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Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe
Rain In Northern France
Ride Date 3 Oct 2025
By Andy Gray
Day 21 - Gombergean to Fecamp 201 miles.
No rush to leave this morning as I could check anytime until 11am, I only had 200 miles to ride and could not check in to my next accommodation until 17:00. The only stumbling block was that light rain was forecast all afternoon. I really liked the gite, definitely quiet in the French countryside.
Hit the road at 10:40 and stayed on relatively small roads for the morning then larger roads later on. Lots of towns and villages on the way so I was constantly slowing down and speeding up. Most towns and villages have areas of 30kph (20mph) which makes it even slower.
The rain held off for the first two hours apart from a few spots. After crossing the huge river Loire yesterday, it was the turn of the much smaller Loir today. Stopped on the bridge in Montoire-sur-le-Loir but couldn’t spot any fish.
Keep seeing road signs with what looks like a hand waving a set of keys with the word déchetterie on it. Sometimes with 1 "t", sometimes 2. Kept forgetting to check so took a photo as a reminder. It is “waste disposal site”, not sure if that is the tip (aka recycling center) or just recycling bins.
Unfortunately the scenic Parc Naturel regional du Perche was a bit of a washout as the rain started lightly around 1pm and got heavier as I headed north. Stayed relatively dry and warm apart from one foot where my old boot leaks. Unluckily Perche doesn’t translate to the fish Perch but to a tall tree forested area. Had a very brief respite from the rain when I filled up with petrol in L’Aigle. Paying around €1.65 for petrol, £1.44 which seems quite expensive.
Approaching Montreuil-l'Argillé, there were my favourite “route barre” signs. I wondered why the road had been quite quiet! Followed the diversion but as usual the signs stopped. Had to make it up across little country lanes to get back to my real route. My route headed straight through the middle of the very large town (city?) Lisieux which wasn’t fun in the heavy rain.
Had to hit the motorway to get across the river Seine near Le Havre but at least the rain died down to go over the impressive Pont de Normandie bridge and navigate around Le Havre. Not sure what will happen about the tolls though. I went through the toll lane with my tag to join the motorway but the exit over the bridge had a motorbike lane and said bikes were free. Not sure if I spotted that last year.
After 20 miles of busy roads to Fecamp, I sent a message to the owner asking if I could check in early but the answer was no, it wasn’t ready yet!! Had to wait in the light rain on the sea front for 30 minutes before they messaged me the code for the key box.
The place I stayed last year wasn’t available at a sensible price so I’d found this other one with a garage that looked ok in the photos and reviews. Bit tired and dingy - a bit like me, but it will do for two nights. Popped out to get some shopping at the large Carrefour supermarket and struggled to find the entrance to the car park, it was surrounded by a one way system that I couldn’t get onto!!
Anyway seven days ago, I was stood looking out at Africa with the Mediterranean and Atlantic in 28C. Today I’m stood looking out at the English Channel in the rain and half the temperature! 1,681 miles from med/Atlantic to The Channel, an average of 240 miles per day.
River Loir at Montoire-sur-le-Loir.
Montoire-sur-le-Loir.
Not sure what these are, they looked a bit like thistles.
The cryptic Dechetterie or Decheterie sign.
Fecamp on the English (or French) Channel.
Looks like green curry for dinner.
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A long Ride to Gien
Big miles already on Andy's first day on the road. He's just getting settled into the ride and making his way south through France.
Smiling In The Rain
It's a soggy wet day through France for Andy, but that won't dampen his spirits. He stumbles upon 2CVs and climbing walls, straight roads and twisties.
Into The Pyrenees
With improving weather Andy is still heading south. It's all terribly positive, even the diversions are opportunities to explore. The Pyrenees continue to impress.
An Easy Day Around The Pyrenees
Andy is taking it easy today. Just a casual bimble around The Pyrenees, across mountains and valleys, you know, the sort of easy ride we all do on a lazy day. Ever more delightful images too.
Stuck In The Cols - Painful!
Andy is enjoying all the mountain passes on the French side of The Pyrenees - until he's "Route Barre" from getting back to the campsite. He's got the sniffles too.
Poor Poorly Andy
The sun is shining, the air is warm, the surroundings are lovely. Andy is rather under the weather himself, it's not the best couple of days.
Andy's Local Ride
Feeling a little better Andy's having an easy day exploring The Pyrenees. Scenery aplenty while dodging some rain.
Back On The Road And Heading South Again
Having mostly recovered Andy's back on the road making big miles through ever more stunning scenery. A few notes then pictures aplenty that'll make you wish you were there.
More Wonders, Weird Food
It's another day filled with fabulous things for Andy. Knights and bends in the road, mountains and flat bits, and a posh hotel with a sunset.
The Omnipresence Of Olive Groves
Andy's definition of a shorter ride is only 250 miles... sheesh. This time between the fabulous scenery and glorious weather it's olive groves as far as the eye can see.
To The Most Southern Tip Of Europe
Andy reaches the final destination of this trip. "You can see Africa from 'ere".
Good Weather, Good Scenery, Bad Surfaces
It's time for Andy to start the return leg of his big trip. It's all sunshine and hot weather, the views are still good too. The roads... well they're not quite as good. You can't have everything can you.
Heading North In The Rain
It's wet, it's cold and Andy is just getting on with the business of travelling. There's not a lot to see, just a few notes from the day - and a beer.
Better Weather, Getting High, Warm And Cold
Andy is still heading homewards while doing some serious looking around. Mountains, a castle, miradors, and architecture today.
Cracks, Vultures, And Cow Jams
Andy is having a fascinating ride through Spain today. Cows that won't "moooooove", gaps in the scenery, gaps in the tarmac, and he's trying his hand at geology.
Not Much To Report, Save For More Wonderous Views
All in all it's a fairly uneventful day on the road for Andy as he makes his way homeward bound. The scenery is good, the accommodation too, although the big GS has a "moment".
A Cave, A Gratin, And Tired
Andy is making his way back up through central France now. The day is uneventful save for the quiche that's not a quiche and the GS1250 is "having a moment".
Rain In Northern France
Yep - the rain has returned, the temperature is colder, and the accommodation is below par. Andy must be getting closer to Blighty now, obviously.
Reader's Comments
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Rain, eh? Hate it or ignore it you can't love it. We stayed at Montoire sur le Loir a few years ago with the caravan It was a typical French small town with an interesting musical instrument museum and an excellent cheap restaurant but not much else to write home about.
I remember crossing the Pont de Normandie a few years ago on the Tiger. On my way south everything was shrouded in thick mist. I did a write up about the trip (see link). My "bridge too far" journey. There is a pic of the free bike lane.
https://www.iansoady.org.uk/france%202007/fullfrance.html...
30/06/2026 15:39:35 UTC
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Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe