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CBF 125 Cold Tickover SOLVED
By Ren Withnell
The Problem
CBF 125 starts perfectly on a cold or warm morning, or after being stood for an hour. After 30 to 60 seconds unless the throttle is "blipped" and the revs kept up the motor dies. It will not tickover. As soon as the motor is fully warmed the bike works perfectly and ticks over fine.
The Solution
Check and adjust the tappets, in particular the exhaust tappet.
The Story
My CBF 125 is the first fuel injected and hence the first fully electronically control motorcycle I've owned. Everything else may have had electronic ignition but the fuelling was by carburettor. This both excited me and scared me. It's something new but it's also far more complex and far less "fixable" than the old carb bikes. Anyhow, upon purchase it ran perfectly, starting in both cold and warm weather. On the harshest, dampest, frostiest and wettest mornings of the winter just a prod and "dum dum dum" the motor started and ticked over perfectly.
After a particularly hard winter it started no longer ticking over while I was shutting the gate and putting on my gloves. I had no problem restarting the motor but had to continually blip the engine to keep it from stalling. It was one of those "irritating" problems that was never enough to stop the bike from getting my to where I needed to be so I never really looked into it fully.
It might be the Lambda sensor not giving the right feedback. The air temperature sensor, the oil temperature sensor, the air idle control valve, blocked jet...and so on and so on. One of those problems that can only be fixed by replacing things. That said, HOPEFULLY, but not necessarily the computer should light up the engine management light to indicate an issue and the Haynes manual has basic methods for working out what the computer is trying to tell you. But there was no engine management light coming on, save for the 5 seconds when the ignition is started and that is exactly what is supposed to happen.
Over the last month it's been getting worse. It's never let me down but keeping the motor going has been hard work and if it has died it's been a real battle to get it going again. It would die a mile or two into the trip if I stopped at lights, the motor had to be fully and completely warmed up. Time to look online. There's very little about this issue online, most "stalling" searches cover the well documented "kangaroo" problem relating to the dodgy fuel pump on 2012 models. But one sole voice mentioned my issue then later reported "Tappets"
I change my oil really regular. I used to do tappets on my early bikes all the time but after years and years of riding countless miles I pretty much always found them to be near enough right. Fazer 600, 25,000 miles, spot on. NTV 600 Revere, 55,000 miles, fine. CLR 125, 25,000 miles, in tolerance. All motors have their rattles and clacks, as does the CBF 125, so I assumed the tappets would be just fine at 14,500 miles. The service interval is 2,500 miles, I don't want to be doing them THAT often!
But...but I've serviced the bike recently with oil, new air filter, cleaned the "inside the engine" oil filter and changed the plug. Fine, but the problem remained. When this guy mentioned "tappets" a light went on. If the tappet is out of kilter, particularly too tight, when the motor is cold the air won't be flowing through as it should and the motor will be hard to keep going. When the motor warms there's enough gap to sustain tickover. Aha!
I've just checked the tappets and the exhaust was WELL tight. I Adjusted (fiddly but not hard at all) and I started the motor (after remembering to replace the plug cap DOH!) and left it. After tidying up and without even touching the throttle it was still running like a brand new bike. Knowing me I doubt I'll check the tappets every 2,500 miles but I'll TRY to do it every 5,000 miles. If I get any more tickover issues that will be the FIRST thing I check.
Remember folks, a TIGHT tappet will end up burnt out. If there's any doubt check yours too. A slack tappet is a happy tappet.
Addendum
The bike is just a whole lot better! It starts fine...runs fine...seems to use less fuel. How could I overlook something so simple and yet so important?
Reader's Comments
Matthew Reeves said :-
You a star. My bike is having the same problem.
I will check the clearances and adjust them.
Thank you for putting this in the web
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Hey Matthew. It sure as hell will not do any harm to check them. Plenty of resources online to help you through too. Please report back what happens be it good news or bad.
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
Scotty lester said :-
My CBF 125 62 plate has head lights clocks an bak lights dim bye 50 percent when I Rev a ride the bike I've had a new alternator a new rectifier batterie new head light bulbs any people no the problem please Contackt me 07913774190
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Hi Scotty. It sounds like you've done all the things I'd expect to do. Most times it'll either be the regulator rectifier or the alternator. It is possible but very unlikely that one of those that you replaced was also bad.
Before you spend a small fortune replacing everything again I'd take some time to check all the wires around the bike. I found a couple of wires rubbing against parts of the bike and were almost worn through. Check and clean all the connectors too. It's a pain to do but at least it's not expensive.
If that doesn't help I think you might have to get some expert help for a proper diagnosis. A brand new stator (the coils in the alternator) costs about £120 and a regulator rectifier is about £60.
www.bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=730...
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
Lee said :-
Hi i kinda have the same problem although poor acceleration and very unresponsive so un safe to ride with it gaining and lossing power i have replaced lambada sensor had new spark plug ht cap new fuel air filter still the same
if i restrict air filter partly with my hand it revs perfect any idears what this could be thanks in advance. Lee
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Hi Lee. It's hard to diagnose from afar but still... If you partially block the incoming air and it improves that implies its running lean. Partially blocked injector?
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
Lee said :-
What should i do take jet off and clean it? Thankyou for ur reply
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
There's no jet, just the injector. This is a delicate precision part and can't be cleaned like a nut or bolt. You need to be careful as you could make things worse.
I suggest you either seek professional help or spend quite some time learning about fuel injection systems.
I bought the entire throttle body off ebay for £15, that's a good place to start :)
See link...
www.bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=750...
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
Russell said :-
Hi guys i have a honda cbf 125 2012 , im trying to find a fault which is becoming increasingly frustrating . The bike will not start and just clicks over when pressing the start button any ideas what this could be ? To save me time
20/07/2016 22:38:28 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
The obvious place to start is the battery Russell. It sounds like it's flat. Will the bike bump-start?
21/07/2016 11:47:29 UTC
MALC davies said :-
Had the no idle till warm problem. Rest the tappets .all good .thanks for the info .
17/12/2017 18:58:08 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Glad it's been helpful Malc Davies. I still can't believe I didn't think of this sooner. My CBF125 now has 69,800 miles on the clock and is still running fine, although it is rather rattly these days at startup. I check the tappets every 10,000 miles now everything has settled in, it will be due another look over the Christmas break.
18/12/2017 09:22:33 UTC
Jim said :-
Bikes and Travels saves the day again. I've been having bother with the bike stalling when cold for a couple of days. Googled the hell out of it, and where do I find the answer - right here! When I opened her up this morning the exhaust valve had almost no gap at all - once I'd set it right, I checked the inlet, which was OK, using the BAT guide, and it's running sweet as a nut again. Result, thanks to Bikes and Travels!
16/02/2019 20:21:07 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Cor!! With another 10,000 handy helpful tips I could save the motorcycling world! Glad to have been of service and I glad your velocipede is working as it should. Be sure to check the tappets once in a while in the future eh.
17/02/2019 19:53:11 UTC
Jason said :-
Mine does this as well it donest start up if the engine isn't hot and when you let the revs off it just does dies out . Best way to start it is bump start it and it work straight away. Bike smells of petrol. What could this be. Petrol pump. body throttle?
12/07/2019 13:33:14 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Jason - check the tappets! If there's a strong fuel smell I'd be looking around for leaks - under the tank - fuel pump and throttle body.
12/07/2019 13:49:29 UTC
Jason said :-
When you say leaks you mean a cracked manifold or fuel pipe. I have done 60k milage and it does have a tapping sound. I was thinking it could be fuel pump or throttle body. I changed the c02 air sensor done nothing. My air filter was abit dirty i gave it a good clean but done noting.
12/07/2019 16:25:01 UTC
Jason said :-
Oh i forgot to say it does have a fat of after market exhaust thats could ve the petrol smell lol
12/07/2019 16:25:55 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
If you're smelling fuel I'd check the low pressure fuel pipe from the tank to the fuel pump first. Then I'd inspect the fuel pump itself. Then the high pressure pipe from the pump to the throttle body. There could be leakage at the throttle body itself though that would be the least likely.
The tapping sound could be the tappets... GET THEM CHECKED! It could also be the cam chain tensioner or the cam chain itself.
My CBF125 now has 82,800 miles. It is a little rattly now but I don't think it's terminal. Yet.
13/07/2019 07:01:09 UTC
Bob said :-
There is another danger of tight tappets - insufficient oil clearance between follower and cam. I think Ren's bike has roller tappets which is unusual and makes it very tolerant of insufficient tappet gap, but if you have the more usual flat followers you can easily burn the camshaft and follower faces.
Of course, too wide and you can damage the cam and followers again, this time as a result of having them smashing each other to bits.
The trick is - get the clearance right....
13/07/2019 15:33:45 UTC
Jason said :-
Cheers ren got a pump and body on the way to me il update when i install it thank you
13/07/2019 21:41:56 UTC
Jason said :-
Nope changed body and pump didnt do nothing.
17/07/2019 16:59:04 UTC
Jason said :-
I checked all pipes. Still can only bump start it as when i electric start it dont statt just turns over. As soon as i bump start it it starts. But then i have to have it to 3k revs or it cuts out
17/07/2019 17:02:44 UTC
Jason said :-
Only thing left is valve clearance but i dont think its that whats doing it
17/07/2019 17:16:44 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
If you can bump start it but not start it on the battery... hmmmmm....
If you bump start it do the lights come on? If you get it bump started check the charging voltage at the battery. If it's not over about 13 volts could be a charging/electrical issue. Still... check the GODDAM tappets! It will not do any harm and it will help eliminate one potential issue.
17/07/2019 17:21:47 UTC
Jason said :-
Does look like battery acid is leaking a tiny bit and my battery gets a little hot. Once by bike is nice and hot the electic start works fine. Tappets will be next thank you
17/07/2019 17:33:41 UTC
Upt'North said :-
Don't mess with a leaking battery, just don't.
Upt'North.
18/07/2019 09:11:05 UTC
Jason said :-
I changed my battery still same issue. There was a wire disconnected from alternator casing to my wire rubber housing i connect it back in still no luck.
19/07/2019 18:27:36 UTC
Jason said :-
Sorry for the headack just really bugging me iv had bikes for 10 years just cant find no issue what it could be. And i dont want to spend hundreds at the garage. How much roughly would it be dor a diagnostic test to find out the problem .
19/07/2019 18:46:42 UTC
Upt'North said :-
Jason,
I know it's a long shot but if you let us know the region you're from then maybe someone can suggest a good man to help......when I say a man I obviously mean any gender and anyone who identifies as any gender or indeed no gender at all. Phew, think I covered it.
Upt'North.
20/07/2019 01:02:45 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Phew! Back pedalling from the brink of a terrible political correctness faux pas there Upt'. I think you may have saved that one. I suggest "person" for now until that becomes offensive too.
A diagnostic test Jason? Do not ever believe there is some god-like uber expert who will plug in his/her/its computer, tickle a few buttons and calmly inform you that you need to replace parts X and Y. Even the very best of mechanics will have several ideas what a problem could be and work through each possibility. They also accept they do not know everything and are willing to accept a) they could have been wrong and b) they do not know everything.
There is, according to Haynes, a plug at the front of the bike. Apparently we can short this out and any error codes in the computer will be flashed as short and long flashes via the Engine Management Light. I'll go and see if I can get mine to work...
Erm... have you checked your tappets???
20/07/2019 07:23:09 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Right - checking to see if there are any error codes...
https://bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=7235...
20/07/2019 09:06:11 UTC
Jason said :-
Nope iv not done the tappets yet just waiting for a feel gauge to be delivered. And yh to many gender liquiq out there what ever that means lol. When i was a kid i would be playing with toy soldiers nowa days there in tutus and wanting sex changes at the age of 15 lol. Rip world
20/07/2019 11:35:23 UTC
Jason said :-
Adjusted tapets bike started straight away no problem but now i have a loud knocking sound.fix one problem gain at another
25/07/2019 01:44:19 UTC
Jason said :-
Knocking happened after i done tappets. My tappet arms move side to side abit not sure if thats normal. Cant see it being the rods as it never had the loud knocking befor i done vavle clearance
25/07/2019 01:46:19 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Recheck the tappets, sounds like one is too slack now. What did you set them too?
