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Travel StoriesSome Iberian Mountains
Dull Roads And Strange Accommodation
Ride Date 20 September 2024
By Ren Withnell
That rain that's been threatening all through the trip? It looks like it'll be here quite soon. Pffffft. There's a small part of me that would rather like another rest day but no, this isn't the place or the time. We shall press on to Seia then beyond to the campsite we've been recommended. It looks like there's some mountains to explore there and the site sounds great.
Hmmmm. Spots of rain and dark skies. As we decamp I make a point of placing everything under the shelter of the washing area as thick clouds menace above our heads. A few more droplets are falling as I'm stuffing the tent into it's oversize bag. By the time we're loaded and kitted up it's dark, like dusk dark. We're going to get drenched.
Keeping the kit dry as we pack.
First stop - petrol just down the road - it ain't cheap here in Portugal. Next stop the shop for more supplies - we know there's no shops near tonight's campsite and we know where this shop is and what we can get here. Before remounting the bikes we note the views and ensure our waterproofs are sealed, there's a few more raindrops but we're not wet - yet.
View from the shop. Note the oddly neat pointy hill in the distance. Volcano or mining spoils?
It's 145 miles to the campsite. Unlike my usual impatient and saddlesore self we're making a detour that'll add 20 miles. Silly me. We head east by south east to Miranda Do Douro as there's a "miranda" there. Miranda means viewing point so that'll be 3 Portuguese words I know - go me.
The run to Miranda Do Douro is through gentle hills and soft, dry countryside. The town itself is much of a muchness and I'm glad I've had a long hard look at google streeview because the last junction is only small but a humdinger when it comes to confusing layouts. This whole thing would be made easier if they'd all drive on the correct side of the road though. Blummin foreigners.
The viewpoint is worth the effort. We are looking across the Douro River which forms the border betwixt Portugal and Spain around here. It is clearly a gorge carved by said river but guess what - there's a dam and therefore a reservoir! I wonder what it looked like before the dam, I wonder how deep it is? Sharon is oddly uneasy on the viewpoint with it's glass safety panels, the floor has gaps and you can see beneath you. I'm not scared of heights, I am scared of rapidly approaching floors...
A dam! What a surprise. Excellent vistas though.
Mind you if you turn around this is what you see.
The weather is causing issues. Presently it is warm and dry and we have on our waterproofs. The clouds here are fluffy and light yet we can see dark heavy clouds in the distance. I've no real sense of which way the clouds are going nor which way we are going. We decide it's probably best to remain fully waterproofed. Hmmm.
We're riding the IC5. It is a 2 way single carriageway, seemingly new and smooth and well made. It flows straight in places, through fields and then woodland, then curving between hillsides all dry and dusty and neat as in freshly man made. It cuts through rock walls then bridges random steep dips. The odd village is bypassed. It feels in every way like a new motorway except it's a 2 lane dual direction regular road.
I'm not pressing on, we're cruising at 90kph as that's the limit although some of the locals see it as a recommended minimum. After an hour of this I'm bored, after another half hour I take the wrong turning - not quite intentionally but I suppose my subconscious wanted a change. For no other reason than happenstance we're in Foz do Sabor and I'm seeking out a cafe. I find one but alas it is closed. Humbug.
For someone who's just seen the cafe is closed she looks far too happy.
After another disinteresting half hour on the IP2 I take another random turning in search of, well, anything? Sat Nav offers a cafe in Cogula just up the road. We find the cafe but the only parking I find is on what must be a 25% gradient. This is an ongoing frustration but logically one to be expected if you are a fan of hills and mountains. I park gingerly on the slope giving Sharon firm instruction to "HANG ON!" until I'm parked. I don't actually help her to park, I remain next to her to catch her just in case.
The cafe is another truly local cafe and all the better for it. I get a can of coke, Sharon gets some coffee thing and we strip off and sit outside. Yes, there are clouds up above and there remains the threat of rain but still we are warm and dry. The threat of rain is there and immenent, but it never appears to arrive. Should we remove the waterproofs? Who knows.
As we return to the bikes a local lady walking her dogs engages with the strange foreigners in her quiet village. We must be here to visit the viewing point surely? Her English is broken but a million times better than my Portuguese. Oh no we really must go, it's only 5 minutes walk up this steep road, it's only just been completed and it is for people just like us! Oh great. Now we feel obligated - "obrigado"??
So still wearing waterproofs and carrying our valuables in our tankbags and our helmets we trudge up the steep road. Atop the road a gravel track bears right to a wood and steel walkway that leads up into the trees and then to a platform overlooking the village and the valley. Yes the view is nice, but I wouldn't have been devastated if I hadn't seen it. I bet the lady followed us to ensure we used the viewpoint she is so proud of.
It's fine, I suppose.
There's only 50 miles left to do and they are more interesting now. There are more towns along the road, the hills are becoming larger and there's the mind games of knowing we're nearly there. I'm looking forward to this site and with food on the bike and the promise of another rest day tomorrow I'm feeling good.
