two wheels after almost a decade away from bikes - thank you.
01/04/2019 23:08:48 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
I'm pretty sure the RKV has the same engine as the RKS - it should say on the engine casing KW127FMI.

Firstly - do you know how to set tappets?

The main pitfall is this. Access to the tappet adjustment is under 2 caps on the rocker cover. Getting the feeler gauges in there is fiddly to start with - BUT - the tappets are held closed by these springs under the cover. This is a real pain in the ass. The only solution I've come up with so far is to hold the tappet open with string.

02/04/2019 08:39:14 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Getting the string in wasn't easy either.

02/04/2019 08:40:00 UTC
Ian Soady said :-
Or you could use my cunning plan of using the adjusters as micrometers as posted somewhere here.....
02/04/2019 15:04:27 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Yeah true. If RobEll comes back and asks I'm sure you'll explain once again. I'd be tempted to remove the springs, the Suzukis which the motor is based on never needed them. But I would not dare to mess with Sharon's bike without written permission.

This week I offered to ride her bike back to my place and keep it during the week. This would allow me to get it MOTd without inconveniencing her in the slightest. The look on her face!! You'd think I'd just pooped in the corner of her kitchen. She did not like the idea of not having the bike at home, of me riding it unsupervised and the (not unreasonable) fear I might tinker with it while it's in my possession. Sheeeeeez!
02/04/2019 15:33:39 UTC
RobEll said :-
Thanks for the reply. The engine No is slightly different - KW157FMI. Perhaps not exactly the same engine. I have the basic idea of how to check valve clearances and a few years tinkerage in years past. I was considering taking off the valve covers only and giving them a check, but those non-valve related springs...why? The only issue I don't know how to check is alignment of the timing marks as I haven't taken the head off and as your photos suggest the rocker cover might lift off the entire rocker arm gubbins etc. Im not looking forward to that, perhaps I'm a little bit lazy. I'll start with checking them only and try out the routine of getting to and uncovering the valves. I'm between self-educated guess and half an idea about basic bike maintenance in terms of competence but sometimes I can bodge things into submission. The closest I can get to a Haynes manual is the Chinese motorcycle offerings, not yet purchased. I like the shoelaces idea though! Is there a window or other way I can align the timing marks accurately, perhaps similarly to the RKS? I know it's a bit of an ask knowing that the engines may indeed be slightly different, but hopefully similar enough.
03/04/2019 22:17:38 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Sorry RobEll, typo, yes Sharon's RKS is a 157 not 127... Silly me.

If you give me some time I'll see if I can find some instructions online tomorrow. The engine is RIDICULOUSLY common so there must surely be a good solid guide somewhere. I'll let you know what I find.
03/04/2019 23:27:35 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Hi RobEll. This video will give you the absolute basics but it's not exactly professional.
04/04/2019 13:47:45 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
This is a Suzuki manual, you're engine is a copy of this. At 2-5 is a very simple explanation of checking the valves
04/04/2019 13:56:40 UTC
RobEll said :-
That manual is spot-on what I was looking for, thank you! I'd have a check at the clearances this weekend but the dealership had marked the plug over the timing window. I'll have to be careful to align it properly if I have look in the near future. Thanks again.
05/04/2019 22:40:20 UTC
Glyn said :-
Hi All,
I've stumbled across your site because I was paid (for a plumbing job) with a 2012 CBF125. Sadly it was stolen / recovered 18 months ago and has not run since. I love this little bike and intend to renovate it completely. As part of the stolen issue, the ignition wiring was ripped out of the ignition switch. Having fitted a new switch and rewired the damaged part, I replaced the oil, plug and air filter. One new battery and some fresh petrol later and it started, hooray! However, every time the engine stops it makes a very odd sound almost like a starter motor recoil. It does this about 1 second after the engine comes to a halt. Does anyone have any ideas please?
The bike has done 19,000 miles and I've gone 66 years to date.
10/07/2021 20:01:37 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Could it simply be a sticking starter button? Has it got a starter button, I presume it has.
If not a sticking button check the wiring again.
10/07/2021 21:37:49 UTC
Glyn said :-
Hi Upt'North, Thank you for your reply. It does have a starter button as you presumed. Your post got me thinking more about it. I had thought it was something more internal but, if the starter mechanism remained engaged after the engine was started, it would account for the rattle noise when running (not overly severe and I haven't heard one of these running before so have no benchmark). I think I should try bump starting it to see if it still does it when I don't actually use the starter motor. However, the Centre stand is rusted in the down position and so I will need to sort that out first. The starter solenoid does not have any volts on it when the bike is running and so I think the wiring is ok. I'll report back but it might be a little while as I have read the removal of the Centre stand can be a major operation in itself. I am presuming the starter motor has some sort of bendix (harking back to my 1960's car experiences) that could well be sticky after standing unused for 18 months.
11/07/2021 08:39:47 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I suspect Upt' could be onto something here. I've had the actual starter button stick on and admittedly the noise is there but so quiet I didn't notice... for a few miles.

The centre stand is the BITCH FROM HELL to remove. The pin that goes through the frame then the swingarm rusts in place. Usually the pin will affix to the stand but still rotate in the frame, allowing the centre stand to operate fine. It's unusual for it to seize in the frame preventing regular expected movement.

