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Travel StoriesSome Iberian Mountains
Off The Ferry And Into The Affray
Ride Date 16 September 2024
By Ren Withnell
Goodness me! I've really slept, deep, comfortable, settled sleep. It is hard to gain any sense of time at all in the cabins without windows and being pitch dark. I can see it's 0630 by the clock but my body is lacking all other references and it's rather confusing. I could happily go back to sleep but I shan't, I need to keep my body clock in sync. Sharon appears to be in the deepest of slumbers so I leave her to it and take a walk.
There's nothing but sea outside. We're not due into port until 1530 (Spanish time, GMT +2, BST +1), that's 1430 "boat time" which operates on the same time as the UK, presently BST. There's still another 8 hours to kill.
It's quite pleasant outside but there's nothing to see but sea.
I wander around. I "accidentally" disturb Sharon and we go for breakfast. We have a chat with some other bikers. We wander around. We go back to the cabin and have another nap. I wander around. We grab another brew. I find something to worry about - the weather. I honestly don't mind being on the ferry, it's a tad boring but I'm not going stir crazy. I'm fine I'm OK, I'm just ready to be getting going.
As the coast finally comes into view we clear the cabin and wait in the restaurant with many other motorcyclists. "All vehicle passengers on Deck 4, make your way to your vehicles". We're chatting with a few other riders, and waiting. "All vehicle passengers on Deck 3, make your way to your vehicles". We knew, we'd been told when we parked the bikes on Deck 2 that we'd be the last off. It is getting boring now though and I'm wondering if we'll ever get off.
"All vehicle passengers on Deck 2, make your way to your vehicles". Much like the military's "hurry up and wait" from boring waiting we're thrown into chaos. Hundreds of riders with kit and bags and helmets block the stairwells and the lifts, when we reach Deck 2 there's straps being thrown around and engines revving like crazy. I can't for the life of me suss out these bloody straps, finally when I do I mount my bike to find another hidden strap on the crash bar.
RUSH RUSH RUSH RUSH!! Chaos down on Deck 2
No. Stop it. No. Don't flap. There is no rush and rushing things causes errors. Some bikes are already off, others are pushing around, others are cussing the straps and their luggage. I calmly remove the hidden strap, ensure Sharon's ready to go and we finally and carefully and sensibly join the throngs - straight off the boat and straight into another que for passport control.
Wait, move a bit, wait... repeat. When we clear passport control I'm glad I've done my research. Sat-Nav wants me to turn out the port just after passport control, you can't and it's OK I've been warned. There's the best part of a mile of broad, empty dock and industrial estate riding following the docks, confusing lost nonsensical cones, paint roundabouts in haphazard disarray, unnecessary corners, it all feels fudged and temporary. Luckily I'd seen a video about this a few weeks back.
"Keep to the right keep to the right keep to the right..." I have to admit it is just a little bit easier now I've been abroad a few times, but it still messes with my head.
Tonight's campsite is already planned. As such I know there's no shops near to the campsite so our first stop is Lidl. I screw up the roundabout by looking right rather than left, I am alive by pure luck - concentrate BOY! We grab supplies and I gingerly lead us back onto the Spanish roads, with fear in my heart.
I calm as we get onto the motorway, I take a deep breath and try to bring my heartrate down. Yes I'm going to be OK and we're all good. Actually - the sun is shining, the bike feels fine, we haven't got too far to ride and, oh yes, I'm on holiday!! Wow, yes, oh my, I'm here, I'm actually physically here in reality - COOL! Steady on, I'm at risk of enjoying myself here and that will never do.
Off the motorway we take the N629 southbound then there's an easy ride to Ramales de la Victoria and our campsite that's out of town - Camping La Barguilla. Save for a short steep driveway into the campsite La Barguilla's initial impressions are good with a smart reception and a charming young lady who helps with my Spanish in rather good English.
Good news! I had an inkling, a suspicion, and a hope that our friend Andy will be here at the site. Andy's FaceAche posts have previously made onto here - in particular his Scotland trip. He's a suvvenor, he's the real deal when it comes to big miles and has spent the last week heading for The Alps - but he decided the weather was bad there so he's come to Spain instead. Since he was in the area he's joined us here on site.
