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Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe
Cracks, Vultures, And Cow Jams
Ride Date 30 Sep 2025
By Andy Gray
Day 18 - Arcones to Pamplona 252 miles
Busy, busy, busy.
Had a lovely meal in the Hostel restaurant last night, lamb stew preceded by a free bowl of soup. Breakfast this morning was included and despite being a little odd to someone English, it was very tasty. Everything was cold but there were fried eggs with runny yolks, cold omelette, thinly sliced pork and crisp bits of bacon plus a selection of meats and cereals if you wanted. Oh and chocolate covered ring donuts!
It looks like the mountain range behind the hotel could well be the same ridge that continues to Soria which I followed last year. Anyway I was on the road by 10am heading towards Pamplona which is NE of Arcones but I never go the direct route so I’ll be playing in one of my favourite mountain ranges before getting there.
The start was across country on small lanes which were badly surfaced, it was like all of the repairs had been repaired multiple times and was totally bumpy. Most of the morning was spent on rolling roads with only one stretch of flatlands.
At midday, I saw signs for Santo Domingo de Silos and swellings on the horizon which could only mean I was getting close to the Sierra de la Demanda. My route wasn’t going to take me up to any of the ski resorts and stayed with smaller peaks up to 1500m. It was on roads I enjoyed last year.
I went through 2 short tunnels just before Sierra de la Demanda and looked into the gorge on my right and could see a metal walkway and a statue. Had to turn around and investigate the parking area before the tunnels. Turns out it was a hiking path through the narrow gorge so I decided to go for a walk. This was a great decision as the path led to the gorge where the walkway began with a stream running below. It travels through the narrow gorge and involved a few contortions to get around some parts. Also needed a bit of careful passing of the couple of other people coming in the opposite direction.
The gorge opens up and there is the metal statue of a vulture. The walkway carries on for a short while before hiking trails through the woods begin. On some of the plants on the walls, the bees were going mad and making the most of the remaining flowers. Wandered back to the car park which was harder work as it was uphill. It was only 2km but definitely worthwhile.
Sat at one of the picnic benches to eat my lunch that I’d bought earlier - mini cheese and bacon empanadas. As I started the vultures decided to put on a great show on the ridge in front of me.
I was soon headed off and down a great road through a long gorge where you’ve got high rock walks on both sides. I spotted that a lot of the vultures here were taking a siesta up on the rocks so had to stop for more photos. The road opened out and followed a very empty reservoir made by flooding the valley. It was so empty you could see the old road and buildings. The road surface here was dodgy with repairs on repairs but after the next village, it improved to brand new tarmac.
Just before that there were three horses on the road, I was being careful but the Spanish driver coming the other way was more impatient which spooked them. Luckily not too close to me. I couldn’t take advantage of the new tarmac as the cow pats gave a warning of what could be around the next blind corner!
I came to a road block made from a herd of cows which took 5 minutes of gentle encouragement to clear. The mums weren’t moving until the babies were safe. There were then a couple of cows who’d been lost by the herd and a few sheep to make it interesting. The road is sign posted as a motorcycle route, I’m wondering if the Rioja region are trying to wipe us out!
It was only when I stopped for the cows that I noticed how cloudy it was, hadn’t seen that happening. It started off at 12C when I left this morning but was now 20C. To get to the main roads, the road headed over Puerto de Montenegro 1,592m which involved plenty of hairpins, luckily with no wildlife.
The N-111 to Logrono was a very fast windy road that headed through some interesting sandstone (?) hills. I then joined the A-12 motorway towards Pamplona with a slight detour for fuel and drinks. A few backroads got me to my hotel/hostal in Salinas de Pamplona. Unluckily the hotel restaurant isn’t open so I had to go out again to collect a takeaway pizza!!
First proper hill of the day.
The gap is the gorge.
The start of the path through the gorge.
Looking narrow.
Looking back up the gorge.
Sunlight in the gorge.
Vulture statue.
Lunch.
Vulture siesta.
Vulture siesta.
Vulture siesta.
Empty reservoir with the old road/bridge in the centre and the new road/bridge on the right.
Cow jam.
Fun roads.
Puerto de Montenegro.
Sandstone (?) rocks on N-111.
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A long Ride to Gien
Big miles already on Andy's first day on the road. He's just getting settled into the ride and making his way south through France.
Smiling In The Rain
It's a soggy wet day through France for Andy, but that won't dampen his spirits. He stumbles upon 2CVs and climbing walls, straight roads and twisties.
Into The Pyrenees
With improving weather Andy is still heading south. It's all terribly positive, even the diversions are opportunities to explore. The Pyrenees continue to impress.
An Easy Day Around The Pyrenees
Andy is taking it easy today. Just a casual bimble around The Pyrenees, across mountains and valleys, you know, the sort of easy ride we all do on a lazy day. Ever more delightful images too.
Stuck In The Cols - Painful!
Andy is enjoying all the mountain passes on the French side of The Pyrenees - until he's "Route Barre" from getting back to the campsite. He's got the sniffles too.
Poor Poorly Andy
The sun is shining, the air is warm, the surroundings are lovely. Andy is rather under the weather himself, it's not the best couple of days.
Andy's Local Ride
Feeling a little better Andy's having an easy day exploring The Pyrenees. Scenery aplenty while dodging some rain.
Back On The Road And Heading South Again
Having mostly recovered Andy's back on the road making big miles through ever more stunning scenery. A few notes then pictures aplenty that'll make you wish you were there.
More Wonders, Weird Food
It's another day filled with fabulous things for Andy. Knights and bends in the road, mountains and flat bits, and a posh hotel with a sunset.
The Omnipresence Of Olive Groves
Andy's definition of a shorter ride is only 250 miles... sheesh. This time between the fabulous scenery and glorious weather it's olive groves as far as the eye can see.
To The Most Southern Tip Of Europe
Andy reaches the final destination of this trip. "You can see Africa from 'ere".
Good Weather, Good Scenery, Bad Surfaces
It's time for Andy to start the return leg of his big trip. It's all sunshine and hot weather, the views are still good too. The roads... well they're not quite as good. You can't have everything can you.
Heading North In The Rain
It's wet, it's cold and Andy is just getting on with the business of travelling. There's not a lot to see, just a few notes from the day - and a beer.
Better Weather, Getting High, Warm And Cold
Andy is still heading homewards while doing some serious looking around. Mountains, a castle, miradors, and architecture today.
Cracks, Vultures, And Cow Jams
Andy is having a fascinating ride through Spain today. Cows that won't "moooooove", gaps in the scenery, gaps in the tarmac, and he's trying his hand at geology.
Reader's Comments
ROD¹ said :-
This sounds and looks like an ideal motorcycle route.Great photos. Well done.
21/04/2026 08:51:45 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Well written Andy, sounded like the best sort of riding weather too. Some good red wines come from Navarra, Garnacha from memory.
Can't wait for the next installment, but I spose I'll have too. Thanks for the map Ed!
Pffffffftttttt.
Upt.
21/04/2026 09:35:36 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Oh yes, ain't cows stoopid. How can anything that eats that well be so damn dumb?
21/04/2026 09:36:46 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Another great report, and that gorge looks amazing. Cows? Many years ago I was doing the RAC/ACU National Rally on the Commando. I was using a B road in the wilds of Shropshire in the early hours when I came across a similar herd - off for morning milking I assume. I politely pulled into the side of the road and stopped the engine. This didn't prevent them from brushing past me and almost flattening me & the Norton to the ground. I'm always a bit scared of cattle as they're bigger and stronger than me....
21/04/2026 10:25:38 UTC
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Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe