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Travel StoriesScotland, And A Little Rain
Mixed Weather And Mixed Roads, Mallaig And Strontian
Ride Date 4 June 2024
By Ren Withnell
It's been raining overnight. Not torrentially, but enough for me to awaken this morning to the sound of heavy mizzle on the tent. A part of my soul sinks. I'm not normally a kind hearted selfless soul, far from it. I'm thinking of Rik who's never ridden a highland road in the dry. Well, yeah, OK he did yesterday but not the highland roads he could have in store today. Poor Rik.
It's too early for madam so I don my boots and shiny new waterproof jacket and take myself off for a short morning stroll. I walk up to the statics, Rik and Mark's van has no signs of life, Rob and Janine's is equally devoid. I saunter across to the river banks and notice Ben Nevis has gone. I mean gone, nothing, nada. There's just soggy mist where Ben Nevis once was. As I ponder what kind of force can turn the UK's highest mountain into deglorified steam it crosses my mind - perhaps someone's just moved it?
It's a soggy damp and moist kind of morning.
There once was a Ben Nevis just here.
Aha! Rob's up and about so I tap him up for a brew in the comfort of his caravan. I fill my belly with wholly inappropriate foodstuffs such as biscuits, peanuts, crisps and sweets as we chat and the rest of the crew slowly joins us. I'm sensing a slow start today. The plan evolves into Mallaig and back via Strontian. This is an easy run and not too challenging if the weather remains poor, although it seems to be easing a little. Rik wants to stop at Glenfinnan to see the Harry Potter bridge. Kids eh, pfffft.
It's around 1100 before we're all kitted up, waterproofed, wallets in the tank bags and keys in the ignition. Sharon will be pillion today, what with the weather and the previous 3 full days of riding, and her being Lady Muck and me the chauffeur. Janine's off walking somewhere. That's a good thing about this group, do what you want, it's fine.
We're soon up to speed on the absolutely splendiferous A830 towards Mallaig. Stunning scenery - check. Wide curves and sweeping corners - check. Light traffic - almost but not a full "check" on that. Dry weather - nope. It's not siling it down but the surface is wet and our visors be-dropletted.
Behind the trees steam rises and there's that smell of oil, steam and smoke. Oh wow!! Yes it's the Jacobite steam train, AKA the Harry Potter train. I'm sure to point to my left and hopefully we all get the merest glimpse of the black locomotive and the traditional carriages between the thick trees, fabulous. Rik will be pleased.
As we approach Glenfinnan all is not well. There's sturdy chaps in hi-vis, cones and queues of traffic. For reasons unknown it seems the car park to the visitor centre is full?, Closed? We'll squeeze in, we're on bikes, but a burly chap is having non of it. I turn into a narrow lane a hundred yards after, thinking we can walk? No parking signs everywhere, plenty of cars thinking the same thing and making questionable u-turns. Sorry Rik, it's not happening today, even in the rain.
Rik won't be seeing this... this image is from 2010!
I feel sorry for Rik again. I guess it's not my fault and there's nothing I can do about it. Ho well.
The rain eases then stops. Good. The road appears to be drying here. Even better. It's not sunny but we are starting to push a little through these bends now. I'm feeling it, I hope the rest of the crew are feeling it too. The sensations of the bike as it leans, the thrill as the power comes in through the corner, the wind as we gather speed. There really is nothing else quite like it is there. All this among rocky outcrops, dense trees then open moor, the loch edges, and the mountains both near and far.
Mallaig is lovely but I'm sad that it's arrived so soon! After messing around in the tiny town we settle on parking in the car park when I discover it's free for bikes. With that we depart in search of tea and food. We've been lucky with this ride and the road being fairly quiet as Mallaig is rammed with tourists of all kinds. It takes us a while to find any cafe with seating to squeeze into. Tea, cake, a sandwich perhaps? All the while we're jostled as people squeeze by. Scotland is getting busy, way busier than I remember it.
Rik does actually get to see the choo-choo.
Shall we park in the motorcycle bay? What a good idea.
When we'd arrived the petrol station was shut, the chap told us they're out of unleaded but the tanker is due soon. Hmmm. I think we've all got enough to get straight back but not the spare capacity to be certain we'd all make it if we take the Strontian route. The petrol station now has fuel - great. Even better while not exactly cheap it's not stupidly overpriced too. We all fill up.
The section of road from Mallaig to the junction for the A861 at Lochailort is fast and open. Once on the A861 it's mostly single track with the odd "track-and-a half" and two way sections. I'm leading us slowly and carefully through sinuous narrow dirty wet bits. Then I'm blasting on an open section. Then I'm powering through short sections of 2 way. Then it's raining and I'm backing off. "Variable" is how I'd describe the pace on this road today.
Rik's riding that Harley in ways it was never designed to do. Rob seems to be intentionally dropping back then blasting up to us and Mark makes his usual solid steady pace bringing up the rear. We give it large, we tread carefully, we slow to see, we speed up to enjoy. It's only 31 miles this road but it takes a while because of how narrow it is.
The cafe at Strontian is also busy - relatively speaking. There's 4 other folks there, 2 of them a couple on a big adventure bike and 2 locals. More tea, a brief chat with the other biking couple, a visit to the loo and we're ready for off again.
