Fazer 600 Oil and Filter Change - Problem - By Ren Withnell
Changing the oil and filter on a Yamaha Fazer FZS 600 should be the the easiest thing to do. And for the most part it's as difficult or as easy as any other bike. Drain the oil, remove the filter, replace the drain plug and fit a new filter, then fill with oil. Hmmmmmm
This has happened twice. I fill the bike with oilt until it's about half way up the sight glass. I run the engine for 4 or 5 minutes to make sure the oil's filled the filter and got around the engine. I then leave the bike to stand for 10 minutes while I clear up and put the old oil into an old container. Then I recheck the oil and top up until the level's a few millimetres below the top of the sight glass.
No problem. Then I ride the bike. This time round I took the bike for a 30 mile round trip. I park the bike up and let it settle whilst I take off my bike gear and roll a smoke. I recheck the oil...to find it's up above the sight glass. I let it settle for another 10 minutes but sure enough it's still overfull.
I've done this before. I have a large syringe and a piece of tube I use to drain off the excess. This time round I've removed quarter of a litre! Where the hell is it coming from? Surely if nothing else it should drop slightly as any empty crevaces are filled. I have considered expension, the oil may be more voluminous when it's hot, but this surely cannot amke for much difference at all. I honestly cannot work out what is happening.
I'm more than open to suggestions. Please post any ideas below.
There is one other problem. This time round the filter's been on for about a year. I tend to change it every other oil change, that's oil every 3,000 and filter every 6,000 miles. I always expect the filter to be dirty and caked in road tar and muck, but this filter this time was rusty. Not a tad of rust, I mean rusty to the point of potential failure. I reckon another few months of hard rain and it would have started to leak, with potentially disasterous results.
Unfortunately I can't recall what make the filter is, and any markings have long since been blasted off with road spray. I bought a genuine Yamaha one this time round and I hope that proves much more robust. That said, it cost £14, that's twice what you'd pay for a pattern item. It was never a problem on the NTV, the filter's hidden round the back of the engine and out of the worst of the weather, the Fazer's filter is up front between the exhaust pipes and catches every piece of rain, road tar, dirt and stone that flies up off the front wheel. It could do with some protection, we'll see how robust the Yamaha one is first.
It's not the best image, but you can see the rust forming.
neil p said :-
I wouldn't rely on the sight glass level method
the haynes manual and the fzs600 owners manual both recommend the engine to be filled with 2.7litres (oil and filter change)or 2.5 litres if only changing the oil, measure this out and pour in slowly this should ensure that the correct amount of oil is put into the engine. providing sufficient time is allowed to drain the old oil out of a hot engine.
cheers neil p
seba said :-
hy what oil do you use? in w please:)
Ren - The Ed said :-
Seba - According to the Haynes manual I use a 10W-40 weight oil.
If you're curious about quality, that's up to you. I personally choose a mid price car oil and make sure to change it often. Others may choose a high quality fully synthetic oil specifically for motorcycles.
Oil choice is a massive subject! There's plenty of information and lots and lots of opinions.
Neelesh shetty said :-
wtz d grade of used in fzs nd wtz d capacity of oil wid filter replacement
Wtz d use f synthetic oil 4 it
Bob said :-
You're overfilling in the first instance. Once the old oil is out and the filter and sump are buttoned back up, pour in fresh oil and let it settle. Fill to the BOTTOM of the sight glass.
Run it up and let it get warm, rev it a bit. Shut off leave 1 minute then top up to the line.
Mark said :-
I've had a FZS600 for 14 years and this is a common problem. Residual oil hides in many places. After taking out the sump plug and filter , leave to drain for 30 minutes or so on the side stand before replacing and refilling.
Good idea, as said, to first fill to the bottom of the sight glass, and top up after a decent ride.
16/11/2017 10:22:34 PM UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
I'm glad it wasn't just me! I was beginning to think I was just useless. Cheers Mark.
17/11/2017 6:53:41 AM UTC
Kev said :-
Best not use car oil as it's not suitable for 'wet' clutches fitted to 99.99% of bikes.
16/12/2018 8:38:09 AM UTC
Ian Soady said :-
Only if it has friction modifiers. If it has it will have a symbol like this:
16/12/2018 10:09:54 AM UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
As stated previously there is a massive huge ongoing debate about whether or not car oils should be used in motorcycles. It is a subject far more complex and with far more science and opinions than we could cover here.
As Ian points out the primary concern is that some super extra slippery additives can cause wet clutches to slip. Secondly to this is most motorcycles also use the same oil in the gearbox as in the engine which can shear oils not designed to be in gearboxes.
My opinion - and it is purely an opinion not a fact - is that for older and/or less-stressed engines car oils are OK but may require changing a little more often. Avoid the energy conserving oils as Ian pointed out.
17/12/2018 10:41:51 AM UTC
Add a RELEVANT link
Upload an image