Home
Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe
Into The Pyrenees
Ride Date 15 Sep 2025
By Andy Gray
Day 3: Cahors to Isabena 244 miles.
A day of diversions, two enforced by roadworks and one self enforced.
As soon as I left Cahors there was the first Route Barre sign. I followed the dérivation signs and in the middle of what seemed like nowhere, they stopped. Anyway it was a chance to explore the countryside, as long as I was heading south or south-west it was all good. Discovered some incredible roads and very pretty villages which was a distinct improvement on the planned straight roads.
The next closed road was only a short while after and again it took me off into some nice countryside with vines, fruit trees and very sad sunflowers. It is that time of year where the sunflowers are dying off and they look so sad. It was nice to see a few late blooming rebels proudly showing their faces.
Stopped to take photos of a nice avenue of trees down the road, the next vehicle coming down the road stopped to make sure I was ok.
Eventually got to the large town of Auch (no idea how to pronounce that one) where last year I found a nice boulangerie that as well as the bread and pastries sells filled baguettes (and puts up with my franglais). As I left, I had a couple of trips around the one way system to take some photos of the cathedral.
Next was more straight roads heading south and a quick shower until the Pyrenees were in sight, well... in the cloud anyway.
After a quick fuel stop I started my own diversion through the spa town of Bagnères-de-Luchon and up my first mountain of the trip. It was only a short diversion but added several hairpins to get up and down the Col du Portillon at 1293 metres.
The top marked the border to Spain and Catalunya. Around 950 miles to reach Spain. Really should’ve gone up to Superbagnères, a Tour de France climb but it is a dead end.
At the bottom I joined the main road to climb out of Vielha and eventually thru the 5km tunnel to go from 15C inside to 28C the other side.
The usual spectacular ride to the campsite at Isabena was made interesting by road works shoring up the rock walls. One section involved a 10 minute wait then we found 2/3 of the road covered by rocks they’d obviously bought down from the sides.
Arrived at my favourite campsite at Isabena (as recommended by Duncan) with 27C and some shade to set up the tent. A couple of beers, a nice meal and I’m ready for bed.
Castelnau-Montratier on the first diversion.
Divine inspiration and sad sunflowers.
Classic avenue of trees.
This doesn’t look like my main route south.
Auch cathedral.
First mountain pass.
She’s my hero.
Tour de France monument.
Traffic jam.
Campsite restaurant buzzing as usual.
Share your own tales, a few words and pics or a detailed blow-by-blow - click here.
A long Ride to Gien
Big miles already on Andy's first day on the road. He's just getting settled into the ride and making his way south through France.
Smiling In The Rain
It's a soggy wet day through France for Andy, but that won't dampen his spirits. He stumbles upon 2CVs and climbing walls, straight roads and twisties.
Into The Pyrenees
With improving weather Andy is still heading south. It's all terribly positive, even the diversions are opportunities to explore. The Pyrenees continue to impress.
Reader's Comments
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Great - reminds me so much of similar trips I made (it shocks me to say) 20 -30 years ago on the Commando, especially the road lined with trees. Apparently planted by Napoleon so his troops could march in the shade.
My French routefinding was always: fold the IGN 1:1m map to the appropriate section and then draw an imaginary straight line to my possible destination for the day. Then look for the windiest D and N roads heading in that direction, preferably with the green line alogside showing a "scenic" route. The Tour de France climbs in the Pyrenees are magic, especially the Col d'Aubisque.
As for routes barrées: autumn is the season for them, often accompanied by copious amounts of gravillons. I was once tiptoeing along on the Tiger trying to avoid coming a cropper when I was overtaken by a teenage girl on a scooter with helmet on the back of her head and jacket sleeves flying in the wind. She slalomed off into the distance while I nervously wobbled after. All she needed was a Gauloise drooping from her lower lip to complete the image from a Truffaut movie.
28/10/2025 12:26:04 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
"Campsite restaurant buzzing as usual". Buzzing with blummin mossies I bet, or is that just me?
We booked a restaurant in Italy recently on the interwebthingymabob and turned up on schedule. I think it was near Montepulciano. "Your garden table is ready sir and madam",......"no ta me duck we'll sit inside". Wasn't possible apparently, we ate elsewhere. I was rude apparently? ME rude!
Pffffffftttttt.
28/10/2025 16:14:28 UTC
nab301 said :-
Some lovely scenery there and much better weather! As for the list of Tour De France competitors , Miguel Indurain , there's a blast from the past!
29/10/2025 15:37:52 UTC
Bogger said :-
The Pyrenees is a lovely area. I've been over it four times. The thing I find interesting is the French side is lush and green.
Thirty miles later once you traversed the mountains and into Spain the landscape has changed completely , it's much drier and less densely forested. Not a complaint, just an observation.
Bogger
03/11/2025 09:15:11 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Yes, I much prefer the French side. Better food as well.
03/11/2025 12:56:49 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
It's just the same with the Picos Bogger. North of the range it can be pretty dismal, green yes but often wet and misty. Go over the top and head south the weather can go from cool and wet to phew it's blummin warm in a couple of miles.
Upt.
03/11/2025 16:48:45 UTC
Name
Comment
Add a RELEVANT link (not required)
Upload an image (not required) -
Uploading...
Home
Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe