Camchain and tensioner seen up close in a cutaway bike engine

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Inappropriate Alpine Off-Roading

Day 7

By Bogger

Today we leave Barcelonnette behind as we continue our travels. Our campsite for tonight is Camping la Fontaine, not far from Eygliers. But first we have to get there. Consulting our tour guide, Nige, I ask how far we have to travel today? He points at the mountains we're facing and said it's over that mountain. It's not far about seventy miles.

He explains very briefly that there are two ways to get there. Either the road, obviously, or there is a "type of road cum farm track" that takes a more direct route. Ok Nige, when you say farm track, what type of farm track? Err a bit like the one we go to in Wales, but longer. That sounds ok, we'll do that then, says the idiot that I am.

A very twisting and dusty dirt track wriggles and wendles it's way up a valley in the Alps

Once we were on "the farm track" there was no turning back. This farm track (my arse) was practically vertical in places. It was heavily rutted with loose stones and boulders the full length. The full length being about twenty five angst ridden, fearful and downright scary miles.

I'm sure you’ve seen videos of "The World's most dangerous roads". Well this was probably one of them. I have absolutely no head for heights. The track varied from about six foot to twelve foot wide with near vertical drops off to one side. It just went up and up. I hated every minute of it. Apart from being scared half to death, it felt like I was wrecking the Honda Cub. I lost count of the number of times the sump clattered against a rock or boulder or indeed how the rutted track forced you to death's edge, then back to safety again.

On a rocky and gravel road a small innova 125 passes a large 4x4 overlander truck

We got split up along the route and three of us had a rest about, as it turns out, half way up. We didn't know how far we had to go, but the mountains still loomed large above us. We had come so far you really just couldn't turn back. 

When we finally reached the top I was shattered and a bit de-hydrated. The summit of Col de Parpaillon is about 8,900ft above sea level. At the top there were a couple of expedition type 4x4s and three or four adventure/trail bikes. The look on their faces as we trundled, very slowly, to the top on the 125s, fully laden with camping gear, was a site to behold.

 

 

Luckily we had all made it to the top without major mishap. Pete's top box (who else) had been jarred open on the ascent and he'd lost his coveted tin Evel Knievel mug, the rice and curry for tonight's meal, a glove, a fork and an onion. LOL.

Oh God, what's the descent going to be like? There’s a tunnel at the top we have to get through first, which is pitch black, half a kilometre long and just as rough as the track and full of water. The first three miles going back down are as rough and hair raising as going up. Thankfully it then starts to smooth out a bit before we hit the potholed tarmac. Near the bottom we have another stop to get our breath and Pete finds that his box of wine he's been carrying, has split open in his top box. The bloke's a disaster.

Ahh, to be back on normal roads again. Only a couple of dozen miles and were peeling off for the Campsite. We set up camp next to the river and I have a good look at the Cub. Like everyone else's bike, it's utterly filthy but none the worse for wear. Even the engine cases are fine. Seeing as the curry has gone west half way up a mountain, a couple of the lads head to the nearest village for pizza. The rest of us head to the outside campsite bar. Where else? What a stressful day that was, for me at least. After pizza and beer we amble back to the tents for a well earned rest.

The numberplate and back of Bogger's Honda Cub is covered in light brown dirty and dust


Share your tale - click here.

