Camchain and tensioner seen up close in a cutaway bike engine


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Snod said :-
I have seriously considered zip ties but it seems they will be very difficult to thread under the tray. I could take the tray off and set them up underneath I suppose, but it seems like going a bit far even to me. Plus I start a new job on Monday and am feeling slightly less poor than normal.

But am I letting the BAT readership down by spending money? Maybe I'll have a potter around in the garage, see if inspiration hits. Actually I do have some ribbon here that came as packaging for a "snuddie" (saves on heating costs, see) and that would be reusable, I could undo it and tie it up again. Hmmmm...

21/10/2022 11:34:00 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Snod, you do it so we don't have to. Ta bud.

21/10/2022 11:34:19 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Is this the one? (link) - if so it'd be a doddle to make something to do the job. I don't think any of my bikes has had an OE battery strap - bits of wood, inner tube rubber bands, bent wire etc have all worked perfectly well.

21/10/2022 14:31:00 UTC
Snod said :-
That's the normal short one, but the longer one is just the same in construction.

Unfortunately though I have bought one since Sherlock unblocked my account. I can only justify it to myself by saying it's for safety and not as wasteful as Ed deciding he fancies nights away in a luxurious hotel..

21/10/2022 15:10:07 UTC
Glyn said :-
Fuel tank repair with Kreem resin.
I too have read some horror stories about the resins not adhering to the inside of the fuel tanks and peeling off. I have also read of some people having reported great results when sealing a leaking tank with this type of product. My reasons for giving it a try were fairly simple;
The best thing to do is buy a brand new tank. This is not an option for a 31 year old bike as parts not available. After that I thought about a used item from E-bay. Nearly all tanks for sale were the wrong colour, sporting dents and / or you could clearly see the rust inside the fuel cap when zooming in on the pictures. If I was Allen Millyard I would make one out of and old tin tray, but I'm not him. The leak was under the front bracket and not really weldable. I did use J.B.Weld epoxy on the outside but the fuel still leaked out. I took a visit to my local trusted bike shop and was told they had used the Kreem resin with excellent results every time but the instructions needed to be rigidly followed. There are similar cheaper resin products on the market but a risky purchase especially given the length of time it takes to do this and the hassle if it all comes off. So, for £39 I bought the Kreem product and read the labels carefully (with my recently implanted optical lenses and therefore without spectacles after 30 years of dependancy). First off, after draining the tank and removing the cap, fuel level sensor and fuel tap then bunging the holes you wash the tank thoroughly with fairy liquid and water. immediately after, flush it with clean water and then fill the tank with the supplied etching and rust removing part of the product. This remains inside the tank for 24 hours. That is then emptied and a small amount of supplied Acetone tipped in and the tank turned. and twisted to get the liquid into all parts. This removes the remnants of the water and helps to prevent flash rusting. Straight after, the resin is poured in and much more twisting and turning applied to cover the entire inner surface with the product. The excess is then drained back into the pack and the tank rotated every 15 mins or so to prevent pooling. 6 hours later the resin is applied again and the excess drained off once more. Its easy to see why short cuts are tempting and probably lead to the majority of failings. Add that together with the fact that all the products in the pack will remove the paint from the outer surface instantly and you can see how easily this can all go so badly wrong. I did this job last week and the tank was allowed 3 days to dry. It has now been filled with fuel and siting on the bench with no seepage at all after 48 hours. Fingers are truly crossed but it does look promising.

22/10/2022 10:23:48 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Best of luck Glyn. I suspect I wouldn't have the patience to turn it every 15 minutes for 6 hours!

22/10/2022 11:31:25 UTC
Snod said :-
Great stuff Glyn, but how did you bung all the holes? Particularly the fuel level sensor hole? I may need to do this to a CBX250RS tank (never seen a non-leaking one for sale in the past 10 years!) but the level sensor has a huge rectangular hole on the underside.

No parts arrived in the post yet so you'll all have to wait a while for the next instalment of the BMW saga..

23/10/2022 14:29:54 UTC
nab301 said :-
@ Snod, re the battery , the ABS versions of the bike require a 19a/h battery which I think is taller, I know when I bought my BM back in '04 from a BMw dealer I had endless problems with abs faults after start up and eventually realised that there was a non abs battery fitted (16a/h I think).
On the brakes, assuming there is no air in the system it's possible that the master cylinder seals are leaking ,

23/10/2022 21:08:32 UTC
Glyn said :-
Snod, I cut a piece of flat plastic and drilled holes for the mounting screws. Then I used some frame sealant type silicon on the face and screwed it down over the fuel sensor hole. I found a correct thread brass bolt for the fuel tap hole and covered the threads in grease. Then I used the lid from a spray paint can with some tape wrapped around it for the filler hole (This needs to go in and out quite a lot). You need to be able to take the fuel tap screw out to drain it between the procedures because, in my case, there's quite a lip under the filler hole and not possible to get all the liquid out. I've been out for 20 miles today and it's holding up well.

24/10/2022 16:10:11 UTC
Snod said :-
nab - do you know if both those batteries are 51913, or just the 19A/H one? I needed the longer strap for the 51913 anyway, even took some stretching!

Anyway, she lives. Check the link for the moment of truth. Also it smokes like a chimney, hopefully it'll clear up with use.. And thankfully none of the neighbours complained that I'd ruined their washing.

When running up and down the little yard I gave the front brake a few proper stops and it seems a pad on the left is really chewing into the inner part of the disc, so hopefully they really do just need to bed in and the squishiness will be gone. Can only hope. I've also sent an email to the final drive rebuild place in Suffolk, will let you know what the quote is..!
Posted Image

05/11/2022 11:49:30 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Woohoo! It's alive. It's hard to tell from the video sound but it doesn't sound bad either.

05/11/2022 16:11:23 UTC
Snod said :-
It took a while to tick over without the "choke" but eventually it did. It picks up nicely, seems to pull well enough, and sounds quite sweet - both from the exhaust and mechanically. But it never really stopped smoking!

The final drive rebuild place have replied stating I need a whole replacement unit because of the crack around the drain plug. I thought about this for a few seconds and of course they are right, the outer casing is full of all the pinion gear and stuff.. Bit of a bugger. I've asked if they can swap all that into another case but no reply yet. If they say no, or ask for silly money, there are at least other units out there.

Also, it don't half lurch to the right when blipped on the throttle. Really quite disconcerting.

06/11/2022 15:32:26 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
They all Lurch Snod, but they usually stop smoking once they warm up.
The K1100's used to smoke like a trio of Woodbine addicts outside the boozer until they warmed up. They used to blow perfect smoke rings on choke. If anyone can tell me why you needed a choke on a FI bike, please enlighten me.
Even the newer K1100's would use about a 1/4 pint a day, it was quite a revelation when I went to a Pan.

06/11/2022 16:46:44 UTC
ROD¹ said :-
Upt', The oil heads with fuel injection do not actually have choke. The lever is to raise the engine revs when cold. So it is a fast run lever and does not make the mixture any richer.
I have heard of boxers smoking for a while when they are left for long periods on the side stand. Gravity will allow oil to pass the piston rings and enter the combination chamber, so the bike will smoke on start up until the oil is cleared.

06/11/2022 19:37:11 UTC
ROD¹ said :-
Strange? I am sure I typed combustion chamber?

06/11/2022 21:06:52 UTC
Snod said :-
I was going to say I don't think this has spent any significant time on the sidestand, but actually it has spent the past few months in the garage on exactly the sidestand so.. Hmmm.. Could be that! The smoke was certainly thick and stinky enough to be oil.

My 8v K100 doesn't lurch anything like this, but then it is a slow revving/heavily flywheeled beast. It also only drinks a bit of oil and doesn't smoke if parked on the sidestand for less than about 12 hours, as it's a later one with pinned rings.. Sounds like the K1100s weren't quite right! I also believe Moto Guzzi largely fixed the lurching problem by having the crank drive the clutch with gear teeth, so the clutch counter rotated.. Too clever for the Germans I guess, who were too busy fitting FI to everything even though a carb or two would've been perfectly fine.

07/11/2022 20:02:40 UTC
nab301 said :-
Snod , I had to check my "notebook" from decades ago and it seems I did fit a 51913 battery to my 1100S, more recently I butchered the battery tray and fitted a ride on lawn mower battery ( much favoured by Guzzi types) in the interest of economy.
Was that really the first start? It seemed to be turning over for an age and then fired up when the starter button was released ( voltage drop?) It's hard to tell from the video , is it definitely oil smoke , it sounded flooded initially at start up . Depending how long it was standing the injectors could need cleaning( poor spray pattern) In recent years I replaced mine with new ones fitted with the later 1200 model nozzles ( finer spray pattern ) and starting seems better than it was when I first got the bike back in '03.

09/11/2022 21:28:49 UTC
Snod said :-
Isn't the ride on mower battery a replacement for the massive 53030?

And yes it is the first start, to be honest I thought it'd catch earlier than that since it's injection! It was half firing while being helped by the starter, eventually it went (presumably on one cylinder) and the starter/clutch made a terrible screeching noise in protest (weirdly you can't hear this in the video??) so I let go of the button, when it did a few chugs and died. It may well have been flooded from all the turning over, or the injectors aren't closing properly, I don't know yet. I will almost certainly run some injector cleaner through it when it's back on the road, if only to make myself feel better..

10/11/2022 18:52:11 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
I think with fuel injection the starter can take so much power there's not enough to fire the injectors, which open when the starter button is released. That's one theory anyway.

11/11/2022 10:12:16 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Bumps starting Sharon's Z250SL is nigh-on impossible if the battery's flat. Even with a BIG hill it took some real effort. As Ian said the low battery power means there's not enough ooomph for - not only the injectors but the fuel pump. Add to that bad readings from various sensors due to low voltage and you're on a road to nowhere. I can see some merit in the engine, already spinning and producing voltage from the alternator, having enough oomph to power all the other bits required. Or it could just have been luck...

16/11/2022 16:49:59 UTC

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