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More Mountains And Mayhem
Day 8
By Bogger
We're all up at seven and packed away for nine. We've forgone breakfast this morning, it'll not do us any harm.
We've got a fair bit of ground to cover today. We start to head north west in the direction of Briancon, taking in the still stunning scenery and roads. On the way we pass a massive "Mountaineering Man" statue and take the opportunity for a break and a photo or two. At Briancon we refuel the bikes and our fuel containers. We also stock up on some food to eat during the journey to todays destination - Beaufort.
Briancon was a very busy and steep Alpine town. A lot of the hotels were in the alpine lodge style and looked very enticing, but not for the likes of us hard core campers. More's the pity. We climb forever upwards out of Briancon along the smooth tarmac. We did come across some poor cyclist who'd either been knocked off or fell off on one of the tight hairpins. He was being attended to, but didn't look in great shape. The speeds some of the sports bikes were doing round the tight bends were frightening at times.
We spot the signs for Italy and head, now mainly downhill, for the Italian town of Susa. The weather is glorious and warm, apart from when we enter a series of tunnels on the descent. They were very cold.
As soon as we're over the border and into the first town in Italy there is a massive traffic jam, typical. Can I just say the last town we went through in France was only about thirty miles behind us. Now it might be just me but the towns of France seemed a lot cleaner and better kept than the Italian ones!
We manage to filter through most of the traffic and once on the other side take a break and eat some of the food we bought in Briancon. Onwards and for the time being, downwards, to Susa. Susa was much smaller than I expected, it was however very pretty with plenty of café bars spilling out onto the street.
Now it was time to start climbing again, the next port of call was the summit of the mountain Col de L'Iseran, skiing territory. Some way out of Susa there was a viewing platform where you can take in the vast valleys below, looking towards Lake Annecy in the far distance. It was take your breath away spectacular!
I have no real recollection of how far we travelled form Susa to the top of Col de L'Iseran. The only thing I do know is that it took hours. Hours of 1st and 2nd gear, for miles and miles on end. It was really hard work and the small engines were gasping for breath all the time due to the altitude and gradient.
Without fail, every steep hairpin switchback I encountered I got wrong. Not the line I was taking, but the throttle control. It went something like this. OK I'm in second gear I'll take this line. Fine. Wait until the apex is reached, now open the throttle. Alas, every time I opened the throttle it was too late. The engine would start to bog down and first would need to be selected. The throttle really needed to be opened before the apex, but it just didn’t seem safe/right to do so. Ah well.
The more we climbed the colder and windier it got. By the time we got to the top it was proper cold and blowing a gale. It's a great spot for a photo and we duly obliged. Pete carried on his tradition of being able to ruin a good day. His Cub toppled off it's centre stand smashing the screen in the process. I just shook my head and walked away.
On the way down the other side Of the Col de L'Iseran was the ski resort of Val D'Isere. Every spare piece of rock in Val D'Isere had a hotel plonked on it. Well there is a profit to be had. The ski lifts were precariously clinging to the rocky outcrops. Val D'Isere is not a big place and we're soon through it and carrying on into the valley below. We take the time for another stop and finish off the food we'd purchased earlier.
We trundle, knackered, into our campsite for the night at about 5pm. It was an early night for all of us. Just one footnote, on the road down towards Val D'Isere we all thought we were riding really well. Really well, until a cyclist came flying past us, downhill and disappeared into the distance.
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Let The Chaos Commence
It's a typical start to a trip and overall things seem to be going well. Except for the weather. And the traffic. And the suspect motorcycles. And the disorganisation.
The Chaos Increases
Whilst muppetry and stupidity abound the world needs a hero - in the meantime Bogger will have to do. Fear not brave reader, there is still light at the end of the tunnel. I fear it may be a train coming towards this lot...
More Progress, Less Chaos
It's a considerably less chaotic day for Bogger and pals as they make their way south through France. And yet they encounter muppetry on the roads and something's been troubling our heroic author.
And Finally The Alps!
There's a disappointing level of breakdowns and mayhem for Bogger et al today. Luckily the stunning scenery and clement weather makes up for this. Shame about the traffic eh.
A Lazy Day In Barcelonnette
In an unexpected turn of events - today is definitely lacking in chaos. It's just a quiet, peaceful and pleasant day for Bogger's crew. It'd be perfect if he could buy the right beer.
A High Mountain Pass And High Prices
Without any disasters or mayhem let's hope Bogger's climb up one of Europe's highest roads comes with some spectacular images.
Inappropriate Alpine Off-Roading
Bogger et al take a dirt track shortcut across The Alps. It'll be fine, I mean he's still here to write up this report isn't he? There's also a video to accompany the words in case you're not convinced.
More Mountains And Mayhem
After achieving the impossible yesterday today's journey is merely improbable. This time the Col de l'Iseran is the challenge alongside a regular dose of disaster.
The Business Of Miles
It's a short one from Bogger today. They're in the business of clocking up miles in the hope of getting home on time, there's not enough time for tomfoolery. Oddly there's always time for a beer though.
Miles, More Miles, Cafes And Campsites
Many more miles on the French roads today along with cafes and pretty French towns. This is still very much the business of getting back to blighty, more's the shame.
A Cafe Lost In Time And A Funfair
It's another hard day on the road for Bogger and pals. They enter a time warp in search of refreshment, take a moment to remember, then get giddy at the fair.
Reader's Comments
nab301 said :-
Long days , early nights , being passed by cyclists , the shame of it all !.
Nigel
17/07/2024 16:08:48 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
No breakfast!
NO BREAKFAST?
Meh.
17/07/2024 23:21:35 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
You should try it one day Upt', I'm sure you'd survive.
It seems there must be a "Pete" in most groups. Sharon and I know a "Pete" who always seems to be in the middle of some mechanical or organisational or personal disaster. It's a special kind of skill.
18/07/2024 07:40:47 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Can't think why I would. I mean it's breakfast.
I might delay it as long as it would take to ride to the nearest breakfast establishment but I thought us English loved our breakfasts. Obviously your continentals are a different breed, grabbing a croissant and a cafe au lait to go. No I'm sorry he's crossed the mark. Inexcusable behaviour.
But yes, we all know a Pete.
Upt.
18/07/2024 08:29:44 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Brings back memories... On my first long distance bike trip to Greece I was disappointed not to conquer L'Iseran but it was still blocked with snow in April. I did manage it a few years later and it's a great climb - probably easier on the Commando than your Cub although more to pick up if it all went wrong. The trouble with the hairpins is that the slope in the inside can be approaching 50%.....
Even on the Commando I was once passed going downhill (in the Pyrenees) by a cyclist. They're brave chaps. It always amuses me that some motorcyclists insist on togging up with full leather to go 10 miles to a cafe, while these heroes make do with a thin layer of Lycra. As theyre doing around 60mph downhill on occasion their crashes can be as serious as most on motorbikes.
As for breakfast - I'm afraid it's a bit uncivilised in my view to set off without partaking. And look how tired you got. On my French trips I was sometimes seduced by the menu du jours at lunchtime for a handful of Euros. The trouble was that I never felt like getting back on the bike afterwards.
But great stories and I look forward to the continuation.
18/07/2024 10:18:14 UTC
Bogger said :-
Just back from the latest 10 day European trip with the usual reprobates. Plenty of breakfasts on this trip. Watch this space as they say.
Bogger
21/07/2024 23:25:50 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Glad you've seen the light Bogger.
And nothing foreign!
21/07/2024 23:57:01 UTC
nab301 said :-
looking forward to it already ... hold on a minute, last years trip hasn't finished yet , I guess it'll be something to look forward to this winter when we're snowed or rained indoors!
Nigel
22/07/2024 11:54:30 UTC
Bogger said :-
This years trip will be along, in hopefully, the not too distant future. I left last years too long before the write up.
Bogger
22/07/2024 12:15:19 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
You're making us all look bad Boggit, not that that's too hard.
I still haven't written up Spain and Portugal from 2022.
Upt and procrastinating.
22/07/2024 12:42:07 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Stop procrastinating Upt'! And Bogger's got no excuse as he's retired too now. Pffffft.
23/07/2024 08:17:56 UTC
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