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Travel StoriesUpt's Autumn Bimble 2024
Could Etna Be Any Better?
Days 15 to 19......maybe. Who's counting.
By Upt' North
So here we were at the port. "Ay up me duck I'll just check with that chap in the shed that our ticket is all good". It didn't go well, after much shrugging of shoulders, umming and aahing, a bit more shrugging, the info I had was no good.
"OK I'll just buy another ticket". It wasn't expensive and I was at the ticket office. What could go wrong?
"You buy your tickets at the railway station". Only in Italy!
Thankfully I'd seen the railway station on the way to the port and it wasn't too far away, but, really, only in blummin Italy. €20 and ten minutes later I was back with a new return ticket. Pffffffftttttt. The heat was becoming a bit much standing around but in no time the ferry arrived and we were off. This isn't a tie your bike down type of trip, it's a stand around because it don't take long.
I don't know if the heat had got to the Garmin but it was insistent on taking us to Palermo and that wasn't going to happen. After coffee, cannolis and a reset we were on our way. When we stopped at the cafe to gather our thoughts the locals were the most welcoming folk you could hope to find. We felt good. Hooray.
The ride to our accommodation for the next two nights was entertaining. We'd experienced Italian drivers for many hundreds of miles but this was Italian x 2 and the roads were dire. 100% concentration was required, unfortunately all I could think of was cold beer.
The view from the digs wasn't too shabby at all, that's the mainland over the water. Beer was good too.
The next day was just a ride where we like day and after an earlyish start we rode around here.
Mount Etna didn't disappoint, great roads, open fast bends and little traffic. And yes, coffee and cannolis. It took about three hours to get around it and that was followed by lunch at a seafood restaurant on the coast. If there is a heaven, it would be like this. Smooth tarmac, sweeping bends and a warm breeze, followed by excellent seafood. All on your bike of choice. On reflection... this was heaven.
After another great night, if you ignore the mossies, we were to head back to Messina and back to the mainland for a ride up the East coast of Italy. We were about 2400 miles in, the bike was checked and we were all good. It had been glorious to ride it around Etna, plenty quick enough and scraping the boots. Sicily felt rushed but the trip called.
The ticket worked at the port and we chatted to locals on a 1200GS, who couldn't believe we'd ridden there and were now hoping to ride back. It didn't seem odd to us.
Sicily and the ride around Etna had been spiritual, one of the best day rides of my life, Er'Indoors agreed. Once back to the town of drunks and unhelpful port attendants we headed north before turning east towards Puglia. Tonight's stay was at a country B&B type place, it turned out to be the best accommodation and food of the trip. I'll mention it just in case someone fancies a visit. www.ilpago.eu
The roads were dry, hot, occasionally windy and hot. Did I say it was hot? They were also fairly innocuous and mundane. But they did their job. Within 5 minutes of landing we were drinking beer with the daughter of the owner who had also found a resting place for B. She was looking mucky by now. We ate and drank like royalty and after a very nice night and breakfast, Puglia and Abruzzo called loudly.
We didn't know what to expect from Abruzzo, but stunning sums it up. The roads became more bike worthy and the scenery was... er... stunning. Sea, Hills, Mountains, Vineyards and Olive Groves, all in capitals.
This is where we would rest for the night but the schedule meant we needed to move on to Northern Italy tomorrow. Would we get to ride through the Dolomites on the way home, the weather check could be left for another day. Surely it can't be wet, snowy, windy, flooded, complete with a plague of locusts, again? Pffffffftttttt.
This is Abruzzo. Well a bit of it and this is where we stayed the night.
Keeping to the East coast we ended up in Milano Maritimo, it was still stinking hot and tonight we would check the forecast. Would it be Austria or Turin?
Upt and Er'Indoors.
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From Coal To Dole
These notes from the road provide a concise review of Upt's first 4 days of his European excursion. He makes it all sound so easy!
Form Dole To A Hole That's Closed
Things don't go quite as planned for Upt' today but don't panic - all's well that ends well.
There's Drivers From Hell And Doggy Smell
More random notes from Upt's road trip through Italy. There's a brief romance of the Canine kind and an opinion piece covering Italian driving. Suffice to say Upt's opinion ain't favourable.
Lots Of Fun And Lots Of Sun
Upt' is enjoying the weather but keeps on asking "what could go wrong?". There's a sense of foreshadowing, or is he leading us a merry dance?
Could Etna Be Any Better?
Save for a very minor ticketing issue Upt' and Er'Indoors remain blessed with sunshine, idyllic scenery, delightful food and fabulous roads. Some folks have all the luck eh?
Reader's Comments
Bogger said :-
U´pt, where´s the hardship, where is the tent, why no break downs. What`s with the with the nice hotels?
We need to have a chat, so I can put you on the straight and narrow as to the whys, where fores and trials and tribulations of motorcycle touring.
Oh one last thing. Your bike is far too big and powerful.
You have got it all wrong!
Or perhaps I have? Hmm, there·s a thought. I·m very confused now.
Keep up the good work
Bogger
21/02/2025 09:35:09 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Sorry Bogger, is it me?
I actually think a tour with the boys, playing with your tiddlers has a lot of merit. For myself leisure motorcycling has been a two up affair for around 30 years, starting with day rides on the SOHC, then British tours on the CBF before venturing overseas on it.
After relocating 250 miles north to the frozen tundra of North Northumberland we missed the bike and within two years bought the "stop gap" Pan for local jaunts. It was actually a great way to get to see our new surroundings, something we wouldn't have done in the car. Why wud ya?
Within twelve months we had itchy feet and the Pan put on 25,000 touring miles very quickly....Italy, Italy, so good we did it twice, Portugal, Spain, France, Slovenia and all the Alpine locations.
All with a pillion and luggage.
The Pan was getting on a bit and to be honest it was becoming a bit of a maul. A great bike and still in good condition but at over half a tonne loaded with us and clean pants it was at times a BeaST.
So what to do, buy two tiddlers and ride together, that wasn't going to happen, Er'Indoors like er sleep on the road. That is whilst on the back, whilst travelling. I know.
No it was time for some'at more suitable for an aging tall person and his sleepy companion, enter the VSTrom. It was love at first site, although surgery would be required, it would hopefully enable more gadding about. Which it thankfully does.
Could we have gone smaller? I'm open to suggestions but I can't think of anything I'd prefer to ride at the moment more than the sorted STrom.
I really have no desire to lie in the dirt, but even if I did we would need a Goldwing and trailer for two up camping....some things just ain't gonna happen, including riding a GW. Er'Indoors hates them with a passion.
So, is it you, is it me. Yes.....thankfully.
Upt.
21/02/2025 11:08:34 UTC
nab301 said :-
UPT, don't mind bogger , I think you've nailed this trip with the ideal size bike and the accommodation, the scenery looks great too .
Nigel
21/02/2025 13:02:25 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Look, it wasn't me, I threw nowt in the outlet.
It was me wasn't it?
Does this happen to others? I remember getting on a plane in Slovenia and there were tanks rolling into the airport car park, the war started in the next ten minutes!
It's me.
https://volcano.si.edu/volcano.cfm?vn=211060...
22/02/2025 09:53:18 UTC
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Travel StoriesUpt's Autumn Bimble 2024