25/07/2019 03:02:38 UTC
Jason said :-
Iv tryed a few sizes first try i did 0.12 exhaust and 0.08 intake. But this was my first time doing mabe i got it wrong. I called garage up they said it sounds like vavle bearings. But this sound where there befor i messed around with the tappets gap size
25/07/2019 14:15:53 UTC
Jason said :-
Im geting the dead center line an TDC (T) mark with electric start as i dont have a big alan key. Should this be a problem, it was lined yh with a line on the left side of the (T) mark
25/07/2019 14:18:25 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I have a guide - I'll add a link. Absolutely totally make sure the camshaft lobes are at the bottom, they ought to be at half 4 and half 7 on the clock. Put the motor in 5th gear and use the rear wheel to nudge the motor - ALWAYS in the forward direction only, don't try to reverse.
I can't recommend enough getting the assistance of someone who's done this before - even if it is on old cars.
https://bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=711...
25/07/2019 16:15:11 UTC
Jason said :-
Its to complicated so i had to buy a engine of ebay as i use it for work
25/07/2019 22:54:25 UTC
Jason said :-
I didnt see no clock or half 4 or 7 there was just the F and T mark in my inspection hole
26/07/2019 01:35:10 UTC
Jason said :-
26/07/2019 01:39:06 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
From the images you do have the engine at TOP DEAD CENTRE correctly. However it is possible you have it at TDC between the exhaust and induction strokes rather than betwenn the compression and power strokes. Now... if none of that makes sense you have a lot to learn about how a 4 stroke engine works before you can go about correctly setting the tappets.
Your replacement engine may need the tappets setting, if not then it surely will do at some point in the future. You have 2 options.
1. Do your own maintenance. If you wish to do this then you need to learn about how an engine works. At first it is terifyingly complicated. As a young man it took me several years to get the basics and even after 30 years of tinkering I still learn new things all the time. The old timers on here will think it is quite simple but that is because we have been doing this for a long time.
2. Find a trusted mechanic. Not everyone is interested in engines, not everyone is blessed with skills either. In which case you need to find someone who is, be it a friend or a professional mechanic.
26/07/2019 07:05:36 UTC
Upt'North said :-
I think you did what Ren describes and set the tappets on the wrong stroke cycle. Easy done. Ren is also right that you can't become a mechanic from reading threads on Web sites, even as good as this one. You owe me for that Ed. I think you just found out that sometimes a little help is cheaper than the opposite. You're not the first and you won't be the last. If you wish to post your location then someone may be able to lead you to a good chap or someone on here may be able to help.
We should all know our limitations, to seek trusted advice is a strength not a weakness.
I personally studied for 4 years to reach a level of competence with motor vehicles but when I purchased my ST (the BeaST) the first thing I did due to relocation was track down a good man. They're worth there weight in gold, well mine is because he's as far through as a whippet and 4'11".
Good luck with the new engine but the old one might just require the tappets setting, or maybe not.
Upt'North.
26/07/2019 10:00:41 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Sheeez did I ever mess up when I was younger. I done broke some things, sometimes made things worse and probably scrapped my first bike because I now suspect I didn't know how to check for a spark. What a bleeding muppet! Don't get me wrong, I still screw up today but a little less often. This week I cut a wire in the car. The wrong wire. Easy fix but it reminds me that I'm not half as smart as I'd like to think I am.
I also have to note that not everyone is cut out for spannering and not everyone WANTS to either. I mostly enjoy it but there are times when I get cross and frustrated - why won't you just blooming well WORK!! I daresay patience is the one thing I have learned that has made the most difference.
Do you not do all your own spannering on the BeaST Upt'?
26/07/2019 10:58:58 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Sheeez did I ever mess up when I was younger. I done broke some things, sometimes made things worse and probably scrapped my first bike because I now suspect I didn't know how to check for a spark. What a bleeding muppet! Don't get me wrong, I still screw up today but a little less often. This week I cut a wire in the car. The wrong wire. Easy fix but it reminds me that I'm not half as smart as I'd like to think I am.
I also have to note that not everyone is cut out for spannering and not everyone WANTS to either. I mostly enjoy it but there are times when I get cross and frustrated - why won't you just blooming well WORK!! I daresay patience is the one thing I have learned that has made the most difference.
Do you not do all your own spannering on the BeaST Upt'?