Regular readers will know I have ongoing issues of expectation versus reality. Well here we are again, what a surprise. In my mind the recommended campsite will be lush and green, neat and crisp and fresh and smart, nestled close to a pretty village and have a bar and a pool. Keep all this in mind.
As we leave the edge of Seia Sat-Nav is still showing 12km to the site. We ride along 12km of back roads and narrow lanes, between half deserted villages and dried up wasteland. This ain't feeling like Riano, this ain't feeling like The Alps or The Highlands, or The Yorkshire Dales or even The Lakes. There's hills and dried up farmland, ramshackle barns and dilapidated buildings. This ain't the promised land.
Camping Toca De Raposa is down a dusty lane and presents itself as an old farmhouse and barn conversion. The car park is rough gravel and parking the fully laden bikes is trepidatious. It takes a moment to suss where we're going but soon we're within a rather pleasant dining room, tall in that I reckon it's the converted barn, wooden chairs and tables and a bar. A lady, probably a little older than us with greying blond hair and the air of an aging posh hippy greets us.
She speaks excellent English, German, French, Spanish and Portuguese with ease and fluency, switching between them as easily as shifting gears on a bike. Erm, there might not be any camping per se, but we could have a chalet? Too expensive. Oh, no, wait, erm, yeah, how about a shed, one of the volunteer's sheds is empty? €15 per night? Sharon and I exchange glances, this is less than the camping price she just quoted. Can we have a look?
It's a shed. A shed with 2 single beds, a porch area with a table, and not much else. But it's still better than the tent for sure. €15 per night? Oh go on then. And do we want to join them for tea, there's a meal on? €10 per head. Chicken and chips and veg and shredded pork and, well it's a buffet style spread. Stuff it why not, go on then.
It is just a shed, but it is quite a nice shed.
It takes me another moment to work out how to get the bikes to our shed. I take my bike then Sharon's as she's not too sure about the gravel road nor the sharp bend nor the steep bit. We lob our kit into the shed and I get a brew under way out in the porch bit.
It is an odd place Camping De Raposa. The crazy hostess is a character most splendid, personality in abundance mixed in with dizziness and a sharpness too. There's a small pool and a couple of sun loungers -aged and worn but functional. Then there's a serviceable but aging toilet block, there's various larger sheds, smarter and better appointed than ours making up the "chalets", parking spots for campervans, random outbuildings in disorientation, odd walls and peculiar plants.
There does not initially appear to be a bona fide camping area. There are spots here and there where a tent could be pitched and eventually we do find a flat presently grassless space that would be acceptable. There's a dried up old wooded area that has an ancient "camping" sign but you really could not camp there now. We are both bemused and fascinated. There's a story here but we can't see it.
Is this really the camping area? Shirley Knot.
Back at the shed Sharon wants electricity. There are plugs and lights in the shed, albeit somewhat questionable in their compliance with modern regulations. They are there but there are no angry pixies in the wires. I point out to Sharon that at this price we can't expect "hook up" too, I also point out the consumer unit (fuse box) on the back of the shed. Sharon knows how to operate a switch and she's not afraid to do so. Soon our power packs and phones are on charge. Bad girl.
The evening meal is very very good. Chicken on the bone, dishes filled with fries, crisp fresh chopped veg like lettuce and carrots, sauces and mayo, breads and spuds and meats and it's all self service. We eat our fill then return for a little more, not because we are hungry but because it's tasty.
Various others are in the dining area, German, Spanish and accents unknown to my ear are spoken. There's young and mature but I estimate Sharon and I are among the oldest here. I sense just a hint of the alternative, not hippy commune more, err, travellers, more experience seekers rather than regular tourists. This suggests we're "off the beaten track".
As we sit in the porch of our shed drinking tea and reflecting on the day we're joined by a random black and white cat. Without so much as a by your leave he or she is on my lap and making itself comfortable. I feel as though we're on its patch and in its spot. Not long after it departs my lap in favour of Sharon's lap. We discuss as our feline host sniffs around for food. It's an odd place is Camping De Raposa, good in many ways, others not so, certainly not what we expected.
Make yourself at home why don't you?
Today has been another transport day. Looking back now as I write this and viewing the route via streetview I can't see why I wasn't more enthralled. I suspect in particular the IC5 bypassing all the towns and being a 2 lane no central reservation "motorway" took out all the interesting stuff. Great for getting places, not so great at being interesting. I am chuffed with our shed and it is nice to have a real bed even if I'm still in a sleeping bag. Sharon turns out the light that we probably shouldn't be using.
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Prologue - Some Iberian Mountains
Organising a simple 2 week bike tour should be easy peasy. Watch Ren make this simple task as difficult as possible.
