A motorcycle parked in front of a tent on a pleasant green campsite

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A Cafe Lost In Time And A Funfair

Day 11

By Bogger

In the morning everywhere was sodden, but it had stopped raining. This was only to be a temporary lull though. We packed away as quick as we could before the heavens opened again. It was such a stark change from yesterday's weather. Today it was proper grim and cold. 

The Welsh contingent - Nige, Jason, and Ash - disappeared into the gloom, leaving myself Pete and Fatboy to bring up the rear a couple of minutes later. We were all heading for Ypres, in Belgium. After only a couple of miles it was lashing down, smashing.

It's only 130 miles to Ypres from Soissons, but it seemed to take us ages. We'd forgone breakfast again, just to get away before the deluge. About an hour into the journey we stop and decide to find a café on route to get something to eat and drink. Bearing in mind this is now mid-morning on Saturday, every café we pass is closed. We resign ourselves to going hungry and thirsty. 

Thirty miles or so before Ypres, still on French soil, I spy a café, in the middle of nowhere, at the side of the busy main road, with the front door open. We park the bikes up and wander inside. We must have walked through some type of time warp. Outside was the 21st century, inside we were back in the 1940's. 

The cafe on the street corner with ancient signs and looking very tired

The place was just like Renee Artois café in "Hello, Hello". Nothing had changed inside for at least 80yrs. It was very strange. There was a chap, not Renne, behind the little corner bar. He must have been well into his eighties. We exchanged pleasantries and I ordered three large coffees. His wife appeared from the back room a couple of minutes later with the smallest coffee cups I have ever seen in my life. 

All the time we were waiting I couldn't take my eyes off the décor, the mirrors, the advertising signs, in fact everything. Places like this really don't exist anymore. I was mesmerised, in a good, but sad sort of a way. 

Worn out signs and scruffy brickwork of the cafe

I think the three coffees were just over 5 Euros, I gave him ten and told him to keep the change. I dearly wanted to take some photos of the inside, but didn’t want to appear rude. I did take some from the outside which gives you a hint of what lay behind the front door.

We get on our way again and arrive at the campsite early afternoon. The last hour of riding had been dry but it was still very overcast. Whilst we're talking while setting up, Nige is amazed at the fuel economy of his CB125F. It's averaging in the region of 168mpg. He proudly exclaims that his Coleman petrol stove has used more fuel on this trip than his bike.

2 tent and 2 Cub 125s at the campsite in Ypres among the trees

We take in the emotional service and last post at the Menin Gate and then partake of some food and Belgium beer. We do this just for a comparison, of course. We need to know how the Belgium beer compares to the French beer we've been sampling. 

The large Menin Gate building with the front covered in Scaffold and a tower crane behind

Later on in the evening it gets a little out of hand when certain members of the group decide to have a go on the fairground rides in the town square. They couldn’t walk straight before they got on the rides, They certainly couldn’t when they got off. Kids! Back home tomorrow.

A blurry nighttime image of the bright lights on a ride in the streets of Ypres


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Let The Chaos Commence It's a typical start to a trip and overall things seem to be going well. Except for the weather. And the traffic. And the suspect motorcycles. And the disorganisation.
The Chaos Increases Whilst muppetry and stupidity abound the world needs a hero - in the meantime Bogger will have to do. Fear not brave reader, there is still light at the end of the tunnel. I fear it may be a train coming towards this lot...
More Progress, Less Chaos It's a considerably less chaotic day for Bogger and pals as they make their way south through France. And yet they encounter muppetry on the roads and something's been troubling our heroic author.
And Finally The Alps! There's a disappointing level of breakdowns and mayhem for Bogger et al today. Luckily the stunning scenery and clement weather makes up for this. Shame about the traffic eh.
A Lazy Day In Barcelonnette In an unexpected turn of events - today is definitely lacking in chaos. It's just a quiet, peaceful and pleasant day for Bogger's crew. It'd be perfect if he could buy the right beer.
A High Mountain Pass And High Prices Without any disasters or mayhem let's hope Bogger's climb up one of Europe's highest roads comes with some spectacular images.
Inappropriate Alpine Off-Roading Bogger et al take a dirt track shortcut across The Alps. It'll be fine, I mean he's still here to write up this report isn't he? There's also a video to accompany the words in case you're not convinced.
More Mountains And Mayhem After achieving the impossible yesterday today's journey is merely improbable. This time the Col de l'Iseran is the challenge alongside a regular dose of disaster.
The Business Of Miles It's a short one from Bogger today. They're in the business of clocking up miles in the hope of getting home on time, there's not enough time for tomfoolery. Oddly there's always time for a beer though.
Miles, More Miles, Cafes And Campsites Many more miles on the French roads today along with cafes and pretty French towns. This is still very much the business of getting back to blighty, more's the shame.
A Cafe Lost In Time And A Funfair It's another hard day on the road for Bogger and pals. They enter a time warp in search of refreshment, take a moment to remember, then get giddy at the fair.
A Very Brief Epilogue Just a brief note from Bogger as he wraps up his Alpine Adventures on a Cub 125. It's only a short 355 miles today.

Reader's Comments

Upt'North ¹ said :-
Well? How did the beer compare?
And have some breakfast!
20/08/2024 13:12:36 UTC
nab301 said :-
Brilliant! you were in a Cafe decorated with paintings of the Fallen Madonna and served by the lovely Yvette...
I'm curious , what year is the CB125F Honda ? I'm guessing it's the '21 on model with the ESP engine? My'19 model will only do 130mpg at a push. 168mpg sounds great.

Nigel
22/08/2024 12:04:44 UTC
Bogger said :-
Upt, the beer was lovely. But a lot stronger than the French beer we'd tried, Hic Burp.

Alas the lady that served the coffee was not Yvette or Mimi. More like Rennes mother in law, but older!

Yes Niges bike is a 21 model, the one with the offset crank/cylinder.

As for breakfast. I need to stop eating lunch and dinner as well.

Bogger
23/08/2024 08:36:13 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
"lunch" and "dinner"?!?! Tha's talkin like a suvvenor Bogger, it's dinner 'n' tea. Pffffft

23/08/2024 13:04:17 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Afternoon or high?
Ignore him Bogger, he's common.
23/08/2024 13:26:21 UTC
Bogger said :-
It's dinner and tea where I is from. However I was trying to drag this website up by its somewhat scruffy lapels.

I'll not bother in future.

Boggeur
23/08/2024 15:24:17 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
There are loads of those sort of places in France, where the decor hasn't changed in decades. Not like here where pubs seem to need a makeover every few years to suit the latest fashion. And who pays?

Yet another thing I like about France as well as the relaxed opening hours and the universal (well maybe not in Paris) civility.
23/08/2024 15:59:23 UTC

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