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Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe
A Cave, A Gratin, And Tired
Ride Date 2 Oct 2025
By Andy Gray
Day 20 - Perigueux to Gombergean 236 miles.
Didn’t rush to leave as I thought today’s trip wouldn’t take that long and could not check in to my accommodation until 17:00. Took longer than I expected as the roads went through lots of towns and villages and I was rather tired today so took plenty of breaks. Roads were more exciting than yesterday until late afternoon when they got bigger and straighter.
Not much exciting happened apart from a cave just after I left Perigueux. Not sure the translation of the text helps me understand what it is. Also had to use my horn twice today which is most unusual when I’m in France. Some idiot pulled straight out in front of me going a small town.
Headed up through Parc Naturel regional Perigord-Limousin which had lots of trees and hills. Only a couple of large towns as the route avoided them. Started at 12C when I left and was only 15C at midday. Crept to 20C in the late afternoon.
Around 12:30 I was coming though Orthez and the traffic was very slow up a hill. Two years in a row I’ve got caught in school kicking out time. As I said last year they seem to study very odd hours. I stopped to use the toilets in a supermarket at Hagetmau, just north of Pau and saw they had a sandwich shop. So I bought a huge €3.50 chicken salad baguette to go with my quiche. When I opened said quiche it didn’t look much like a quiche. In fact, it was potato gratin which is what the label said. There were definitely ones labelled quiche on the same shelf!! Anyway, I managed to eat it with my fingers.
Stopped to get petrol in Marmande at an automated supermarket pump. Filled the bike and tried to start it but it just turned over twice very slowly as if the battery was flat. Tried again with the same result. Had to push the bike into the supermarket car park so the people queued behind me could use the pump. Luckily it was pretty flat (the car park...). I was thinking the worse and that I’d have to try my breakdown service. Had a drink and a snack then tried again and it started perfectly. Think she just wanted a five minute rest after all the hard work she’s been put through.
Arrived in Perigueux which is just north of Bergerac and found the gate to my accommodation on the banks of a small canal from L’Isle river. Looks like I’m lucky with this one. Behind the electric gate are two single story appartments, one where the owner lives and the other rented out. It has outdoor space, a large lounge kitchen, bathroom and bedroom.
After I’d been shopping to get some dinner I took a quick wander around the town. It has been a settlement since 200BC and was a Roman city. St Front’s cathedral is quite pretty as are the small cobbled streets.
The translation says:
MAGDALENIAN PREHISTORIC STATION OF RAYMONDEN
IN THIS STATION FVT DISCOVERED
ON OCTOBER 15, 1888 BY M.M. HARDY AND FEAVX THE HUMAN SOUL CALLED RAYMONDEN OR CHANCELADE AND ANATOMY BY PROFESSOR TESTVT
TO HIS COLLEAGUES
THE HISTORICAL AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF PÉRIGORD MARCH 1933
The sign said stop so I did.
My gite for the night.
There’s not much else to do around here but pray.
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A long Ride to Gien
Big miles already on Andy's first day on the road. He's just getting settled into the ride and making his way south through France.
Smiling In The Rain
It's a soggy wet day through France for Andy, but that won't dampen his spirits. He stumbles upon 2CVs and climbing walls, straight roads and twisties.
Into The Pyrenees
With improving weather Andy is still heading south. It's all terribly positive, even the diversions are opportunities to explore. The Pyrenees continue to impress.
An Easy Day Around The Pyrenees
Andy is taking it easy today. Just a casual bimble around The Pyrenees, across mountains and valleys, you know, the sort of easy ride we all do on a lazy day. Ever more delightful images too.
Stuck In The Cols - Painful!
Andy is enjoying all the mountain passes on the French side of The Pyrenees - until he's "Route Barre" from getting back to the campsite. He's got the sniffles too.
Poor Poorly Andy
The sun is shining, the air is warm, the surroundings are lovely. Andy is rather under the weather himself, it's not the best couple of days.
Andy's Local Ride
Feeling a little better Andy's having an easy day exploring The Pyrenees. Scenery aplenty while dodging some rain.
Back On The Road And Heading South Again
Having mostly recovered Andy's back on the road making big miles through ever more stunning scenery. A few notes then pictures aplenty that'll make you wish you were there.
More Wonders, Weird Food
It's another day filled with fabulous things for Andy. Knights and bends in the road, mountains and flat bits, and a posh hotel with a sunset.
The Omnipresence Of Olive Groves
Andy's definition of a shorter ride is only 250 miles... sheesh. This time between the fabulous scenery and glorious weather it's olive groves as far as the eye can see.
To The Most Southern Tip Of Europe
Andy reaches the final destination of this trip. "You can see Africa from 'ere".
Good Weather, Good Scenery, Bad Surfaces
It's time for Andy to start the return leg of his big trip. It's all sunshine and hot weather, the views are still good too. The roads... well they're not quite as good. You can't have everything can you.
Heading North In The Rain
It's wet, it's cold and Andy is just getting on with the business of travelling. There's not a lot to see, just a few notes from the day - and a beer.
Better Weather, Getting High, Warm And Cold
Andy is still heading homewards while doing some serious looking around. Mountains, a castle, miradors, and architecture today.
Cracks, Vultures, And Cow Jams
Andy is having a fascinating ride through Spain today. Cows that won't "moooooove", gaps in the scenery, gaps in the tarmac, and he's trying his hand at geology.
Not Much To Report, Save For More Wonderous Views
All in all it's a fairly uneventful day on the road for Andy as he makes his way homeward bound. The scenery is good, the accommodation too, although the big GS has a "moment".
A Cave, A Gratin, And Tired
Andy is making his way back up through central France now. The day is uneventful save for the quiche that's not a quiche and the GS1250 is "having a moment".
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Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe