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Travel StoriesUpt's Autumn Bimble 2024
There's Drivers From Hell And Doggy Smell
Days 6 - 9
By Upt' North
Day 6... Saw us arrive in Versilia, near Pisa but like I said on the coast.
The Autostrada drive down was hundreds of bridges and tunnels. At the entry to each bridge and several times over each bridge there is a metal joiner, sort of like interconnected teeth. If you imagine hitting a good pothole at 80 mph a few hundred times a day you'll be pretty close to the experience.
The quality of driving got predictably worse and was at times a little entertaining. At least the bogs were free. When they overtake you they will never return to the inner lane fully, it would be a sign of weakness. If they get a call/text/Facebook-like, they will brake from 80 to almost a stop right in front of you. If you're overtaking anything at any speed there will always be a white 3.5 tonne Fiat van within 1 metre or 39 inches of your top box. You cannot outrun this Fiat van, don't even try. Fiat must make a van for their home market with a V12, 48 valve engine.
We got to Versilia in good time despite the road gymkhana and it happened again. They gave us the wrong room. Two large balconies, sea view and dinner is pre booked Sir and Madam You what? Weird. The pool was a lovely temperature!
Day 7 to 9, I think... Yesterday's autoroutes were vile, if it wasn't the bridges trying to kill you the drivers were clearly there to finish you off. But they do enable you to cover distance and with a good 1000 miles behind us it was time to sample some of the perfectly smooth and quieter roads, we couldn't find any, but it was definitely time!
The B had spent the night in the underground car park ("no charge sir, it was our pleasure, enjoy your ride". What is going on?) We set off after a free breakfast for the extremities of Pisa and then onto Rome before diving into the Ostia region for the night. Local roads were utilised where we could but the autoroutes were used to bypass the cities. We were staying at a very nice vineyard, renovated in a very nice way. It was a good night and set us up for our ride down to the Amalfi coast.
Yes, Er'Indoors is touching the bike, and yes, she was admonished. On the ride down to Ostia we had the first proper rain of the trip. We had a heavy shower further north but this had been wet. The weather was set to warm up going south and rain would hopefully be watering someone else. It rained so hard on the Rome ring road it woke Er'Indoors up. I kid you not. Pffffffftttttt. Does anyone else carry a pillion that can sleep, a lot?
Today would be treated like yesterday, easy 200 mile days and mix it up with the locals a little. Riding around Naples, on the bypass obviously, Vesuvius was mightily impressive.
We would be staying overnight just inland from the Amalfi coast and just before arriving we got in a queue in a long tunnel with an accident in the distance. It was hot in there, it had climbed to about 85 f's during the day but in the tunnel the gauge was reading 33, I think, it was hot and sticky. I think 33 in imperial is borderline daft, especially with the liners in your jackets.
It was a two way single carriageway road and the scooterists were just riding flat out down the centre. Horns and flashing lights were the norm but they seemed to be enjoying themselves. I was filtering best I could but we were over a yard wide and that's a problem when the gap is 2'11". But we survived and after another accident hold up we reached the digs. The mosquitoes had got there before us.
Coffee on the way down and view from the Agroturismo.
We had an apartment booked for the next night and the next 6 after that if we wanted at Castellabate on the coast. This would the furthest south we'd ever been in Italy. The day ride south was a steady doddle of a ride, Er'Indoors got er sleep in.
One of the highlights was Darma, she was a beaut, but she had crapped in er top box. But who hasn't? Whilst our new friend Stefano was washing er pad off we were on dog duties. It was a good lunch. They were riding the length of Italy from Como to Palermo. Darma said she would write, but nowt, not a sausage. Such are holiday romances I spose. Stefano seemed impressed that a couple of geriatrics had made it this far alive. So were we.
The B had its very own spot, Castellabate was blummin lovely and our minds turned to where next, day rides, wine, Darma, wine. Now you see, Darma was going to Sicily, now there's a thought?
Upt.
Publish your own tale - click here.
From Coal To Dole
These notes from the road provide a concise review of Upt's first 4 days of his European excursion. He makes it all sound so easy!
Form Dole To A Hole That's Closed
Things don't go quite as planned for Upt' today but don't panic - all's well that ends well.
There's Drivers From Hell And Doggy Smell
More random notes from Upt's road trip through Italy. There's a brief romance of the Canine kind and an opinion piece covering Italian driving. Suffice to say Upt's opinion ain't favourable.
Reader's Comments
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Ed, forgot to say/write.
When leaving Ostia riding south we were drawn to The Appian Way. I blame it on education, you read about some'at interesting and then when I saw it on the map I thought why not do a few miles down there. I was convinced it was an ancient trading route bringing goods from Greece to the infernal city.
I wasn't disappointed, it hadn't been resurfaced in 2000 years and provided an authentic romamic experience.
Pffffffftttttt.
25/12/2024 00:07:36 UTC
nab301 said :-
Upt , I can confirm those white Fiat vans travel just as fast in my part of the world.
Ren wants to know how you can travel vast distances whilst keeping the bike so clean...
The Appian way looks great , not at all like the one near me!
Nigel
31/12/2024 11:15:28 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
When we're talking of these high speed Fiat vans are we talking of the "just a bit smaller than a transit van" and the "same as the Peugeot Expert and Citroen Dispatch" vans? AKA the Fiat Scudo. Or the larger Ducato upon which it seems almost ALL motorhomes are now based on?
06/01/2025 08:02:01 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
The big uns Ed. All you can see in your mirrors is a slab of Fiat white, the TAIF badge and the drivers eyes. You can obviously also clearly see the pizza in one hand and the mobile in the other.
06/01/2025 09:39:01 UTC
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Travel StoriesUpt's Autumn Bimble 2024