How did we find out? The receptionist said "oh, I sink your friend is 'ere, 'e say hope 2 moto, man woman, here soon, that you?" I'm chuffed to bits, we like Andy and it'll be really odd, really good to catch up with him in a different country! There he is, already pitched and settled and he greets us warmly. It feels most peculiar being in a foreign country with a friend whom we've only seen in British contexts.
It truly is good to catch up with Andy. As we pitch the tent and set up the gear he's telling tales of his trip here and bringing us up to date about his new house in that there little village of London. His BMW GS1250 is already up for replacement, I mean it's 3 or 4 years old now and has way too many miles on it. He's had his first puncture too and needed help in sussing out the Stop-n-Go tyre plugger.
2 English blokes in Spain with lashings and lashings of hot tea.
The site has a restaurant bar, but it's closed. This is what, September? Apparently "high season" is very short in Spain, July and August. September is "right at the end" of the season and many campsites are already winding down (we'll keep on relearning this later). However as a complimentary nod to those "hardy" souls still out there camping in such terrible off season weather (18C, dry and still) the bar is unstaffed but open and there's free coffee and tea and soft drinks on a table for the taking. This we do as we admire the surroundings.
Surroundings! The campsite is up to scratch and nice enough, trees aplenty but no grass (again we'll keep on relearning this later), and on a hillside. The pitch isn't level but we've experienced far worse. From the restaurant there's a few impressive rocky mountain tops rising between trees. You know what, I dare not mention these words, but I'm OK, I'm alright, I'm liking this. I could almost be happy. Almost.
Yeah, this ain't a bad place to start our Spanish adventure.
As the evening draws in we cook our food, we drink tea aplenty and sit idly in the camp chairs. The air is cooling and it's time for a thick jumper but it doesn't feel like we'll freeze in the tent tonight. I'm quite content, the only quandary, and it's a nice quandary to have, is deciding which way we're heading tomorrow.
The Pyrenees remains enticing and unexplored to Sharon and I. Andy reports some excellent roads and scenery, backing up other's observations. However all the forecasts are bad, be it Pyrenees or Picos or even Portugal, however Picos and Portugal seem less bad. I'm postponing the decision until the morning.
Bedtime at Camping La Barguilla
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Prologue - Some Iberian Mountains
Organising a simple 2 week bike tour should be easy peasy. Watch Ren make this simple task as difficult as possible.
Easing Into The Trip
After plenty of flapping and fretting Ren can calm down and start to enjoy the ride. It's a simple journey today with no purpose other than getting closer to the forthcoming ferry.
Onto The Ferry
Ren takes a simple short trip and turns it into an unnecessarily arduous ride to the ferry. Then all the Dynamic Muppets have to do is get on the ferry. Should be easy - right?
Off The Ferry And Into The Affray
It's all waiting and chaos, confusion and queueing - and that's just getting off the ferry. Despite being in Spain the evening has a very English feel with an English friend.
The Wonder That Is Riano
What started out as a good day turns into a really good day. There is of course a mishap and some moaning, otherwise so far so good. What's the catch, there's gotta be a catch.
Reader's Comments
nab301 said :-
Apart from the long ferry journey , the possible bad weather and riding on the right... sounds like the beginning of a good trip!
Nigel
19/11/2024 11:49:17 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Oh you little tease.
Yes the trip back to the bike never changes. We always seem to be last too.
Was that an exploding bag you had with you Ed? It looks like you sat down and....caboom!
When we were on the Spain ferry in 2022 all the bikes were parked in a line and the staff (it's nice to have staff) tied them in the rows with one long strap and air bag type cushions over the seats. It was probably a different ferry of course. It worked well enough.
I'm betting on Potugal. I'll go all in, £0.25p on the nose.
Upt.
19/11/2024 12:50:08 UTC
ROD¹ said :-
I have only been on that ferry crossing once. That was a few years ago, and I believe it is much more expensive these days.
I know I will be in a minority, but I prefer the ride down through France. I find the ride just as quick and not as boring or as expensive as the ferry.
19/11/2024 14:13:42 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Rod. What isn't expensive? And if it's cheap they'll tax it until it isn't.
The ferry to Ijmuiden from Newcastle is around £1000.00 now return for two, a bike and your food.
The alternative for us would be at least two more overnights, with the associated costs plus about 600 miles of fuel.