Easing Into The Trip
After plenty of flapping and fretting Ren can calm down and start to enjoy the ride. It's a simple journey today with no purpose other than getting closer to the forthcoming ferry.
Onto The Ferry
Ren takes a simple short trip and turns it into an unnecessarily arduous ride to the ferry. Then all the Dynamic Muppets have to do is get on the ferry. Should be easy - right?
Off The Ferry And Into The Affray
It's all waiting and chaos, confusion and queueing - and that's just getting off the ferry. Despite being in Spain the evening has a very English feel with an English friend.
The Wonder That Is Riano
What started out as a good day turns into a really good day. There is of course a mishap and some moaning, otherwise so far so good. What's the catch, there's gotta be a catch.
Feeling Lucky In Riano
Gird your loins dear readers - Sharon and Ren are accidentally having another "really good day". There's a glitch in The Matrix, buy a lottery ticket, this is a one time only special deal. Normal misery will return soon surely.
Same Peninsula Different Language
It's time to leave the beauty of Riano and head into the "Yellow Country". There's potholes and Ren making an ass of himself. Nothing new then.
Dull Roads And Strange Accommodation
There's plenty of scenery but the ride is not so interesting today. The accommodation is unexpected in both good and bad ways.
Reader's Comments
Upt'North ¹ said :-
I kinda know what you mean. Some days are just a bit flat. Mountains that aren't really mountains, greenery that isn't, closed Caffs. Although it does sound like you dropped on at the site.
I understand there is an electron bill outstanding.
But.....it's better than a work day in Manchestakistan or a gardening day in Wooler.....no?
Upt.
14/01/2025 10:45:26 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Surely there's nothing better than sitting in a small bedroom while trying to understand something you don't understand, looking out on the mizzle, waiting for the neighbours to put the heating on in the hope some warmth may trickle through the walls, and looking forward to a tin of cheap sausage and beans?
I am very much living la vida loco here.
14/01/2025 14:21:11 UTC
Bogger said :-
I fully understand about being somewhat underwhelmed. But the thing is, even on an underwhelming type of a day it's still great to be on a bike.
Bogger
14/01/2025 15:25:49 UTC
nab301 said :-
Ren, it all looks great to me , I love the contrasting photos between the viewing point with the dam and the apartment block .
Nigel
14/01/2025 16:20:09 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Well said Bogger me'lad. Although for us it's a trip that enthuses the cells, not day rides. I mean, they just last a day. I'm hoping to explore some of Yorkshire this year with Er'Indoors, it's an area we tend to pass through and stops are normally limited to 30 minutes at Wetherby services.
I can't see us riding abroad this year, Er'Indoors is making me fly somewhere.
Pffffffftttttt.
Upt.
14/01/2025 16:21:25 UTC
ROD¹ said :-
I am also with Bogger.
Although it is nice to ride new interesting and challenging roads, it just nice to ride any road on a bike.
On the subject of camping sites which may not be to your liking, if your trip is not planned out for each day, you can just move on the next morning.
14/01/2025 18:28:23 UTC
Bogger said :-
Oh forgot to mention. It's nice to have a pussy on your lap occasionally.
Bogger.......What?
14/01/2025 22:39:38 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
So let me get this straight. You're all saying you'd rather be out riding your motorcycle - even if the road is not perfect - than being stuck at work or doing the weekly shop? Anyone would think you're some kind of "enthusiast" or something.
There's no plans for an abroad trip this year at BAT towers too Upt'. There are already fixed plans for one Scottish trip and the hope of an invasion of some islands up there too in another trip. As for Yorkshire - there's some good riding and pretty places to see up (down to you) there.
nab301 - I always thought of The Pyramids as being way out in the remote desert, down a sand drifted road, with nothing more than a few tents to cater for the brave adventurers who'd come to visit. Then I found Google maps - check the link.
https://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Great+Pyramid+of+Giza/@30.0154533,31.06804...
15/01/2025 08:05:10 UTC
KiwiJeff said :-
Ren it's worse than you think. The below picture is taken from the Marriot Mena House Hotel breakfast terrace it is a spectacular place to have breakfast! For a moment there I thought you were planning a trip to Egypt to escape the ice outside your door! If you do go take the old CBF125 it would fit right in down there with all the other worn out singles plodding around. You may have to have Sharon on the back and borrow a couple of kids to put on the tank to really fit in.
15/01/2025 22:00:53 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
You know - I am fascinated and curious about Egyptian history - but from those I've spoken to who've been to Cairo I'm not feeling the urge to go. Firstly it's a big city and I'm not interested in cities, secondly I'm told it's rather "busy". I think a trip through the desert would be worthwhile, I've never been to a desert and I reckon the weather might be drier than Bolton.
Alas it's not going to happen just yet. I need someone to give me LOTS of money so I don't have to work and I can dedicate myself to riding motorcycles and writing my blog. Pffffft.
16/01/2025 08:15:29 UTC
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Travel StoriesSome Iberian Mountains