26/07/2019 10:58:59 UTC
Ian Soady said :-
You're right not everyone's cut out for it. But I never knew anyone who could afford to pay someone else to work on their bikes (except things like reboring etc) - certainly not regular servicing. The same applied to cars: if you couldn't fix it yourself with bits from the local scrapyard then the bike / car waited till you'd saved up. That's why a lot of people had bikes: they were cheaper to repair than cars and didn't rot away under you.
My dad was a terrible mechanic but just got on with it. He once replaced the rotten rear chassis in an Austin van with fence posts......
My few experiences with "professional" motorcycle mechanics have taught me that I'm far better doing it myself - not to mention the satisfaction of doing a job right.
26/07/2019 12:24:07 UTC
Jason said :-
Yh im never touching engines agaun .Thanks alot for the advice really helped
26/07/2019 13:05:01 UTC
Upt'North said :-
I do most Ed, especially those jobs that would be labour rich, but my little man in Hartlepool is a real diamond and a good man to have on board as and when the need arises. He puts my tyres on and I let him change the oil too, the price he charges means it's just as cheap has buying the oil and filter myself. I know that's hard to believe but it is true. He's also Honda trained at the time the BeaST was new so to say he knows his way around it is an understatement. He diagnosed the swingarm fault earlier this year without looking at it and was spot on. I did the work and he provided the brains. Nil cost.
Upt'North.
26/07/2019 13:25:06 UTC
Jason said :-
Your right my lobes was not at the bottom there at pretty much on the bearings what the measurment ment to be on this stroke then with the little (o) on top left if you know mate. Guess the (o) is ment to be on bottom right as the lobes would be pointing downwards that way. If i can fix it i owe you a pint lol
26/07/2019 17:57:46 UTC
Jason said :-
I owe you a beer its f#####g working!!!!!
26/07/2019 18:22:39 UTC
Jason said :-
U r a legend! You have no idea how happy i am now lol
26/07/2019 18:31:35 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I'm glad to hear it Jason. I'd recommend rechecking them again in a few days as things will have settled. Officially they are supposed to be checked and set every 2,500 miles. If your bike is over 20,000 miles I'd stretch that to 5.000 miles.
But DO NOT ignore the oil changes! This needs to be done every 2,500 miles without fail.
27/07/2019 09:06:13 UTC
Jason said :-
Got down the a13 to go work and when i get to 6-7k revs the bike boggs out and cuts out bike bike runs fine untill i get to 6-7 revs
27/07/2019 16:49:33 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Was the bike working OK above 6-7k revs beforehand? If so I'd look at all the things you've changed.
Fuel pump - it might supply fuel but not enough for high speed running.
Throttle body - blockage restricting fuel flow, sensors not sending correct data.
29/07/2019 08:29:34 UTC
Jason said :-
Yh it was working befor all i touched was the tappets very strange
29/07/2019 11:41:39 UTC
Jason said :-
Oh yh i forgot i changed the pump and throttle body for a second hand one on ebay because i thoight my bike wasnt running proply because of the pump. When i get my second hand engine today il put my old pump and throttle back on see what happens. Not been work for a week now. My pocket really hurts
29/07/2019 12:36:50 UTC
jeff said :-
my cbf 125 over revs in 1st gear clutch in knock in to nutral revs normal any ideas please
24/10/2020 16:11:27 UTC
Upt'North said :-
Jeff....
Clutch slip?
No teeth left on first gear?
Back wheel spinning with excessive power?
Upt'North.
24/10/2020 16:28:53 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Jeff, I think we'd need a better description of your issue before we can offer suggestions.
25/10/2020 16:45:55 UTC
said :-
Thanx Ed ok i put bike in 1st gear while the clutch is pulled in, it starts to rev more than the tick over. I slip in to nutral the revs go back to normal tick over,i have adjusted the clutch all fine the bike only does this in 1st gear. someone says its the oil sencor when riding through gears all is good pull up at lights junctions hold clutch in starts to rev on its own hope this is a better explanation
26/10/2020 11:15:33 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Much better explanation Jeff, thanks.
Quick question. Does the same thing happen if you put the bike into second gear?
Here is my thinking. If it were the clutch dragging then the revs would be high in neutral and drop when in 1st (or 2nd etc). But you're problem seems to be quite the reverse!