As for riding through France to get somewhere else, it can become tiresome, having said that we did enjoy our time there on this trip. The French drivers are a breath of fresh air compared to the rest of the EU. The Gendarmes are still ever present and eager though. We got talking to a couple of blokes from old blighty on sportsbikes in Freudenstadt, Germany; on the way there they had collected several hundred euros of fines.
Upt.
19/11/2024 16:28:26 UTC
ROD¹ said :-
Upt'. Yes I am sure I am in the minority, and I am not criticizing the travel preferences of others.
On the subject of cost. The Dover return crossing is about £100.00, the fuel cost for the extra 600 miles at 50 mpg is around £70.00, and overnight costs for two nights could be from £30.00 on campsites to £400.00 in hotels.
19/11/2024 20:12:07 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
I don't think you are Rod, but riding from the Borders to the tunnel is nothing to relish. It's just 50 miles to North Tyneside. The last time we did the tunnel I think it was about £40 one way for two and the bike. Cost wise, I agree it would probably be cheaper to ride the A1, A1M, M1, M25 etc, but, pffffffftttttt. Meh. Like you say it would depend on the amount of stops and how you travel.
I think the costs riding through France would add up pretty quickly from experience, Hotel for 2 people for ? nights, plus all other costs there and back? It wouldn't be cheap. Camping for 1 and eating alphabeti spaghetti, yes it could be done cheaply.
I think when we did the ferry to Bilbao two years ago it was also £1000 or thereabouts inclusive. It was bloody boring. But the free wine eased the pain.
Upt.
20/11/2024 00:04:51 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
There's costs, and there's time, and there's fun.
From Calais to Pamplona (just over the Pyrenees into Spain) is 700 miles according to Google maps. Now our friend Andy could do that in 2 days but Sharon and I? Hell no! As stated many times before we are NOT hard ass big miles riders - as is evident from our travel tales. We could, if absolutely necessary, do 350 miles in a day. This would definitely NOT be our idea of a pleasurable and enjoyable holiday. It would be a trial by sore ass and boredom.
I'm sure there are those among you who think nothing at all of 7 hours in the saddle, relishing the wind, soaking in the changing scenery, feeling the thrum of the engine below you and entering a Zen like state of man and machine in perfect harmony. I envy you, but that doesn't happen for myself. I like to ride a bit, stop to look, ride slowly to enjoy a view, maybe a little play through some twisty bits, sit outside a cafe drinking tea, then another few miles to see what else is going on.
20/11/2024 08:20:17 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Time and fun, and as always the cost.
More time and fun equals more cost unfortunately.
Another point of course is where you are heading for in that time allowance. We would never have visited Holland, Belgium or Luxembourg on that recent journey, maybe Germany too if we hadn't used the Ijmuiden ferry. It just wouldn't have made good trip sense.
Holland was meh, but the other three were delightfully splendiferous. Good roads, mainly..., nice folk, nice towns etc.
Upt.
20/11/2024 09:45:15 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
But more importantly Ed.
Where can I buy one of them splendid exploding bags.
20/11/2024 09:46:36 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Is this the exploding bag you're referring to Upt'?
20/11/2024 10:39:07 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Yes. Seems a magnificent invention.
Just caboom and hey presto you're unpacked.
I'm guessing you need a certain Madame Du Soleil to prepare for pre caboom, i.e. packing.
Upt.
20/11/2024 12:35:30 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Alas, and alack. I fear you may have been misguided Upt'. Regrettably and unfortunately it's a regular old bag, 80 litres or 120 litres expanded. It is big enough to put Sharon in as hand luggage - we know, we've tried.
Would it not be splendidly marvellous to have the exploding self-setup-ing bag?! Pull a rip cord, stand well back and KABOOM! As if by magic the tent lands upright, pegged, and with the sleeping kit already laid out neatly. Next to the tent just as it lands the cooking kit and the food and the chair fall into position and ready to go. If I could create such a system I'd be wealthy! Wealthy enough to use swish hotels and not need all this nonsense... I'd be just like YOU!
20/11/2024 14:14:45 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Touché.
Although be under no illusion, I'm not rich, I just have many credit cards.....
And identities.
Rod.
20/11/2024 15:02:46 UTC
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Travel StoriesSome Iberian Mountains