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Travel StoriesSome Iberian Mountains
The Wonder That Is Riano
Ride Date 17 September 2024
By Ren Withnell
Oh what to do? The Pyrenees would be new to Sharon and I, that which we'd been aiming for and promises an amazing experience. It also would bring the promise of rain, lots of rain. The Picos and possibly Portugal would mean a marginally reduced chance of rain, but we've been to The Picos once before. Oh what to do?
Up early and walking around, pondering our options.
Andy is heading back to The Pyrenees and we like Andy, but we don't want to follow him around like 2 sad and lonely puppies. Plus Andy is the champion of big miles and we are the champions of not many miles and lots of breaks and going slowly. He's a lovely lad but we ride quite differently, it's best we let him crack on in his own inimitable style.
That doesn't preclude us going to The Pyrenees. It's the weather. As soon as I even suggest the oh-so-slightest possibility that it might be just a tiny teeny bit less wet heading west - Sharon subtly, gently lets me know that's her preference. I agree, I, I dunno, I'm just not "feeling" The Pyrenees? As we pack our kit and tent we bid farewell to Andy and soon enough we're heading out the steep driveway from the campsite and onto the roads once again. Keep to the right side of the road Ren.
Gosh. I kinda figured we were in a hilly, maybe mountainous region but not quite as dramatic as this! We're only 3 miles from the campsite and already I need to stop to relish the view. Of course the only place we can park safely is where the views are not quite as impressive, but I make a mental note to say "The N629 is rather nice".
It's a mighty good start to today's ride.
There are corners aplenty. I'm enjoying them and Sharon seems to be at ease on the Z400, she's never far behind. As we ride we rise up and up into the clouds and soon all is misty. I pull in once again so we can apply our waterproofs, only to find I've inadvertently stopped at the crest of - ahem - "Puerto De Los Tornos" at an altitude of 920 meters. I later learn this is almost as high as Scafell Pike, England's highest mountain. I did notice my ears popped. I'm also confused - puerto means port, and ports are usually at sea level?
The mighty Z400 conquers a misty moist mountain.
Back out of the clouds and the day is perfectly pleasant. The air is dry but not too hot, there's sun in the sky although a little hazy, the roads are quiet and we are cruising swiftly at or around the speed limits, usually 90kph although they do like to change them an awful lot here. 40kph? Why? Oh, a regular junction, nothing serious but we have to slow down. Frustratingly they don't seem to be sure whether or not to tell you the "danger" has passed and you can return to 90, or just assume you can work it out for yourself.
Aguilar de Campoo provides a break. The small cafe is very local causing the owner and patrons to cast a curious eye upon us as we enter. None the less they're all very friendly and the owner helps with my broken Spanglish and sources a coffee for Sharon and a Coca-Cola for myself. Communication may be awkward, at least I'm trying.
Someone seems happy with a coffee and a pee break.
We're sauntering through another Spanish village when traffic cones and a hi-viz vest guide us onto the opposite side of the road. No problem, we pass the minor roadworks and carry on. A few turns later and HOLY COW! Some daft prat is on my side of the road!! Ah... no... wait... it's me that's the daft prat on the wrong side of the road. I swerve right and curse myself. Having been sent to the left for the roadworks I'd reverted to habit and remained left. Sharon tells me she was screaming in her helmet at me to get right for ages.
Slightly shaken and berating myself we continue.
Long roads along vast open valleys flow between hills with stone laden tops. There is green here but a lot of the grasses are light brown or blonde, hardy and dry. The houses are a mix of the dilapidated to the crisp and new, sparse and lonesome or huddled in small wide arid townships.
Making our way along the long and lonesome roads or Northern Spain.
The valleys become deeper and the hills become mountains. The road changes from long and straight to corners and bends. We've been on the road now for 4 or more hours now and I'm a little weary but the curves are calling and I must ride them. A swoop here, power out there, feel for the grip as I tip in then await the vanishing point stretching out. Aaah yes, this is why we spent £1100 for a ferry, why I spent weeks fretting over and working on the bikes, this feels good.
Some peaks are entirely covered with trees, some poke out from the trees with grey rock, others seem gravel strewn, some are grassy. The road surface isn't perfect, a mix of orange and tan, worn through to the tar in places, cracks and dips, this ain't no racetrack yet the CB500X is eating it all up merrily and I'm grinning. I'd best wait for Sharon. Oh there she is, I can't help but feel that she must be relishing this too.
I remember Riano from our last trip in 2018 (https://bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=1198). I thought it looked lovely back then and I'm not disappointed this time either. The turning to the campsite is sharp and causes a moment of confusion before we rise steeply, zig-zagging upwards to the site entrance.
Camping De Riano isn't cheap, I've done my research and girded my wallet but still - being relieved of €27 for a patch of grass and the use of a toilet does rather smart. I must say though the view from our tent, once beyond the wire fencing, is spectacular. Expensive, but worth it.
We pitch up and get everything where it belongs. The toilets are as they should be, there's a bar on site AND it's open. The staff are helpful and even allow Sharon to charge her powerbank behind the bar. I think we'll be alright here.
One reason for choosing Camping De Riano is that it's close to the town of Riano. From google maps I can see it's not a large town but there are a handful of shops and as the afternoon becomes evening we walk into said town in search of sustenance. Oh yes we know there's food in the bar but with the sunshine and scenery the walk should be nice and do us both good.
It's not as close nor as easy as I thought. The zig-zag road from the site to the main road adds a number of paces. I hadn't realised the town was built on the side of a steep hill and we have to walk on the gravel beside the main road for some distance before we can access the town. Then there's a myriad of steps and a plethora of walkways before we finally, wearily, find a shop.