Something is dragging in the NEUTRAL position. When in neutral this drags the revs down to what you call "normal" and when you pull in the clutch and go into 1st this bypasses the neutral problem and the revs rise. Tell me, if in neutral and you pull in the clutch, do the revs rise?
Oh, what do you consider "normal" tickover and "high" tickover? Typically I'd expect around 1300 to 1600 rpm for a normal tickover. If you have an early model you might not have a rev counter.
The only electrical way the motorcycle's computer (and therefore tickover can be altered) can "sense" the bike is in neutral is from the neutral light. It is possible you have an electrical problem where a short between the neutral light and any one of the sensors is confusing the computer. As soon as you go into gear the neutral light goes out and also the short is bypassed and the computer gets the right information to run the motor.
First off tell me if the tickover changes in neutral if the clutch is in and how high the "high" revs are.
26/10/2020 12:21:29 UTC
jeff said :-
thanks again Ed in nutral with clutch in tickover is ok. I don't have a counter mine is a 2009 but i would say round the 1300 when in 1st gear clutch in it rises to prob 1800 or more. No foult codes are stored engine light comes on for few seconds goes off
26/10/2020 19:59:49 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
So to clarify - you start the bike in neutral, revs are normal. You pull in the clutch in neutral, revs are normal. As soon as you select 1st gear with the clutch still in, still pulling the clutch lever to the bars, the revs rise up.
If you were to be in second gear, stationary with the clutch pulled in, are the revs high then too? I mean, does this ONLY happen in 1st gear or is it the same for 2nd (and 3rd etc)?
I've got my glasses and I've got the wiring diagram. I'll have a think.
27/10/2020 07:49:38 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
SUSSED! GIve me a while I'll do a video.
27/10/2020 08:26:11 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
No I won't... the bike is camera shy.
I disconnected the clutch switch on my bike. In neutral it ticks over as expected. When I go into gear *SOMETIMES* the revs rise to "high". It's not revving it's nuts off and screaming but as you say Jeff I think 1800rpm is a good guess.
I wonder if there is a basic "anti stall" inside the computer? If the computer can see the bike is in gear (neutral light is out) AND it thinks the clutch is out too (clutch circuit is open) then it ups the revs. It could be anti stall or it could be "drive mode". What will be happening is the computer is opening the idle air control valve.
So check your clutch switch. Disconnect the wires from the clutch lever and short them. You may find you fix the tickover but DO NOT DO NOT leave the clutch switch disconnected. The clutch switch is a safety mechanism and I suspect if the clutch is shorted out permanently the bike won't run well as the computer will be using the wrong settings.
27/10/2020 08:42:32 UTC
jeff said :-
thanks Ed yes only in 1st gear and what do you mean short them i don't understand that bit many thanks
27/10/2020 19:19:06 UTC
Upt'North said :-
Jeff,
I think Ed is suggesting you put a jumper wire into the two Lucas connectors. I presume this will tell the bikes brain the clutch is out when it is actually in. I think.
I'm sure Ed will chirp in soon. I'd wait for him to confirm, brains ain't cheap.
Upt'North.
28/10/2020 00:31:21 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Quite so Upt. I'll add an image to help clear things up Jeff. Please remember this is for testing only. If this solves the problem you (or a mechanic) will need to get and fit a new clutch switch.
28/10/2020 08:46:52 UTC
jeff said :-
thanks guys let me get this clear i try like above in photo then put the switch back to gether dont leave with the wire there if it solves it new switch fck am being retarded this month
28/10/2020 14:09:43 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
That's about right Jeff. If "shorting" or electrically connecting the 2 wires on the clutch switch solves the problem then you get a new switch. I've never actually fitted one myself so I don't know how difficult it is but I can see them for sale on Ebay for about £7.
28/10/2020 14:22:47 UTC
jeff said :-
hey guys put new fuel pump on as kept cutting out start give revs cut out, so new pump on went 1/4 of a mile cut out not started again so i need to take throttle body off can i do this and leave the tank on ? many thanks
14/07/2021 09:10:43 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I've never done it myself but I reckon you could get the throttle body out without removing the tank. However while it's a bit of a faff I would recommend removing the tank as access will be a lot easier.
14/07/2021 18:21:09 UTC
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