Strontian is looking well in the intermittent sunshine.
I know this next section of road and it's a guddun. From here to Corran the road is all 2 lanes, open, fast and with some of the best scenery in The Highlands. We are moving swiftly, we are within the limits of the law but bending the rules as much as we dare. Vast open vistas of endless mountains, corners that you can see all the way around, sharper bends as we drop into the valley and then finally we slow to 30 as we approach the ferry terminal.
As we wait for the ferry I say to Rik "How far was that you reckon, from the cafe like?" He guesses maybe 4 or 5 miles. No mate, 15. It's one of those all engrossing stretches of tarmac that grabs your attention visually and physically, you're so encapsulated by the experience time just loses all meaning. We got to ride it today in the dry, with a little sunshine too for good measure. Rik's a lucky boy, we're all lucky today.
Getting onto The Corran Ferry. That's Rik's Harley you can hear.
We take the short Corran Ferry crossing and make our way gently back up the A82 and back to the site, stopping at Aldi for food and a lot more vitamin free fibre free not good for us at all snacks and sweets and chocolate. We're all reaching that age where heart attacks become more of a risk - is this risk due to age or the terrible substances mature folks eat because we still think we're young?
The evening is much like the last evening, in the best possible way. There is a little real food going around but for the most part it's all very tasty and very unhealthy. There's the odd beer here and there but mostly tea and coffee and a little pop. We're yakking about the ride and the roads and the scenery and the Highland experience. There's talk of what tomorrow will bring and the weather. Outside the rain comes and goes and the evening is cooling down somewhat.
As the showers rattle the tent and I drift of I reckon we've done well today. Initially I felt as though Mallaig and back would be too short a ride, a waste, a missed opportunity. No, with hindsight it was about right given the weather and we're all probably somewhat ride weary already after getting here. Mind you, lookin at Google Maps we've done 112 miles so that's not too bad. Tomorrow's forecast is not exactly ideal, but we'll be fine I'm sure of it.
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Prologue - Scotland, And A Little Rain
In the lead up to this year's trip with friends it's all sorted and settled very swiftly. With that done all Ren has to do is contain his antici...pation and try to be a growed up and not a child. No hope.
A Lovely Start
Good weather, good roads and a good campsite next to a pleasant town. There must be something wrong with the universe if Ren isn't grumbling and griping, this can't last.
Northbound, A Ferry And Big Trees
The Dynamic Muppets are continuing their ride north and so far there's no major disasters. There's roads to be ridden, a favourite ferry and a strange new place to explore.
Finally - The Highlands
It's the time of The Gathering in The Highlands (some of you might get that...). The sun is shining, Ren is less miserable than usual and all is well. Wait, are we on the right website here?
Mixed Weather And Mixed Roads, Mallaig And Strontian
With mixed weather on the cards it'll be interesting to see what the day brings. Not everything goes quite to plan but things are done, motorcycles get ridden and sights are seen.
Deluge, Disaster, And Delights
Oh what a day! There's disaster and rain, sunshine and delightful hospitality, and the drama of weather and Highland scenery. Buckle up.
Easy To Dalwhinnie And Shameful Friends
It's an easy day's ride in The Highlands today although not everything is going quite the way it should. It doesn't help when Ren's friends are shopping for... soap.
Reader's Comments
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Enjoyed that Ed, gotta love Moidart and Sunart.
I'll post the picture from out 2019 BeaST ride at Glenfinnan, we were very, very lucky. The chap let us on the car park too. It was 80 degrees and full sun for days.
Upt.
06/08/2024 23:38:35 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
That's a smashing piccy Upt'. You must have experienced the one dry, warm, sunny and windless day Scotland enjoys every 30 years! I just wish I was back there not. Harumph.
08/08/2024 08:04:12 UTC
nab301 said :-
Ren , your write up almost makes me want to go to Scotland! Sounds like you had a great day even without ideal conditions and that annoying open exhaust Harley!
I'll have to say though that Upts photo on this occasion has trumped yours...
As for advancing years and potential health issues , treat yourself like your motorcycles to some preventive maintenance and get your cholesterol and blood sugar checked regularly ( preferably by a professional in this case.)
Nigel
12/08/2024 12:33:08 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Not had my sugars or cholesterol checked but the nurse checked my blood pressure the other day - 112/77 which apparently is quite acceptable. Are you telling me I can't check my own sugars and cholesterol? Next time I end up bleeding while working on the bike is there not some kind of DIY kit made from baking soda, toilet cleaner, j-cloths and soap I can concoct that will give me accurate results? It's a conspiracy I tell ya!
As for Upt's photo - makes ya sick dunnit.
12/08/2024 12:57:44 UTC
nab301 said :-
Ren , good call on Blood pressure , don't know how I forgot that one! I remember a work colleague who attended a Doctor for some minor issue not having attended for years and ended up leaving the surgery in an ambulance when the Doctors routine blood pressure test revealed life threateningly high pressure , stents were required...
Nigel
14/08/2024 14:48:33 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I find it best not to go to the doctors because they always tell you there's something wrong with you.
16/08/2024 07:01:31 UTC
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Travel StoriesScotland, And A Little Rain