Repair-Chat
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Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
When you say "Bank 1 sensor"... what is a Bank 1 sensor? Lambda on the exhaust? Presumably a V4/6/8 engine? What car, what engine. Give us a bleeding clue!
20/11/2024 09:11:36 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Oooooo, who put your knickers in a twist. You rude boy.
It is a 1.0 three cylinder non turbo petroleum spirit engine fitted within a VAG product.
Bank 1, don't blame me I didn't invent the name, is a sensor in the exhaust nearest to the engine.
Bank 2, is the cat sensor.
Bank 1 and 2 have been changed today. 1 for the second time. All reset.
We'll see I spose but I predict it will reilluminate my life shortly.
Pffffffftttttt.
20/11/2024 12:44:20 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
VAG huh, explains the curious naming. They called the sensors Bank 1 and Bank 2 and are trying to sell a 1.0 3-banger as a V8... remember dieselgate?
20/11/2024 14:25:09 UTC
nab301 said :-
Upt , you really need someone with a decent scan tool that can read live data (not just fault codes) and interpret said data , eg , fuel trims , check and confirm that the lambda sensors are switching correctly etc etc. It seems that the days of parts substitution are behind us. Lots of cars appear also to have wiring harness issues , corrosion etc which can cause all sorts of issues.
Nigel
20/11/2024 17:15:27 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Can't disagree Nigel.
If the light reappears I will consider it being turned off.
But it would be good to know from anyone with real life experience of the same.
You never know, it might stay off.
Pffffffftttttt.
20/11/2024 20:47:00 UTC
nab301 said :-
Hopefully you're sorted , apologies , looking at my post I'm coming across a bit preachy... but I'm sure you know what I meant. If it is the lambdas do you not need them for the MOT test ?
As an aside I had time on my hands earlier this year and participated in an Automotive electrics diagnostics course , the profile of which seemed to indicate among much more that it covered computer/ sensor diagnostics , unfortunately while refreshing (in depth ) electrical theory was very interesting we spent a lot of time working with ye old points operated ignition distributors... I think I was the only participant who had actually worked with them in the past. I saw a scan tool once and diagnosed a cam sensor fault(disconnected) but that was it!
Nigel
21/11/2024 14:15:33 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
You raise an interesting point me o'd mucka. You weren't preachy either.
Now Ed, he's preachy.
I will consult my local mechanical mot'ing genius before I do owt with the proposed turn off, if indeed it should be required.
I wonder how many o'd motors will end up in EML heaven with nowt up with them.
Strange world innit.
Upt.
21/11/2024 16:16:32 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
If you want to get to grips with modern auto electrical wizardry can I recommend you go to YouTube and seek out "Diagnose Dan". He's a big Dutch chap who takes you through the jobs he gets in his workshop.
You obviously won't have his scan and test tools but the insight you gain as to how things work will help your own knowledge and therefore help form theories as to what the hell is up with a car.
I would buy a proper scanner... But I realised I'm far too miserly
21/11/2024 19:09:55 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
"Buy a proper scanner"?
In my experience the best tools in the world don't work when there's a tool using them.
Obviously watching others and not myself.
Walk on, nothing to see here.
Upt.
21/11/2024 20:25:11 UTC
Glyn said :-
The TZR is coming along slowly. The left fairing was in 3 separate parts due to the accident that had broken the original footrests. I have a system; firstly use plasterers 50mm scrim tape across the back of the broken joint and massage epoxy (JB Weld) into it. Then cut pieces of copper into strips and drill 4mm holes into them. Using a Weller soldering gun, heat each piece until it melts into the plastic pushing molten plastic up through the holes. Then fill, file , sand and paint. This “stitches” the panel back together rather well. The picture is the smaller break at the bottom of the panel before the filling etc. I use copper for several reasons; it’s easy to work with using tin snips, it’s pliable so easily bent into shape and it conducts heat easily especially if dabbed with some older during the heating process.
07/12/2024 17:17:55 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Excellent tip Glyn, although of limited use to me as my bikes have very little plastic on them!
That repair looks as thoug it's on the outside - I assume the scrim tape you mention is on the inside. I would have thought the reverse might be better then you could sand the tape / JB weld off for refinishing.
08/12/2024 10:27:06 UTC
Glyn said :-
Yes Ian, the scrim tape is on the inside and, apart from a V cut in the crack, it’s bonded to the surface. The stitch bars are melted below the outer surface and so makes sanding with a block easier. Simply fill in the holes and it’s easy to see when the surface is flat.
08/12/2024 19:18:48 UTC
Glyn said :-
In the picture you can see the stitches melted in, there’s no filler applied yet. The stitches are about .3mm below the surface.
08/12/2024 19:34:22 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
It ain't purdy when we see it like the picture - we need to see the finished product Glyn. I've seen advertised these "plastic welding kits" that heat up little metal "W"s and you knit the crack with them, similar to your solution.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195045414066...
09/12/2024 08:11:24 UTC
Glyn said :-
Are you advocating the expenditure of funds Ed? Shame on you, my method costs nothing but a bit of scrap copper pipe and some electricity. Interesting tool that though and I’m sure it works just fine. Finished panel pictures to follow but these repairs do take up a lot of time.
11/12/2024 07:24:29 UTC
Glyn said :-
Here it is, primered but not top coated. The masking tape is still on the hinges. There’s a bit more flatting required and a larger repair in the middle of the panel to be completed. This actual repair is on the underside of the panel and not easy to see when fitted but still has to be acceptable.
11/12/2024 07:32:11 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Glyn - I would never recommend spending money - unless it's someone else's money then I'm really good at that. I figure my point is that the notion of knitting a cracked panel back together with hot bits of metal seems well established. For the less imaginative there's off the shelf solutions, for you there's bits of copper and a soldering iron.
As per usual your finished homework appears up to scratch. Carry on...
11/12/2024 08:49:53 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Looks great Glyn.
11/12/2024 10:12:07 UTC
nab301 said :-
I've had some success with smaller repairs recently on the likes of an indicator lamp housing that had been snapped off ,using the superglue and bread soda method,
Nigel
16/12/2024 14:37:39 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Yes I used that method on some fairing lugs for the Tiger and it seemed to work well. To avoid confusion, bread soda is often known as bicarbonate of soda, sodium bicarbonate or raising powder. I suspect any fine grained powder would do the job.
16/12/2024 15:42:12 UTC
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