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Travel StoriesScotland, And A Little Rain
Easy To Dalwhinnie And Shameful Friends
Ride Date 6 June 2024
By Ren Withnell
Hurrah! It rained a lot last night and yet as I stir this morning we are not floating. It's the small wins that make life tolerable don't you think? This morning runs as the previous mornings. I'm up too early, I make my ablutions until there's life in one of the caravans, I cadge a brew, Sharon gets up, we sit around and discuss what we're doing and eventually we all get organised.
Ben Nevis had no snow when we arrived. It does now... when you can see it.
So what's today's plan? Janine is off on another big walk. Mark is staying here at the campsite, with his health he reckons a rest day is in order in preparation for the journey home. This makes sense and we know he'll be fine, he's talking of walking to the distillery nearby. Sharon's coming on the back of my bike, kind of like a half-rest-day for her. That means 3 bikes, 3 riders and one pillion.
We've been west to Mallaig and Strontian. We came here from the south. We went north (east) to Inverness yesterday. That leaves east. The obvious route is the A82 then A86 to Dalwhinnie for a brew. Then the A9 and the B845 through Tummel Bridge, A827, A85, A82 Tyndrum and back to Fort William via Glencoe.
This is the obvious route for today.
There's always a but. But the weather is still very mixed. But that route is 160 miles and even we are thinking we too have a big ride tomorrow so we might want to take it easy today. But we'll be going back via Glencoe and Rannoch Moor tomorrow anyway. No, tell ya what, let us go to Dalwhinne then come back via the same route, that'll be a bout 90 miles. I never like taking the same route each way but today it does make sense. That's the plan.
As another shower rolls in and out we're mounted on our iron steeds - ready to take on the world! Or at least a very small part of Scotland. I'm in a funny mood today. As stated above I don't like taking the same route there and back. I feel as though I really ought to be making the 160 mile round trip. But then why? What am I trying to prove? That I'm a big roughty toughty adventure type clocking the big miles? Yes I know 160 miles is not big miles and this is troubling my ego too.
But I'm 52 not 22. I should know better. I have middle aged spread and grey hairs. I know that enjoying myself is far better than constantly trying to prove myself. I'm far more relaxed at the notion of an easy 90 miles and being back in time for a chill evening. Oh no! This means I'm old! Oh what is a man supposed to think.
Then the scenery kicks in. Then the road starts to flow. Then the bike feels delightful beneath me, curving left and carving right, not fast, not slow. The sun pops out for a moment and glistens off the Loch. Stop fussing about the privilege of getting old and knackered and enjoy that which is right here right now and right in front of me while I still can.
The A86 from Spean Bridge is another of the many great Highland roads. This one is quieter too, not devoid of traffic mind but today it's flowing well. There's a few sharper bends but it's mostly fast and wide with reasonable overtaking opportunities. Add to this the associated superlatives about the mountains, the lochside scenery, and the occasional ancient architecture and you get the picture.
It barely feels like we've even warmed the bikes up properly by the time we arrive in Dalwhinnie.
I don't think I've been to The Apiary Cafe before. The sun's out when we get here then as we're about to take our seats outside on the benches the rain returns. Again. We head inside but space is hard to find, we squeeze into a corner with our helmets and tankbags and jackets and gloves in a big pile. I remember when the other cafe in Dalwhinnie was a lonesome place with just a soggy Sharon and Ren in an empty room. Scotland is getting busy, real busy.
Well it was sunny when we got here!
Mmmmmmm... CAKE!
The return leg poses another problem. What with this being our last full day in Scotland there's pressure to get pictures. However - finding suitable places to stop is in fact far more complicated than you might think. I'll try to explain.
While we're hardly the fastest motorcyclists out there we are moving along these delightful roads at a fair pace. I spy a scene that would make a lovely snapshot but there's nowhere safe to stop. As we're moving along on sometimes wet tarmac I also need to also keep a level of focus on my riding. Then whoosh! We've passed the perfect layby where we could capture the perfect Highland photograph. Dagnammit!
We're in the middle of nowhere, there's no nearby sideroad or roundabout to turn around in. I am not prepared to try and stop 3 bikes on a fast road and make a 3 bike U turn, that's the stuff of YouTube Idiot Videos. Gosh darn it, even Sharon's whacking me on the shoulder demanding we stop soon. I'm trying! I'm trying! Whoosh, there goes a tiny side road we could have turned around in. For goodness sake.
This continues on. I do find a place to stop by The Laggan Dam much to Sharon, Rob and Rik's relief. Later I try again to find a safe stopping point where we can capture the wonders of Ben Nevis and it's surrounding mountains. This leads to U-turns in side roads, going back and forth somewhere near Inverroy and then finally we get the results we've been after.
Laggan Dam.
Sharon does manage to capture the beauty of Scotland.
Yep, definitely been snowing up there.
I'd like to say everyone's happy but I can't help thinking at least Sharon if not Rob and Rik would have liked me to find more photo opportunities. These are the trials and tribulations of being a leader - you try to keep your followers happy but alas I do at times fail. Perhaps they forget I also try to keep them safe by not jamming on the brakes, making dangerous unpredictable manoeuvres or stopping where there's nowhere to stop.
Not to worry. We're back in good time and this means it's time for the evening shenanigans once more. It's hard to believe but there's a lack of food and snacks so we must make our way back to the shops. With a little more time and energy we decide we're going via the castle, that'll be Old Inverlochy Castle.
The castle is - a castle. It's not a grand one and it's in ruin, and frustratingly surrounded by temporary wire fencing. I presume there's some preservation or safety work afoot so we can only walk by it.
This is as close as we're getting to the castle today.
