The outside of a motorbike engine seen up close near the exhaust


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Upt'North ¹ said :-
I agree with you Ian, I always used oem on the Pan. No problems.
But the VSTROM is known to have a weak rear brake and this seems to be the answer, we'll see.
I actually think the rear brake at the moment doesn't add to the relaxed feel. I like to slow the bike down for bends etc where just minimal retardation is required with just a dab on the rear, but on the Strom it does nowt and you end up going for the front too.
It's not a massive issue, it just requires a change to my normal bad habits.
Ian.....I think he's picking on you too, this site is working better than ever for me. I think Ed's great.

05/03/2023 13:29:57 UTC
No-one in particular said :-
Flattery will get you everywhere....

05/03/2023 14:02:31 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
While it surely appears as such Ian I regret to inform you I do not have a vendetta against your and your technology!

As for Upt' saying nice things about me? Now I am truly scared. Upt' - a man of your calibre and training shouldn't need ANY brakes, especially with a torquey V-Twin's engine braking. I too am rather fond of the most gentle touch of the rear brake to fine tune my retardation. I hear many riders claim they never use the rear, for myself I seldom touch the front.

Sharon on the other hand just doesn't appear to use brakes at all. We know she's only tiny and on a comparatively light motorcycle - but still at over 30,000 miles on the 250 we've never replaced the pads and they still look new front and rear. We've never really adjusted the chain either. I'm slowly but surely coming to the conclusion she's either a witch or a far far better, smoother and road-reading rider than I'll ever be.

I put it down to my good training...

06/03/2023 17:24:52 UTC
Glyn said :-
It would appear that the attention I have lavished on 2 Suzuki's recently has not gone unnoticed by my Kawasaki ZZR100. I believe it has had a bout of jealousy because when I attempted to start it after 2-3 months of idleness it stubbornly refused to play. Not a single cylinder fired. Now it takes ages to uncover the engine but I did so only to find 4 wet plugs. All sparked once dried out but my analysis is that, such is the state of tune of the Kwaka, it is very fussy about the age of the fuel fed to it. So after I attempted to remove the airbox by removing the 8mm bolts (deep into the box) that the socket fell off the end of the extension and rattled down inside the carbs. It's so easy to put a wrap of tape round the socket to stop this happening but I didn't do that. As I don't have another socket it will have to wait a day or two before I can get the remaining airbox screws out to start looking for the escapee item. It will probably be unwise to twist the throttle until said socket is found.

07/03/2023 08:59:42 UTC
Glyn said :-
Glyn's been lucky, spot the socket. I have removed the carbs and cleaned them. There was nothing nasty in the float bowls but the float heights were a mile off the 17mm spec in the Haynes Manual. I duly bent the tangs but the needle valves jammed on the sides. Trawling through the owners club blogs, I find it reported that the Manual has a miss-print and the float height should read 13mm.
Posted Image

07/03/2023 11:34:15 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
The Haynes book of lies as it's often known. "Assembly is the reverse of disassembly" Oh yes?

Actually the one bit that is normally correct is the method of fitting tubed tyres, which works much better than the way most people try to do it. But then that was provided by Avon if I remember correctly.

Can't you download a pdf of the manufacturer's book somewhere?

07/03/2023 12:10:06 UTC
Glyn said :-
I generally find the Haynes ok but quoting the float heights out by 4 mm is a bit naughty. I'm sure the reason for failing to start is old fuel. It's no more than 4 months old at the most but, even though it doesn't smell off, nor is it discoloured at all, I notice that it doesn't evaporate as quickly as I expect it to.

07/03/2023 18:19:38 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
It's phase separation apparently
90 days is the sweet spot for E10, but this will vary if it's stored in warm humid environments.
10% Ethanol, if that's what you've got in, is highly hygroscopic, both absorbing water and enabling whatever it's blended into to abosrb more water. Ethanol doesn't "reach out and grab" water from the air, but it does make it easier for the water to be absorbed by the mixture.
Many will say, they've never had an issue with E10, but it's common availability is relatively recent, plus these folk may have used their petrol engines before the 90 day sweet spot and topped their tanks off after use.
I can't see why the float height would change in storage and I suspect your fuel is now a lovely water enriched mess.
That's unless I'm barking up the wrong tree and you filled with best quality super unleaded and treated with stabiliser before storage?

