Looking across to the snow capped alpine mountains seen from the back seat of a motorcycle

Home Travel Stories Camping In Scotland 2006 - By Ren Withnell

Camping In Scotland 2006 - Dumfries to Fort William

I wake, early, very early, about 5am. I lie there for as long as I can, drifting in and out of sleep, listening to rain come and go and the incessant din of birdsong. I get up around 8 and do all the normal morning ablutions. The grass is wet but the rain seems to be holding off for the time being. My concerns about the gf sleeping on a thin mattress with her bad back seem to have been needless. She is sleeping still as I start to collect things together. I make enough noise to wake her but I know it will be some time before she is at all functional. Finally she is up, washed, dressed and helping me to pack again.

The A76 is another main road that leads us through rolling hills and easy farmland up towards Kilmarnock. Kilmarnock is obviously close to a big city, it’s a big dreary town with tightly packed streets and too much traffic. The only reason I stop here is to fill up with petrol and carry on. Glasgow is not far away and a grey road with grey skies and grey traffic leads us onto the motorway network. Glasgow is like any other city, too much traffic, too many people, too many industrial estates, too many tower blocks and too many confusing signs to a myriad of places. I get lost but only for a brief moment, I’m soon following signs to the Erskine Bridge.

The Erskine Bridge takes us impressively over the river and out towards Loch Lomond. It’s only when we get through Dumbarton and onto the A82 that we can relax and feel out of the city. Loch Lomond is the start of the magnificent scenery that Scotland has to offer. The rolling hills and farmland give way to massive mountains and vast Lochs. I recall the first time I rode alongside Loch Lomond I thought I had past several large lakes. The map tells me I have passed one single loch. It goes on forever, the road follows it then leads away then back again, it straightens and speeds up, then twists and turns slowly as lorries and caravans travel its length. Small villages selling tea and cakes to tourists pass by and we take a moment to stop at one to rest and refresh. Finally after what seems like a lifetime Loch Lomond is behind us and the signs tell us we are close to Crianlarich. The small town comes and goes and it’s not long until we arrive in Tyndrum, the ultimate bikers’ town.

Loch Lomond, the start of the best scenery
Loch Lomond. Here is where the best scenery starts.

Tyndrum boasts only a few houses, a petrol station and 2 cafes. We stop at the Real Food Cafe and eat. The food is good. Across the road at the Green Welly more bikers and travellers eat and refresh. I don’t know why but this little hamlet services countless bikers and many people I know have either heard of Tyndrum, The Green Welly or The Real Food Café.

Feeling refreshed and full we hit the road again. I know this road will lead us through Glencoe, one of Scotland’s most famous and impressive sites. The road is fast and easy whilst the scenery becomes even more vast and grandiose. It seems now we are out past Loch Lomond that the travelling speeds are increasing. The traffic is thinner on the ground and that which is here seems to want to move along. We are however slowed down by road works before we enter into the walled valley of Glencoe itself. We stop to take pictures and laugh as some poor guy dressed in kilt and traditional highland dress runs to his begging pot as a tour bus pulls onto the car park. He proceeds to play the bagpipes very, very badly whilst tourists have their picture taken with him and toss a few coins into the pot.

The magnificent mountains of Glencoe.

It’s not long before the snow capped Ben Nevis comes into view. We saunter through Fort William and easily find the road out to Mallaig. We know the next campsite should be just outside the little area of Corpach and sure enough there it is, well signposted and well presented. The Linnhe Lochside Park welcomes us with a smart reception area. We are courteously lightened of £12.50 for the pitch and guided to a suitable area. The site has a shop and modern toilet block and a short walk takes you down to the Loch itself. It does not have a bar or restaurant on site so we will need to go back into town.

We pitch again and set everything up as it should be. We have both purchased additional tokens at £1 each for the privilege of a bath. We take these baths and I sit there and wallow in piping hot water as I turn pink and relax. It’s quite a strange thing, having a bath in a cubicle whilst people walk past outside, brush their teeth and shower. No matter, I enjoy it all the same.

Our pitch at Loch Linnhe Campsite. Notice the clothes drying and the tidy tent, how domesticated!

We are comfy and settled and clean. And we are not hungry. The idea of going into town is dismissed and we take a short stroll round the site then settle in early for the night again. The famous Scottish midges are out, the insect repellent is having little effect. Itchy.