Repair And Restoration
CB500X Rear Wheel Removal
Job Date - 16 May 2017
By Ren Withnell
Sharon and I will be riding "The North Coast 500 (NC500)" soon. I'm estimating a total journey of 1200 miles. Of course my rear tyre is not quite worn out...but worn out enough to know I'll worry all the way there, around and back. As such I've fitted a new tyre. As such the rear wheel had to come off.
Remove the rear brake calliper.
You don't actually have to do this BUT in my experience when putting the rear wheel back into the motorcycle it makes fitting the brake hanger a lot lot LOT easier.
Remove these 2 bolts to pull the calliper off the brake hanger.
Once these 2 bolts are removed the brake calliper can be lifted off the brake hanger. Be careful and don't pull hard as if you have ABS the sensor and sensor wire are still attached to the brake hanger. There's two small bolts holding this in place too.
Remove these 2 bolts to release the ABS sensor.
Both the ABS sensor, wire, calliper and pipe are attached to the swingarm to keep them secure. To allow the calliper and sensor to be moved clearly away undo one of the retainers.
By undoing this retainer on the swingarm...
...the brake calliper can be moved completely out of the way...
...and the hanger is free from interference.
Loosen and support.
Undo the chain tensioners on both sides.
After loosening the chain tensioners/adjusters I find it helps greatly to put some wood under the tyre. The idea is not to lift the tyre but for the tyre to rest gently on the wood. This means when the spindle is pulled out of the singarm and wheel the wheel barely drops. The same pieces of wood are used when putting the wheel back in to help align all the components.
Finding the right pieces of wood can be tricky. This stops the wheel from dropping too much.
With the wheel supported and the chain tensioners/adjusters loose we can undo the BIG NUT, the wheel spindle.
Once the spindle is loosened the rear wheel can be pushed in towards the front of the bike. If the tensioners/adjusters are loose this will move forward a centimetre or two and leave the chain very loose. I find it easier to remove one of the chain guard bolts which allows the chain guard to be tilted up and out of the way so the chain can be pulled aside.
With the chain guard out of the way the loose chain can be pulled off.
Now simply draw out the wheel spindle and remove the wheel.
The torque for the rear wheel spindle is 65 ft-lb
In case I forget...the black flared spacer goes in the chain side, the ordinary spacer is for the brake side.
So I don't get them muddled up.
When refitting the rear wheel I used this tip from Ian Soady. Rear Wheel Fitting Tip #2 as well as this one from myself, Tip For Replacing The Rear Wheel
While the brake calliper is off the bike now would be a great time to clean it. You don't need to undo the pipe and re-bleed the system just give everything a jolly good wash and inspection while it's hanging to the side of the bike.
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Ian Soady said :-
It's always a good idea to start the "big nut" with the wheel well supported so I would do that with the bike on the prop stand rather than centre stand - even more so if using a paddock stand. Just half a turn is enough - everything will stay together quite happily.
And I always think it's a good idea to clean around the area I'm going to work on before I start so I don't get muck in the bearings etc.
And what about my tip #99 - fitting the spindle from the right hand side so that it's even easier to get everything in line?
17/5/2017 9:38:36 AM UTC
Ian Soady said :-
ps the same when doing the final tightening - best if the bike is securely on the deck.
17/5/2017 12:38:52 PM UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
There are *possibly* one or two bikes out there where the rear wheel spindle is directional - ie it would only fit one way. Although my CB500X is fine there's quite a few bikes such that the exhaust would get in the way of fitting the spindle from the right too. Other than that I do see your point Ian.
17/5/2017 4:45:39 PM UTC
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