07/03/2023 23:11:18 UTC
Glyn said :-
I only ever use E5 in my bikes. I took the GT380 out for a run before it goes home Tomorrow and was surprised at how well it goes. Very quick and stops well with the single front disc. Much better ride than the TS250.

08/03/2023 19:22:47 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I wonder how a fuel stabiliser works? Google...!

09/03/2023 08:42:52 UTC
Glyn said :-
And the next patient please!
At least its got valves in the Cylinder Head Ed. One problem is that the seat comes up to my chest, the second problem is a complicated electrical failure and the third problem is that the (mostly understanding) Mrs Glyn did not want another bloody old bike in the garage, she's out at the moment. I'm hoping she doesn't notice.
Posted Image

09/03/2023 12:23:30 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Ooooooooohh that's so much better! CCM - made in Bolton that. Proper hooligan machine you have there - even fitted with SuperMoto wheels. You do realise if you're going to test it you're going to have to go everywhere on the back wheel only, back it into the corners then drift it out with your leg stuck out and then make ridiculously loud flatulent noises at 0130 to annoy the neighbours? Anything else will not do you know, there are rules.

I can only judge you on your friends and acquaintances Glyn. Having seen the machines you're being asked to work upon I have come to the conclusion that you're a headbanger, a proper nutter, or you're hanging out with wrong types.

09/03/2023 15:59:56 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Just read some advice on BP site Ed, everyday's a school day.
Regardless of your E, they say one month is tops for storage in a vented vehicle tank. Their advice is to fill to about half for storage purposes and then fill with fresh before starting, this would clean the old fuel.

09/03/2023 16:02:34 UTC
Glyn said :-
That is interesting Up't. That 50% top up might work in the tank but probably not in the float bowls. Ed, any idea how I get on a bike that's taller than me? I wouldn't consider myself to be a headbanger but happy to bow to your superior character understanding skills. Being a headbanger is quite an enviable badge for a fella of my age. I've just had a message from the CCM owner who says that the carbs overflow everywhere. Interesting to get twin carbs on a single cylinder engine.

09/03/2023 17:29:42 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I'll ask Sharon - she knows about bikes being taller than her. My recommendation would be to get the long suffering Mrs Glyn to hold you and the bike up as you get on. Once you're going you'll be fine as long as you don't need to stop. When you get back home stop by the wall and lean against it - until Mrs Glyn can come rescue you. Anyhow a hooligan like you? Just do a wheelie dismount - easy.

Twin carbs - 4 port engine allows 2 inlet ports and therefore 2 carbs. I'm not sure but it would seem more logical to fit one big carb then a one-into-two manifold but still - "MY single's got TWO carbs so it MUST be faster!".

09/03/2023 19:26:41 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
I seem to remember that there have been some single cylinder bikes with 2 carbs that use one for low speed / small throttle openings and bring in the other at bigger openings. A bit like the old Weber DCOE twin choke carbs but obviously with one carb per inlet tract. Or was I dreaming?

10/03/2023 09:53:36 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Ian, like all "new" ideas they've usually got history. From memory I think some 80's Honda and Yamaha thumpers had twin carbs, plus didn't someone sell a twin port in/out head for RE.
I'm sure they would have been used way before that too hut my old Brit Bike knowledge ain't great.

10/03/2023 11:27:30 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Thinking about it Ian, just like the DCOE's, I wonder if they worked at different rpm, maybe they were tuned to spread the power/torque on what we're relatively high revving singles. Someone will know.

10/03/2023 11:30:28 UTC
nab301 said :-
F 650 Bmw's (Rotax engined) had twin carbs ( both opening together) before going injection. I believe it was to improve low speed fuelling, I did own one and it was smooth low down. A quick google suggests two small carbs keep intake velocity higher than one large carb thereby improving fuel atomisation at lower speeds.
I've owned 4 cyl cars with two twin choke side draft weber carbs , and they're not 2 stage carbs , it's basically one carb per cylinder . I've also owned cars with one twin choke down draft weber carb where there are two butterflies and these work as a two stage carb. Single choke at small throttle openings, both butterflies opening at large throttle openings.

10/03/2023 21:07:00 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Hi Nigel, you're right about the Webers. It's a long time since I had any dealings with them.

11/03/2023 10:03:13 UTC

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