Yes if you get the bike bump started with the starter motor disconnected and the problem persists it would appear the starter clutch is dysfunctional. It does not have a bendix system like a car. There's a gear on the end of the starter that engages with a larger gear on the back of the alternator's rotor (a bunch of magnets in a bowl shape). Behind this there's a clutch operating on the "sprag clutch" system. You *WILL* need the correct flywheel puller to gain access to the sprag clutch.
12/07/2021 09:27:44 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
My flywheel puller for my 09 CBF125 is an M33 x P1.5. That's an M33 thread internal with a 1.5mm thread pitch.
Posted Image
12/07/2021 09:34:01 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
This IS NOT a CBF125 engine but very similar... The flywheel is the bowl shaped item and the starter gear is circled in red. It should be easy to move with your fingers in one direction, it should turn the engine in the other direction.
Posted Image
12/07/2021 09:49:41 UTC
Glyn said :-
Thanks for that information Ren. The Centre stand pin is rusted in the stand as you say. However, it is stuck because the stand goes "over the centre" and jams against the frame. I got it off by putting the front wheel onto 2 pallets and strapping the bike and down then was able to work underneath it. A single strike with a heavy mallet got it loose and then after many operations it seems ok. I have not yet further investigated the engine noise but will do shortly.
14/07/2021 06:42:29 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
You've made a start Glyn. That's half the battle.
14/07/2021 18:24:01 UTC
Glyn said :-
I got a little further today by removing the alternator cover. The starter motor idler wheel was removed and the Sprag clutch did exactly what it said it should in the Haynes manual and in Ren's wise post above, That is, move freely in the clockwise direction and try to drive the motor when turned anti clockwise. I re-attached the idler wheel, removed the Spark plug and spun the engine by hand. As soon as the engine ceases to turn, the Sprag clutch engages and makes a slight mechanical noise in doing so and moves very slightly clockwise. This is almost similar to the problem I have but much quieter and not so long lasting. I did notice that when I drained the oil, it had the consistency of water i.e. zero viscosity and wondered whether this could be causing me some problems. Poor little bike, I imagine that has been so neglected by the previous 3 owners. There is a chance that this could be the original 9 year old oil.
15/07/2021 18:16:37 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Curious, maybe we've not gotten to the nub of the problem yet Glyn. But yes! Be sure to put some fresh oil in there, the engine will thank you without question. As a matter of good sense I'd also check the tappets because if the oil ain't been done then the tappets won't have been either. Haynes will guide you well but just in case - check the link.
16/07/2021 10:25:59 UTC
Glyn said :-
I am on it Ren, I bought a new set of feeler gauges today as my old set were languishing in the bottom of my toolbox with an unhealthy covering of rust. I decided to make access as easy as possible so started to remove the exhaust pipe. A previous attempt by persons unknown managed to completely mangle the nut next to the frame which took an age to get free. I couldn't use the angle grinder as I needed to reuse the entire exhaust as its not too bad. (in fact its very good but as someone has slung the bike down the road at some time, the Chrome heat shield is badly scratched). I bought some stainless steel studs and nuts ready for the refit. Whilst I'm at it, I shall remove the clutch cover to check the items in there and clean / replace the small oil strainer as mentioned in one of your helpful previous posts. A new complete engine gasket set is on its way and so I might as well open it all up.
Haynes manual is ok (print very small for old eyes) but your link is brilliant. Many thanks.
16/07/2021 19:17:48 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I still think there must be a better way to attach exhausts to cylinder heads. Beware of stainless nuts on stainless threads, google "stainless galling". Use plenty of copperslip or similar.
19/07/2021 08:44:04 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Remember using lube on any bolt/nut could result in over tightening. Torque figures are usually given for dry assembly.
19/07/2021 09:24:22 UTC
Glyn said :-
Many thanks for the advice, I will use copper grease and I have a torque wrench. I'm sure the noise problem when the engine ceases to turn is the Sprag clutch as turning it over on the starter with the Stator cover (and plug cap) removed does cause a similar noise so I'm going to have to buy the flywheel remover to get to it. Maybe it was the oil together with the bike only running for approximately 45 seconds after a two year lay up and so not reaching some parts during that period. In the meantime, I've turned my mind to the rear end and replacing the sprocket cush drives, the brake shoes and the chain plus a thorough clean. The front sprocket seems very loose on the shaft although the fixings are all tight. There's not much mention of this in the manual so further investigation is required.
22/07/2021 06:17:39 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
The front sprocket. As per the image there's 2 10mm headed M6 threaded bolts that go through the fixing plate into the sprocket. The plate is there to merely stop the sprocket sliding off the output shaft. The sprocket is not *TIGHT* onto the shaft and some movement is to be expected. But yeah, remove the sprocket and inspect the output shaft. Any wear will be obvious but at such low mileage I can't imagine there will be any. Mine has 93,000 miles of abuse on it and it's fine.

If you've come from machines (usually larger capacity bikes) where the sprocket is VERY firmly affixed to the output shaft that play can be somewhat alarming.
Posted Image
22/07/2021 08:53:41 UTC
Borsuk said :-
You get torque assembly charts for lubed bolts as well as teflon and xylene coated. Not just dry as all the bolts at work are lubed before replacement otherwise it is grinder time to get the damn things back off. 1.5 million barrels of crude and grinding sparks do not play nicely together so we try to minimise the need.
22/07/2021 21:46:33 UTC

Post Your Comment Posts/Links Rules



Add a RELEVANT link (not required)

Upload an image (not required)

No uploaded image
Real Person Number
Please enter the above number below


Admin -- -- Service Records Ren's Nerding Blog