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Choo Choos And The Yorkie Disaster
Ride Date 30 Sep 2025
By Ren Withnell
The plan today is to take the short ride into Tywyn, park up, walk to the Talyllyn Preserved Railway station, ride the steam train, and after that we've no further plans. There will be some walking involved - and walking with bike gear is a pain in the backside. We are working on a cunning and devious plan...
Walking in bike boots is OK but sub optimal. We both have with us sturdy walking boots. While these won't offer the full motorcycle boot level of protection - they offer "sufficient" protection - better than the trainers we've seen some folks riding in. Pants. Sharon has her kevlar bike jeans on, they'll be comfy enough. I have my cordura overpants over regular pants, I'll put the overpants into my top box. My kneepads will go into the top box, Sharon's kneepads stay with her bike jeans. We'll keep our jackets and back protectors on, theses don't cause much discomfort.
Today's weather is overcast and grey, gold ol' British weather at it's finest. There's certainly a chance of rain but so far it doesn't look like a washout. We leave Sharon's bike secured by the static and my 500 carries us the 7 miles into Tywyn. Sat-nav does it's thing, even leading us around the road closure in Tywyn town centre. I lock and cable my bike to the railings at the mainline train station and we sort out our clothing accordingly.
We are a sensible hour early. Rather than walk straight to the Talyllyn station we detour to Tywyn beach. We get a little sand on our boots then meander along the prom. It would be nice to tell you Tywyn looks lovely in the sunshine, it'd be more accurate to say Tywyn looks alright on a grey day at the end of September.
Oooh! Choo choo! The steam engine is only a small one - relative to a mainline engine at least. None the less it still has that delightful smell of oil, coal, oily steam, smoke, and dirty overalls. It stands there, hissing gently and warm. Of course a modern electric engine is many times more efficient, quieter and cleaner - but these steam engines breathe, they are visceral, they have character, they feel alive. They leak and drip too, perhaps this is why old men who can't afford their own steam engine have vintage bikes?
The engine is more alive than some of people I've worked with...
I have a brief chat with a volunteer, this fella is currently acting as guard. He's enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and friendly. All the folks running the show (presumably volunteers) are friendly and efficient. I get the feeling the volunteers want to be here and they're enjoying themselves, and that feels good.
We find ourselves in our own carriage! Either we're lucky or no-one wants to sit with the nasty 'orrible bikers? We depart with a judder, it is immediately clear this is no smooth modern welded rail track as we clack then clang, rattle then jolt along the narrow rails between the houses and businesses of Tywyn. When we reach the countryside the driver gives it large, by my estimation we might even reach 20mph but on old narrow tracks with an old train and clunky shaking carriage this is more than fast enough.
Steam, smoke, and scenery. What's not to like?
It's a long time, a very long time indeed since my last memories of being on a "preserved" train, I'd probably have been a child on the Ffestiniog. I'm sure I must have ridden the Talyllyn before too but I cannot access that memory, I may only have been 4 or 5 years old. It is a delight to be jostled and shook around in the carriage, smelling the oily steam while the wonderful Welsh countryside drifts into and out of view. Hills and valleys, footpaths through the trees, miniscule toytown stations, it's all here.
We sit and we chat. We admire and ponder. The little stations come and go and it takes a whole hour to travel the staggering distance of 7.25 miles to the final stop - Nant Gwernol. We have 8 minutes (no more no less) break while the engine swaps ends. We stretch our legs on the path close by then reboard.
Swapping ends at Nant Gwernol.
There's a short run to Abergynolwyn station where our timetable allows a 32 minute (no more no less) break. This is clearly chosen to allow we weary travellers time to spend money on a brew and cake in the little cafe there. We take a 10 minute walk along a path before we quickly throw a brew down our necks then we are reboarding.
Our little carriage that was behind the steam engine on the outward leg is now at the back of the train - and we are joined by a few travellers. They are from Australia! It is hard to imagine travelling half way around the globe merely to sit aboard a rattling ancient train - but people do. In fairness they're here visiting family and this is a day out for them. Phew!
I'd say 2 hours with a half hour break is about right - for me. I've enjoyed the journey, I think the Talyllyn has done exactly what they said they'd do and for a fair price, and it all works in a clattering, juddering and wonderfully steamy way. All good but enough, thank you Tallylln and all your volunteers.