Riano is lovely, but steep in places.
It's not much of a shop either. There's not a right lot grabbing our fancy and it ain't cheap either. None the less we're here so we mumble and grunt our way to hot dogs for tea and some weird bread thingies for breakfast. The there's the return walk - which is of course all uphill and therefore much harder. Yes, the campsite is close to the town as the crow flies, but the walk to town and back is not trivial.
As the daytime fades I boil up some water and we cook the hotdogs. A hotdog on a roll isn't particularly tasty, Sharon had the foresight to grab a small pot of salsa at the shop. I wasn't sure how this would taste but my goodness! Hotdog and salsa is indeed very tasty, washed down with some crisp orange juice and our simple evening meal is enjoyable.
Salsa Hotdog - recommended.
With food in our bellies and the washing up done we contemplate going for a drink in the bar. Hmmm, nah, we're settled and we're tired so it's an early night for the pair of us.
Wow! So far we're doing really well. The weather has been perfect for me today, dry but not too hot - Sharon might argue perhaps a tad too cool for perfection. We've enjoyed a mix of easy mountain roads and straights in the valleys. The bikes are working well and our kit hasn't failed us, yet. The scenery has been lovely, particularly here in Riano. We've decided to stay another night here, making tomorrow an easy rest day.
I'm looking forward to a rest day tomorrow. I'm sure we'll have a little ride somewhere.
Advertise here - contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
Prologue - Some Iberian Mountains
Organising a simple 2 week bike tour should be easy peasy. Watch Ren make this simple task as difficult as possible.
Easing Into The Trip
After plenty of flapping and fretting Ren can calm down and start to enjoy the ride. It's a simple journey today with no purpose other than getting closer to the forthcoming ferry.
Onto The Ferry
Ren takes a simple short trip and turns it into an unnecessarily arduous ride to the ferry. Then all the Dynamic Muppets have to do is get on the ferry. Should be easy - right?
Off The Ferry And Into The Affray
It's all waiting and chaos, confusion and queueing - and that's just getting off the ferry. Despite being in Spain the evening has a very English feel with an English friend.
The Wonder That Is Riano
What started out as a good day turns into a really good day. There is of course a mishap and some moaning, otherwise so far so good. What's the catch, there's gotta be a catch.
Feeling Lucky In Riano
Gird your loins dear readers - Sharon and Ren are accidentally having another "really good day". There's a glitch in The Matrix, buy a lottery ticket, this is a one time only special deal. Normal misery will return soon surely.
Same Peninsula Different Language
It's time to leave the beauty of Riano and head into the "Yellow Country". There's potholes and Ren making an ass of himself. Nothing new then.
Reader's Comments
Upt'North ¹ said :-
I think the sun always shines once over the top there Ed. We had exactly the same on our first ride to Portugal (2016?), but we only stopped to take a piccie of the Lake before making our way to Chaves.
All we could hear in the fog going up on the northern side was cow bells, never saw a blummin cow though, we couldn't see more than five yards!
Upt.
26/11/2024 11:30:02 UTC
Bogger said :-
Are you ever quite happy? I think not, probably never will be.
Too hot, too cold, too high, too far, not high enough, too boring, too misty. Need I go on. Bikes and Travels. Bikes and grumbles more like. Looking forwards to the next instalment, keep up the good work.
Bogger
26/11/2024 13:06:08 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Bogger - you wouldn't like it if I was all happy and positive. I'm miserable so you and all the other readers don't have to be. Anyhow I'm only happy when I'm grumpy.
Upt', you'll have to wait and see where we get to. In between that exciting notion there's the ongoing tale of your executive trip. Regrettably you already know that outcome of that.
26/11/2024 14:18:01 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Sounding good so far.... Re being on the wrong side - the typical times to do this are when you've stopped for some reason on the LHS of the road(in LHD countries) and set off again. It's so easy to fall into the tempting trap of a quick shoulder check then off we go. The other one is arrivinving at a T juntion on a one way street and wanting to go left. Lulled into a false sence, again a quick look right and - hopefully it's a quiet road.
26/11/2024 15:40:58 UTC
ROD¹ said :-
When my wife returned to motorcycling a few years ago we invested in helmet to helmet communication. Although the downside is some faffing and the absence of a quiet ride, the upside is that we can communicate things like " You are on the wrong side of the road".
26/11/2024 19:51:41 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Yes Ian, those situations have caught me out in the past. Coming out of petrol stations located in the middle of nowhere has caused me to have a brain fart or two.
ROD - we have talked a lot about intercoms. I'm reluctant because we already have phones and sat-navs and cameras to keep charged and not break and keep safe... hang on the phone is now the sat-nav and the camera too. Perhaps there's room for comms? It would be nice for Sharon to be able to say "OY! IDIOT!" and keep me on the path of righteousness. To say "oooooh look at that nice mountain/valley/lake/village". What I don't desire is a 4 hour conversation about which kind of plants are best suited to damp conditions in the shade.
27/11/2024 12:56:31 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Plantain lilies would be good Ed.
When I went to bluetooth head comms with the Garmin Nav, Er'Indoors wasn't interested in comming up to.
I'm sort of glad, I'm not sure I need constant communication availability in my life, Er'Indoors enjoys her thoughts and I enjoy mine. But have I ever pulled onto the wrong side of the road (?), usually no more than once a day.
Now Ed, about these lilies.
Upt.
27/11/2024 14:05:07 UTC
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Travel StoriesSome Iberian Mountains