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Travel StoriesSome Iberian Mountains
A Dull Day Here Is Better Than Home
Ride Date 24 September 2024
By Ren Withnell
I sure do like a nice comfy bed in a real building with a toilet a few paces away. If Sharon would only try harder, work harder and become rich I'd be happy to use pods and chalets and lodges every night. Alas it seems I am not destined to become a kept man, I shall have to contend with tents and hard floors. But last night was comfy in this chalet and we're here again tonight, so that'll have to do I suppose.
Quite intentionally we have little to do today. Let me see, errrr, we sail on the 26th, we shall get to Santander on the 25th, and today is the 24th. We are about 85 miles from Santander so we have an easy ride tomorrow and all day to do it. Today is ours to fill as we choose. I think firstly we'll take a walk into Cervera de Pisuerga, get some more supplies, and see what's there. Later, if we can be bothered, there's a simple 50 mile loop with another squiggly road we can ride around. That'll do nicely.
Sharon's up and about and dressed and fed at a rather surprising 0830. Carrefour's own brand tea is barely drinkable but drink it I do, my survival depends on it. With a secure place to leave our kit we bravely head out and take on the 1 mile walk into town.
The Parque del Pisuerga is a small park beside the river. The usual stuff is present, a few benches, trees here and there, and some kind of waterway that appears to be fundamentally lacking in water. Is it only filled in summer? Is something broken? We don't know so we carry on.
Bridges new and old.
One would naturally presume there ought to be water flowing through.
Cervera de Pisuerga is not posh or filled with stunning architecture and still I'm already growing fond of this place. We're deep in a valley and surrounded by hills. There's crumbling old buildings, a few rather plain concrete constructions, a small industrial area, a mish-mash of small shops and a central courtyard. Nothing much to impress is there? It feels comfortable, safe, real and homely. I could see myself grabbing a snack and sitting outside a cafe having a drink... I'd have to supply my own imported tea bags.
Cervera de Pisuerga - my kinda place.
We purchase more supplies, take our pictures, walk up the stairs to the curious viewing platform out front of the church, and make sure to notice some of the properties are rather nice, some are rather not nice. By the time we're walking back I'm more than ready for a rest. I like Cervera de Pisuerga, I'd come here again, but would I recommend it? I suppose it's MY kinda town, probably not most other folks though.
The church, and the contemporary viewing platform.
We rest a while back at the chalet and Sharon rations me a snack. She has to ration me as I have no self control and there'd be nothing left for later if I were left unsupervised. I think it's time to hit the road, Sharon's gotten sweet things for desert tonight and they're at risk of being devoured.
While the weather was fine this morning it seems this afternoon is going to be slightly wet. We don our waterproofs and Sharon climbs aboard the rear of my 500 then we depart the campsite. The P-210 heads westerly out of town, heading up into the hills once again.
It's hard to be sure. I suspect it's mostly the weather because to me this area isn't quite as splendid or impressive as the area around Riano. It could be the grey skies or the cold breeze, my mood as the end of this trip approaches, or perhaps it is actually not quite as beautiful as Riano. Nor, I hasten to add, did I expect it to be. Riano has amazing scenery and we were blessed to see it in ideal conditions. If I'd arrived here first I'd have been impressed, unfortunately Riano edges it into a still satisfactory second place.
The weather isn't bad, but it's not ideal.
The road follows the edge of one reservoir, then another. The elevation takes us up into the mist then out into the light rain. I can't "push on" as visibility isn't ideal and the road is wet. We meander, occasionally the sun pops out, then the scenery improves, then the rain returns and while the views may be lovely we can't really see them. A lonesome hotel, a clump of houses, and the occasional truck are the only signs of human activity.
What the hell is there to moan about?
Save for the dams. Essentially if there's a "lake" it's probably not a lake, it'll be an "Embalse", a reservoir. This ongoing theme right through this trip is omnipresent today. I'd like to think of all the "green" energy they might be producing, all the clean water, all the irrigation but I still have Sharon's tale from Riano about the lost villages still ringing in my head.
C'mon it's absolutely beautiful ain't it.
Yup it's an Embalse.
I already know we're going to Guardo, so why does it come as a surprise when we arrive in Guardo once more? The maps told me I would, sat-nav is programmed to go here, and yet I'm like "oh! yeah, there's the supermarket just down there". The CL626 back towards Cervera de Pisuerga is far less interesting and considerably wetter now.
Back at the site Sharon rations me another treat as we settle in for a lazy evening. Admittedly the shower is rather small and cramped but it works as expected. It's all very comfortable although not much is happening. I ought to be bored but this is one advantage of getting older, I can just chill a lot better now.
It has been rather a flat day, but it's all relative you see. I'd still much rather be here riding around reservoirs and mountains in the rain than be at home working and watching bland action movies. I'd rather be here walking around small mountain towns than trudging to Aldi after work. I'd rather be here in a small yet warm and clean chalet than my DIY disaster of a house. It's not been the best day of this trip, but even a flat day on the road is way better than the alternative.
Tomorrow we pack up once more for a short ride through the mountains back to Santander. I hope the weather is better, remember though even if it's not it's still way better than where we'll be in a few more days. Grrrr! Why am I not rich?! Why is Sharon not rich? Why won't someone just give me lots of money? Pffffft.
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Prologue - Some Iberian Mountains
Organising a simple 2 week bike tour should be easy peasy. Watch Ren make this simple task as difficult as possible.
Easing Into The Trip
After plenty of flapping and fretting Ren can calm down and start to enjoy the ride. It's a simple journey today with no purpose other than getting closer to the forthcoming ferry.
Onto The Ferry
Ren takes a simple short trip and turns it into an unnecessarily arduous ride to the ferry. Then all the Dynamic Muppets have to do is get on the ferry. Should be easy - right?
Off The Ferry And Into The Affray
It's all waiting and chaos, confusion and queueing - and that's just getting off the ferry. Despite being in Spain the evening has a very English feel with an English friend.
The Wonder That Is Riano
What started out as a good day turns into a really good day. There is of course a mishap and some moaning, otherwise so far so good. What's the catch, there's gotta be a catch.
Feeling Lucky In Riano
Gird your loins dear readers - Sharon and Ren are accidentally having another "really good day". There's a glitch in The Matrix, buy a lottery ticket, this is a one time only special deal. Normal misery will return soon surely.
Same Peninsula Different Language
It's time to leave the beauty of Riano and head into the "Yellow Country". There's potholes and Ren making an ass of himself. Nothing new then.
Dull Roads And Strange Accommodation
There's plenty of scenery but the ride is not so interesting today. The accommodation is unexpected in both good and bad ways.
Excellence In Its Own Way
More Mountains! The Serra da Estrela provides a wiggly squiggly experience that's similar yet different to many other mountainous regions. The Dynamic Muppets get to ride and relish around.
Dams And Delights
As the Dynamic Muppets start their return leg Portugal has more scenic delights in store. Ren is still facing going cold turkey without tea - poor poor Ren.
Tea Is Tea, Even If It's Poor Tea
The morning is all about the desperate search for real tea. The afternoon would have been fine if Ren's wallet hadn't been opened so vigorously.
A Dull Day Here Is Better Than Home
The surroundings are great, the riding is fun, the town is lovely. This isn't the best day of the trip so far but Ren is just a miserable fool.
Reader's Comments
Upt'North ¹ said :-
You're going home Ren'ster....it's that inner feeling of returning to cold, wet, windy old blighty, who needs that to think about, plus work! Although you did have your "boat butler" to look forward to.
I've started a GoFundMe page for your planned richness Ed, it's called, "Ed needs a break and you're paying for it". It's going well, 38 pence so far, an old can of oil and 3 buttons. After my commission you owe me £9.62. Plus postage on the other items.
You're welcome.
In your grumpiness defence the pictures look a bit meh, pffffffftttttt, OK innit.
That's the problem with experiencing greatness and wonderment, we can become disheartened at the ordinary. But ordinary is the normal, we must embrace mediocrity for it is the norm.
Instead of rationing, I've got a suggestion, just buy more.
Upt.
03/03/2025 09:23:32 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Now there's a thing that I oft times ponder Upt'. Sharon in particular desires the quaint country cottage in the small village in beautiful mountainous surroundings. Putting aside the costs and inconvenience of living is such rural tranquillity - still leaves me with two questions.
1. Do you get used to it? Do you eventually step outside and see the place you live rather than the stunning vistas coming from all of nature's wonders?
2. If you live somewhere really beautiful does travelling to other beautiful places make them less impressive?
The view from my house is of other houses, mixed with phone poles, parked cars and rubbish in the back street. As such it is very easy for me to go somewhere "better". If however I lived in Wooler as you do, with hills and countryside then while I doubt Wooler is the most beautiful place in the world... a lot of places you can go to must seem "less".
Do folks who live in Riano hanker for straight roads, flat farmland, scruffy back streets, and cramped apartment blocks?
03/03/2025 10:51:19 UTC
nab301 said :-
Ren , it all looks good to me ! Did you try jumping up and down on the viewing platform just to see how well it was secured..
Is that "dry" waterway a storm drain?
Nigel
03/03/2025 11:08:54 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
The viewing platform made Sharon a tad nervous. As I value my health and wellbeing I find it best not to trouble her - she might be small but I gotta sleep at some point.
We were of the opinion it would, when filled with water, be some kind of decorative waterway. It formed various geometric shapes through the park rather than a logical storm drain. Check out the satellite view on Google maps
https://maps.app.goo.gl/y1fk7vWhJQPHuhV68...
03/03/2025 11:49:11 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Ren'ster, you ask a very interesting question, if I may be so bold I will answer part 2 first.
No. The majesty of the Dolomites, The solitude of the Picos, The Alps in all their splendour. Even the odd impressive town or city, they are still a welcome change to the norm.
Part 1 is a yes and no. Of course the view becomes the norm, whilst sitting here writing this nonsense I am looking over towards Doddington Moor in the North, there are fields and Turvelaws Farm, then the Moor itself. Neolithic man roamed the Moor and left their marks, it's a good view, but I've looked at it over lunch around 4000 times, so yes it's become the norm.
It's a good norm though and I don't take it for granted. Whenever we travel away from the village for either a few hours or days the views of The Cheviots and Glendale rarely disappoint. It's not unusual for a wow to be heard. Returning from Alnwick upon the Aln last week The Cheviot and Cheviots had fresh snow on them and only yesterday we saw 2 red squirrels whilst walking near Humbleton Hill, it's a beautiful place to live and I'm thankful that that is what we do.
The 20 mile drive to a supermarket or the 100 mile return journey to a hospital is something you get used to and with a Deli, two convenience stores, 5 pubs, butchers and a couple of restaurants we don't need to go anywhere really, although local prices bring out the, "how much"!
I think you'd enjoy it Ed, and if you fancy a ride in the country you don't have to travel to get there.
You can even buy tea bags, proper monkey tea too!
Upt.
03/03/2025 12:50:14 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Upt' - Sharon always says "So, by your reasoning Ren we should live somewhere REALLY awful, like dilapidated tower blocks, industrial units, constant traffic, violence on the streets... Just so we can appreciate more the places we visit". I know she's right and where I live ain't the best but it sure as hell ain't the worst.
Now we are all quite different and I think I'd personally would find Wooler just a tad too remote for my own taste. Mind you I've not been there, perhaps I should go and have a look for myself. You can't hide forever Upt'...
03/03/2025 13:12:30 UTC
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