Let The Chaos Commence It's a typical start to a trip and overall things seem to be going well. Except for the weather. And the traffic. And the suspect motorcycles. And the disorganisation.
The Chaos Increases Whilst muppetry and stupidity abound the world needs a hero - in the meantime Bogger will have to do. Fear not brave reader, there is still light at the end of the tunnel. I fear it may be a train coming towards this lot...
More Progress, Less Chaos It's a considerably less chaotic day for Bogger and pals as they make their way south through France. And yet they encounter muppetry on the roads and something's been troubling our heroic author.
And Finally The Alps! There's a disappointing level of breakdowns and mayhem for Bogger et al today. Luckily the stunning scenery and clement weather makes up for this. Shame about the traffic eh.
A Lazy Day In Barcelonnette In an unexpected turn of events - today is definitely lacking in chaos. It's just a quiet, peaceful and pleasant day for Bogger's crew. It'd be perfect if he could buy the right beer.
A High Mountain Pass And High Prices Without any disasters or mayhem let's hope Bogger's climb up one of Europe's highest roads comes with some spectacular images.
Inappropriate Alpine Off-Roading Bogger et al take a dirt track shortcut across The Alps. It'll be fine, I mean he's still here to write up this report isn't he? There's also a video to accompany the words in case you're not convinced.
More Mountains And Mayhem After achieving the impossible yesterday today's journey is merely improbable. This time the Col de l'Iseran is the challenge alongside a regular dose of disaster.
The Business Of Miles It's a short one from Bogger today. They're in the business of clocking up miles in the hope of getting home on time, there's not enough time for tomfoolery. Oddly there's always time for a beer though.
Miles, More Miles, Cafes And Campsites Many more miles on the French roads today along with cafes and pretty French towns. This is still very much the business of getting back to blighty, more's the shame.
A Cafe Lost In Time And A Funfair It's another hard day on the road for Bogger and pals. They enter a time warp in search of refreshment, take a moment to remember, then get giddy at the fair.
A Very Brief Epilogue Just a brief note from Bogger as he wraps up his Alpine Adventures on a Cub 125. It's only a short 355 miles today.

Reader's Comments

Upt'North ¹ said :-
If you think the road will be shite.
It then starts off shite.
Then turns more like shite, it'll probably be shite.
One of lifes golden rules, go with your gut.
But Pizza and Beer probably helped.
That set up on the back of the pick up looks snazzy.
Upt.


05/07/2024 10:59:54 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Yes, that's probably the kind of thing Sharon neeeds on the back of Ren's bike. May slow it down a bit though.
05/07/2024 11:24:08 UTC
nab301 said :-
Thanks to Bogger and pals for actually riding the trail and to Ren for presumably editing the video .
@ Bogger , despite mentioning that you hated it , I'm sure there was a sense of achievement at the end of the day!
Nigel
05/07/2024 14:26:57 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
I think our Bogger just hated it. Hated riding it, hated cleaning the crap off everything, hated buying the Ibuprofen, hated Nigel, hated life until the beer and wine subdued his memory.
Pffffffftttttt.
05/07/2024 16:23:19 UTC
Bogger said :-
After it was over, it was all good. But at the time I was not particularly happy to be there. It's a pity the footage is a bit grainy. The actual footage I took was pin sharp. Nice one, for taking the time to load it onto you tube Ren.

Bogger
05/07/2024 19:41:20 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I quite fancy taking a diminutive Cub 125 over that pass myself, Sharon took one look at the video and said a resounding "NOPE!". I figure if I was to ever ride that route I'll let Sharon go via the roads, eh. Having looked on the maps the road route still looks extremely wonderful.
08/07/2024 07:47:38 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
That's funny Ed, because I quite fancy YOU taking a bog seat over every unmade pass in the Alps. Twice!
You're welcome.
Upt.
09/07/2024 12:36:48 UTC
Bogger said :-
Just remembered. Whilst climbing the off road pass, a large marmot passed the track in front of me and scuttled up the side of the mountain.

I'd never seen a Marmot before. I doubt he'd seen a fat old bloke on a cub either for that matter.

Bogger
09/07/2024 21:37:41 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
The marmot could just about cope with one fat old bloke on a 125, it was the sight of 5 of them that done him in.
10/07/2024 07:15:35 UTC
Rev. Mick! said :-
Brilliant.
Cubs really can be persuaded to go anywhere.
15/07/2024 08:16:59 UTC
KiwiJeff said :-
Fantastic effort Bogger, loved the video, the sound of the cub working it's way up the hill was awesome, great wee bikes. A C90 was our only transport through a wet Wellington winter when we were broke. Riding two up home after my wife's late night restaurant shifts in the rain and wind that bike did it all, slowly, but never let us down.
15/07/2024 11:59:54 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
"LUXURY!!! When I wur a lad there were 15 of us all onboard one bicycle, cycling to work for 9 hours there, 9 hours back, all uphill both ways and working a 37 hour shift. Our bicycle had one wheel, no tyre and no seat. Times wur 'ard but we wur 'appy"
15/07/2024 13:07:21 UTC

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