As stated my delicate ego is always trying to be a roughty toughty mean moody mile munching hardcore gnarly adventurous butch type. This is terribly hard to maintain when I'm stood in a blummin' soap shop. The Highland Soap Company Visitor Centre is, as you'd expect, filled with soaps of all kinds and all the things that nice people like, not roughty toughty mean moody mile munching hardcore gnarly adventurous butch types like me.
So my friends - now merely acquaintances - are all in there sniffing soaps and worst of all - BUYING soaps! Oh the shame, the ignominy. Us mean-n-moody types wash in Swarfega not honey and rose perfumed soaps for delicate skin. It's embarrassing it really is you know - I need a better class of riding buddies.
No Cut-Offs and no Patchouli Oil. Pffffffft.
After Aldi it's back to the caravans and more of the same. Too much food, most of it snacks, lots of tea, coffee, a beer or two, and just sitting there chatting. Of course I love riding my bike, especially in Scotland, but these evening socials with this small group of easy going folks have been utterly pleasurable these last 3 evenings. Even so, despite my enjoying their easy going company - can I forgive them for buying soap, POSH soap?
Things like this have been our primary diet this week.
As I settle into the sleeping bag I realise something. I know I'd like to be that roughty toughty mean moody mile munching hardcore gnarly adventurous butch type, but I'm not. And as I age I'm getting much more comfortable with that. And as I get more comfortable with that I find I'm enjoying my riding and my holidays and my friendships more. I enjoyed today's ride BECAUSE it was easy.
Tomorrow we've got around 180 miles to do. For some riders I know this is barely worth starting the engine for. For myself (and Sharon) this is a comfortably manageable distance that leaves us feeling as though we've travelled, gotten somewhere else, had a good ride and yet we have enough energy left to enjoy the evening.
But soap? Really? Unforgivable.
2nd September '24 - 53,000 visitors per month. Advertise here contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
Prologue - Scotland, And A Little Rain
In the lead up to this year's trip with friends it's all sorted and settled very swiftly. With that done all Ren has to do is contain his antici...pation and try to be a growed up and not a child. No hope.
A Lovely Start
Good weather, good roads and a good campsite next to a pleasant town. There must be something wrong with the universe if Ren isn't grumbling and griping, this can't last.
Northbound, A Ferry And Big Trees
The Dynamic Muppets are continuing their ride north and so far there's no major disasters. There's roads to be ridden, a favourite ferry and a strange new place to explore.
Finally - The Highlands
It's the time of The Gathering in The Highlands (some of you might get that...). The sun is shining, Ren is less miserable than usual and all is well. Wait, are we on the right website here?
Mixed Weather And Mixed Roads, Mallaig And Strontian
With mixed weather on the cards it'll be interesting to see what the day brings. Not everything goes quite to plan but things are done, motorcycles get ridden and sights are seen.
Deluge, Disaster, And Delights
Oh what a day! There's disaster and rain, sunshine and delightful hospitality, and the drama of weather and Highland scenery. Buckle up.
Easy To Dalwhinnie And Shameful Friends
It's an easy day's ride in The Highlands today although not everything is going quite the way it should. It doesn't help when Ren's friends are shopping for... soap.
Reader's Comments
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Ashcoooo, ashcoooo, blummin posh soap. Set me sinuses off. Asssssccchhhhhooooooooo! That's better.
Nice pictures Ed.
You see, leader, I don't mind a short ride day but I do mind a get there early day and what do we do now?, sort of day. If the day's for riding then I like to ride, I don't enjoy prolonged coffee stops and more cake just because of bad planning. But your day sounded alright, the leader needs to concentrate more on his stopping for a picture skills but all in all I think I would have enjoyed it.
I can't remember being on that road, but I'm old'ish, so who knows?
Who cares?
Ta me duck.
Upt.
03/09/2024 12:31:48 UTC
nab301 said :-
Some lovely looking scenery , cake, chocolate buttons and snow in summer , is that global warming or normal for the highlands?
Nigel
03/09/2024 15:23:48 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
It's not unusual for snow to fall above 3000 ft in the Highlands into the beginning of June.
I've walked up The Ben in May in full blown white outs.
It can be wild up there.
Upt.
03/09/2024 20:24:35 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
But yes, obviously a s#!$$y spring and summer must equate to global warming. And yes it's all our fault. Have you noticed how they've stopped showing us pictures of starving polar bears and rising seas? LOL.
03/09/2024 20:40:36 UTC
ROD¹ said :-
Upt', can you remember when even David Attenborough was telling us that the great barrier reef had died and would never recover. This of course was attributed to global warming.
It's strange that nobody in the media has thought it important enough to tell us that the great barrier reef has now recovered!
Oh no, I am drifting of subject, and in danger of the thought police paying myself a visit.
03/09/2024 22:31:31 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Snow on Ben Nevis is like the Midge Season. The weather does not concern itself with our notions of where and when and whether or not it should snow. It will snow on Ben Nevis when the weather is right for snow on Ben Nevis. That could be anytime of year, it's just more likely in winter.
It's the same for "Midge Season". If, perchance, there's a relatively warm spell after rain and the air is quite still, the midges will be out. Obviously this is more likely in summer but given the right conditions the midges don't look at a calendar and go "ooooh, it's not midge season yet, I'll stay in bed".
04/09/2024 07:15:10 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
I didn't know they could talk?
And if they do, their bark is definitely not worse than their bite.
Same here in God's country Ed, they can be out in March and October and were definitely enjoying a late nibble yesterday.
04/09/2024 13:07:34 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Well that's what you get for being a country bumpkin Upt'. They'll be out in February if the conditions are right... it's just that the conditions are seldom right.
04/09/2024 15:38:10 UTC
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Travel StoriesScotland, And A Little Rain