Thankfully my bike is where we left it, unmolested and unticketed. I unlock and we rearrange everything ready to ride. It's only 1345, it's not raining and we have the rest of the day to enjoy. Sharon had spotted a waterfall somewhere near Dolgoch station, I find it on Google maps and set up sat-nav.
The 5 miles to Dolgoch is easy and there's a car park. We do pay for parking but someone has already stolen our ticket, that's why there isn't one. It's deathly quiet here anyhow, save for one other car. The walk to the falls is easy, beside the river, between the trees and under a tall brick bridge - upon which passes the train we've just been on. Sharon takes plenty of pictures... and then we have a disaster.
The Talyllyn train runs over this bridge.
Sharon is always happy in nature... but not for long!
Sharon's Yorkie is missing. For reasons unknown Sharon has developed a massive craving for Yorkie bars. We have double checked to make sure she's not pregnant, she assures me she's not becoming a truck driver, and we've checked to see if she's still a girl. I personally think 13 years of motorcycling in all weathers must be toughening her up enough to handle such a butch manly chocolate bar.
If you think the above paragraph is sexist and you find yourself triggered - check out Yorkie on Wiki to understand the context.
I have my Yorkie and in a rare (rare implies it does happen sometimes, it's more accurate to say impossible) twist of fate I kindly, generously, and graciously (begrudgingly) give her one solitary chunk of mine. Sharon looks like she's lost ten grand and found a 5p coin. You know what it's like when you're looking forward to something for it only not to happen? Yeah, that.
As we walk back Sharon is despondent. I think she wishes it was raining and we're facing a 500 mile ride rather than being without her Yorkie. Then - beside the path - hiding in plain sight - is the blue Yorkie bar! The sun comes out, birds tweet in the branches, pixies skip across the fields, and the world achieves peace and harmony! She probably yanked it out of her pocket when getting her phone out to take piccies. All is well save for one tiny hiccup... I want a chunk from her bar to compensate for the one I gave her from mine.
Rather than head straight back we follow the B4405 north west to the A487. Llyn Mwyngil looks wild and rugged, The A487 is fast and flowing, Dolgellau is familiar these days in a pleasing way, and it's a pleasure to ride this afternoon. We're soon back at the static and parking the bike on the flags beside Sharon's.
Palm trees? Yes palm trees beside Llyn Mwyngil. Must be tropical here.
The evening is chilled out. Food is prepared and consumed, Fred Dibnah holds up more traffic on the telly, the shower is so powerful we don't have a shower, we are jetwashed, it's all perfectly normal and not a lot happens in the best way possible.
Oh! I seem to be missing over half of mother's ashes, one of the plastic pots is empty. How did that happen I wonder?
Advertise here - contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
The Excuse This Time Is 2 Deaths
They're off back to Wales. The reasons this time are unusual and some might say quite sad. Fear not, Ren's prudence will make a mockery out of respect.
Getting To The Static
There's the odd minor hiccup but the first day's ride to Llwyngwri (I have no idea how to say that...) is an easy one. Ren is struggling with parking.
Choo Choos And The Yorkie Disaster
Today is mostly steam powered with a little motorcycling to one side. Sharon experiences another personal loss, a terrible tragedy.
Reader's Comments
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Wales! Wales? I thought you were in Skeggy. I can't keep up. You must have toooooo many holidays. Not Sharon though, she deserves her time off.
Misogynistic pig!
You're welcome.
Upt.
05/12/2025 11:14:26 UTC
nab301 said :-
For some reason I've developed a craving for a Yorkie bar...
Nigel
05/12/2025 14:13:07 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
So Upt. Presently appearing on this site is - Ahem - The Kilmarnock trip, the trip to Dad's, Marlboroough, and Elan Valley, Andy's trip presently in the Pyrenees, this trip to Tywyn, AND the Skeggy one. AND AND AND Bogger has furnished me with a trip to France so that'll be coming soon too!
You think you're confused - I have no idea what's going on.
nab301 - go on, treat yaself, grab a Yorkie. This comment is brought to you by Rowntree, or Nestle, or Cadbury, I can't recall...
Nestle, Wiki sez it's Nestle.
05/12/2025 15:05:22 UTC
Bogger said :-
Mwah, the railway children ride again.
I was also beginning to fret that a loved pet dog had gone missing.
Click bait, I think they call it.
Bogger
06/12/2025 05:43:57 UTC
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