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Travel StoriesSkye AKA Bogger's Curse
Strong Wind And Rain, Beauty On The Main, Tent Strain, Sharon Insane
Ride Date - 6 Sep 2026
By Ren Withnell
Poop. It's raining. It's windy. I've just checked the website and the turntable ferry still is not running. Could this be an entirely ferry-less trip? It seems likely, that's sad. Sharon is even sadder, she hates rain and really hates wind. This is all Bogger's fault obviously.
Bogger!! A good start to the day.
Despite our collective misery we put on a brave face and our big people pants and lounge around grumpily. Actually that's not fair to ourselves. We get up, grab showers, do our ablutions, then congregate in the common room to charge things up, get out of the wind and rain, and drink tea, lots of tea. Sharon is remarkably perky given the conditions. I take a look at the maps and create another of my cunning and devious plans.
With a significant amount of single track and the godawful weather Sharon wisely chooses to ride pillion today. We collect the kit from the straining and flapping tent, I fear something may break, urgh god I hope not. I check the pegs and tighten a few guy lines.
The road to Elgol starts in Broadford just down the road from the campsite turning. It's 15 miles of single track through swamped flat areas of those spikey grasses and mean bushes. We can see hills and rocky outcrops, there maybe mountains but the cloud is so low we aren't going to see them. There's occasional houses and random signs of farming. There's a bay with small fishing boats pulling at their moorings. And rain being rammed into our visors, I'm glad I managed to fudge-fix my visor.
Ideal motorcycling conditions.
Beautiful in a wild way.
Uphill then down, around and over we go. A clump of trees, a lonesome bridge, oddly a mobile phone mast and power cables swinging around. It feels wild and remote, possibly even dangerous. I'm sure if we were here in sunshine and warm still air it'd still feel remote but perhaps not so wild. Save for a crusty blue van coming the other way we have the road to ourselves.
Elgol had appeared on one of those "Top 10 places to see on Skye" lists. Considering how many of the other "top 10" places have been filled with tourists I'm expecting Elgol to be small, but you know - at least to have some tourists milling around and to have a cafe or a shop, something, anything! Elgol appears below us as a harbour wall running into the sea and a few houses.
Looking down to Elgol Harbour.
It's a steep road down to the harbour that I need to negotiate carefully. There is no sign of life. People obviously do come here, there's a couple of vans, fishing accoutrements, a few houses, and buildings that advertise boat trips. People must come here for sure, but on this wet and windy Sunday afternoon in September there's not a soul here save for Sharon and I.
The Harbour is devoid of tourists save for Sharon and I.
Harbour wall - or a ramp?
After a few piccies I power the bike up the steep hill and spy a sign offering tea and cake and groceries! Aha, we are saved, tea may be forthcoming and all will be well. Hmmmm. Elgol village hall is firmly closed with the lights off, we are not saved and the blood levels in my teastream increase to unnerving levels.
Back along the wet and windy winding road we must go. It is beautiful, today the beauty is harsh and rugged. Soggy cows block our path momentarily. What could be a mountain begins to appear as the clouds move around. There's a marsh I hadn't seen on the way in too. The ruins of what was likely a small church. I may be clutching at straws but the weather seems to be "improving" such as it is. Oooh a pickup truck, steady on fella.
On our way back we can see a little more. Excuse me cooos.
Will we finally see the mountain tops?
Marsh? Not a common highland feature, perhaps it's flooding.
Seaweed of differing colours with vast vistas.
Broadford is a veritable town after those slow and empty 30 miles. We pass straight through and over The Skye Bridge into The Kyle Of Lochalsh. I park up in some random car park to stretch the legs and ponder the chance of a cafe. Sunday must still be a thing here, the one we can find is closed. Not to worry - I'll be fine (help me!).
The Skye Bridge, and no tea.
Plockton is another of those "must see" places. I'm realigning my expectations after Elgol so it comes as something of a surprise after 6 miles of single track to see a fair sized high school and train station just after the "Welcome To Plockton" sign. Then add a village complete with a pub or two, a cafe, a car park and a number of tourists. It is indeed pretty and pleasant, the weather continues to improve and Sharon is immediately besotted.
The views along the road to Plockton alone are worth the ride.
Plockton beside Loch Carron.
Why is Sharon besotted? You know she's got a thing for trees? Well seen from the shoreline Plockton is surrounded by trees. Across the errrr, natural harbour? Yes well across the water there's trees on the hillsides, inland there's trees on the hillsides, and a few within the village too. Add to this a rugged shoreline and a few cute white houses then some sailing boats in the bay, a craggy island, dramatic clouds, and jagged misty mountains. It's all too much for Her Ladyship - oh there's flowers in the gardens too. She's gonna POP with joy!
Trees! With excellent scenery.
Trees! With excellent scenery.
Trees! I think you'll be starting to understand Sharon's feelings by now.
Except she doesn't want to share. Too many tourists you see. That doesn't stop her from photographing everything from every angle. I'm pondering if I'm brave enough to go into this pub.
The pub is rammed, locals look exacerbated but resigned to the tourists, tourists look bewildered as do I. I'm about to give up when Sharon grabs a table so I order a tea for me and a latte for Sharon. "And what will you be eating?" It's clear they wish to be serving food so I peruse the menu. Ouch! No, no be fair Ren, it's only a tad more than I'd expect to see in a good quality pub back home. I suppose I'm the problem because I think a burger and chips should be a fiver. "No, we're not eating, thanks."
The ride back to the campsite is only half an hour. The wind is still firm but the rain is only occasional. A brief stop at the Co-op for supplies and back to the site.
Oh!! Beside our tent was a large tent that is now completely flattened. Holy cow that's bad... no wait something is wrong. Not flattened with lumps of stuff inside the tent, it has been laid flat. The mystery is quickly solved when the couple who's tent it is come up to Sharon and I. With the strong winds they've emptied their tent into the car and lain it down to protect it, the wind should ease later at which point they'll restore the tent. Sensible, very sensible.
They also report our tent has lost a peg, they looked for it but couldn't find it. Yikes - I grab another from the bag and replace it. Yes indeed our tent is flapping and shaking and straining and twisting. I don't like it, I don't like it at all. I've broken so many poles over the years, I don't fancy breaking another here leaving us with a half collapsed tent. God I wish we were in the teepee right now.
How about - right - we follow our neighbour's lead and collapse our tent? But we don't have a car to stick all our kit in. Nah, leave it in the tent, the weight will also help keep it in place, just grab what ya need sweetie. Now cut to a montage of Sharon and I, still in bike gear, fighting with a tent. Ren mistakenly thinks he can leave the poles in situ but he can't. Sharon has an air of despondency because she's realising (again) her boyfriend is an idiot. Ren realises he is indeed an idiot, gives up and puts the tent pegs back in.
We retreat to the common room where I look through the window, expecting to see my tent self-flatten in the seemingly ever strengthening wind. We return to the tent and sit inside, bracing the poles with each gust. "We can't do this all night Sharon." No we can't but we do keep at it for the best part of an hour, then the wind drops ever so slightly. Wind is cruel though, as we start to relax one huge gust pushes the front pole into a twist and fold. No snap, the pole springs back.
It's going dark as the wind drops enough for our neighbours to re-erect their tent. I offer to help but they assure me they're fine. The gusts are still heavy enough for me to wince as their much larger tent heaves at the pegs.
As we start to get ready for bed Sharon reiterates a valid point. Today's ride to Elgol in the inclement conditions has still been the most beautiful and impressive part of Skye we've seen. Yes yes yes Skye is indeed a beautiful island covered in jagged mountains and hardy moors. Yes the road to Elgol did not necessarily show us the biggest, bestest, most photogenic, utterly impressive bits.
And yet it was beautiful. Wild, interesting, remote, challenging, and beautiful.
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Prologue - Skye AKA Bogger's Curse
Excuses and complaining... that is all Ren has to offer. A truncated trip, the risk of bad weather, and bad timing. Awww poor poor Ren.
No Rain, Hip Pain, A Train, Rice Grain, Heavy Rain
The Batties are off to Skye! Today though they barely make it to Scotland. Ren expands his culinary expertise, forgets something, and looks happy as always.
Blood And Rain, Finger Pain, Improving Terrain
A short and simple if a little wet ride up to Callander is followed by a (not very) long and tiresome walk into Callander. No pain no gain Ren! There's new friends too.
More Rain, No Butane, Close To Insane
Hey guess what? Ren is having a bad day, alas it's not as bad as most readers will hope. Most of his issues are entirely self inflicted but that won't stop him from blaming Bogger. Don't worry he'll be fine, Sharon is hiding the utensils.
More Rain, Can Remain, Narrow Lane, Pasta Strain
The Batties are staying put in Skye thankfully. It's now time to start exploring the island so it must be time to ride. The weather is mixed, the scenery is good, and it's pasta for tea.
Little Rain, Dodging Drains, Visor Restrain
The weather is mostly good and the scenery is something to be admired. The day is not without it's mishaps though, all brought on by Bogger's curse. Obviously.
Strong Wind And Rain, Beauty On The Main, Tent Strain, Sharon Insane
The weather is against The Dynamic Muppets. This day seems to show the worst day can also be the best day which makes no sense at all. Will the tent survive the wind?
Reader's Comments
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Ah, Sundays and the wee (wee) Free....
Many years ago we (me, Electra and her mum) took a trip up the the West Coast and the Outer Hebrides (or Western Isles as it now seems to be known for some reason). We arrived in Stornoway on a Sunday afternoon. We hadn't booked any accommodation in advance - perhaps foolishly given Electra's mum's age. On disemmbarking from the ferry, it was noticeable how deserted the town was except for a raucous pub spilling its clientele out onto the quayside.
There were a couple of small hotels which were firmly closed. In desperation I found the local police station which had a bored looking constable behind the counter. When I told him my mission to secure accommodation he merely sucked his teeth and opined there was no chance on the Lord's day. Still, he agreed to phone round and eventually tracked down someone who would offer us beds for the night.
This was a very stern lady whose avarice obviously won the battle against her religious convictions. The accommodation was basic in the extreme with the only decoration being various framed Biblical tracts hanging on the walls. Still, it was better than spending the night in the car.
Electra's mum was fascinated that she could still read a book by natural light at 11pm. Something she's nver experienced in Greece. The simmer dim I think it's called.
13/11/2026 12:53:37 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Did a local say, "you should have come last week the weather was lovely". They lie!
Nice trees. But it's trees inn'it.
The conditions you describe sum up just about every trip we've ever experienced in wee bonny jockland with one or two memorable exceptions. I don't like rain, except when it's on me veggie patch.
Upt.
As an aside we were returning from Berwick-upon-the-Tweed in the 4 wheeled vehicular transport this morning and the trees were still resplendent at times, the larch in particular were golden and vivid and the fields were full of thousands of migratory geese.
13/11/2026 16:46:36 UTC
Bogger said :-
That looks proper grim. Excellent.
Bogger
13/11/2026 21:24:53 UTC
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