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Travel StoriesSkye AKA Bogger's Curse
More Rain, No Butane, Close To Insane
Ride Date - 3 Sep 2026
By Ren Withnell
The weatherfolk did suggest there was a chance it might be dry this morning. As I grunt into consciousness I am only hearing the gentle flap of tent material in a soft breeze, there may be hope. Sharon is well out of it, I've slept effectively which is most peculiar and most welcome.
Our old skool biker friends decamp swiftly with the competence that comes with practice. They're loaded and kitted up before we've barely got the sleep from our eyes. I ask them to give us their best roughty toughty bad-ass biker poses, they're happy to oblige, giggling between themselves and taking the mick. It's been fun to briefly drop into their adventure, we wish them well as they rumble off into the ether.
Best butch biker pose please! I think they might be teasing us.
The rain makes momentary appearances so the tent is moist rather than drenched as it's rolled up into the bag. We don our waterproofs as it seems unlikely we'll be blessed with dryness all day. We trundle out of the site onto a road is damp and the sun is reflecting off it.
165 miles today. I plan to stop at Tyndrum for petrol. I'm aware that the Rannoch Moor/Glencoe road is treacherous in the wind, I'll decide at Tyndrum which route we take. We'll get a fresh Campingaz canister in Fort William and perhaps a bite to eat? Finally maybe another quick stop to stretch our legs between Fort William and Skye. That's the plan at least.
Oh yes. Oh my. I forget what The Highlands is all about. Swift roads flowing through towering geology mixed with lochs and trees. We're not pushing the limits - we're being swept along with the presumably local traffic, comfortably quick I'd say. Save for a truck and a bemused tourist we swoop into Tyndrum in a gratifying hour.
It's all starting to feel particularly "Highland-y".
We fill up at The Green Welly. The shop within has exactly the canister I require but it's £12.99. Nah, they're only £9.00 at Go Outdoors in Fort William. I check with Sharon, it's a bit breezy but nothing to worry about so we'll take the Glencoe road then eh? Sorted.
The Green Welly... again.
It's a fast road. Well it would be if it wasn't filled with tourists in cars, motorhomes, and coaches. We achieve the dizzying pace of 50mph along the vast open straight section. We're then down to 25mph climbing up to the Loch Talla viewpoint as we're all stuck behind an ancient motorhome, black diesel soot gushing from the exhaust. That pulls into the viewpoint and we are released to gain speed.
...Oh and there's roadworks too as we climb from Tyndrum.
It's no good we need to stop. The scenery is impressive as you'd expect and I can feel Sharon's camera finger twitching even though she's 100 yards behind. I know Glencoe valley will be heaving, I spy the Glencoe ski resort and pull in. I've been past here numerous times but I've never actually stopped here. Sharon gets busy capturing the wonders from all angles while I try to imagine what skiing actually feels like.
Do we look like real adventure types yet?
It is one hell of a place.
Yup the Glencoe viewpoints are packed solid, we ride straight past and continue down down down to the coast and the Ballachulish Bridge. We pass the fuel station that lead to Bogger's recent disaster whereupon I giggle inside my helmet. The rest of the A82 towards Fort William is gleefully beautiful as ever, slow with traffic, and those clouds ahead look a little ominous.
I'm a seasoned tourist here in "Fort Bill", I know exactly where to park. It's only a short stroll into town for Go Outdoors, great, we'll be sorted momentarily. Hmmmmm. The gas canister section is beyond decimated, it's practically bare. They have none of my canisters nor anything else suitable. Poop. I enquire with a young staff member "no that's all we have, it's been busy, you could try Mountain Warehouse?"
Mountain Warehouse is but another short stroll away. Their canister section too is sparsely stocked, and of course they don't have anything suitable. Holy blummin' moly! Campingaz - it's all well and good showing all these stockists but if they have no stock what's the blummin' point? I curse quietly. Campingaz's website also lists Regatta. The Regatta store still has Regatta branding but within it is clearly a clearance shop now, not a gas canister in sight. Argos does list them on their website - but only in packs of 4 and I don't have the space for 4.
I sit, despondently, upon a bench, muttering profanities and pondering my life choices. The whole point of the Coleman petrol stove was to avoid this VERY issue... but the petrol powered stove was always moody and not too long ago became intolerable to use. Campingaz assured me I could buy gas almost anywhere! Lying sods the lot of 'em. Shoulda bought the canister in Tyndrum but that's 48 miles behind us.
As I cuss and mutter Sharon has walked into another random clearance shop. Not a bleeding chance woman, what a stupid idea. They have some, under the counter? Nonesense, silly girl. I go in. They do. The only problem is they're £18... twice the price they should be. Thing is they have 'em and I need one. I pay, reluctantly. This is all Bogger's fault, him and his curse!!
Morrisons for supplies and a bite to eat. Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice, shame on me. Morrisons used to be a source of reasonable food at reasonable prices in their clean, well organised on site cafes. The experience wasn't so clever last time we were in Fort Bill, so why the hell am I surprised when it's not so clever this time?
The prices are *JUST* about acceptable, but the service has gone down the pan and the place is untidy and the staff are disorganised. I'm told there's a half hour wait, OK, but after half an hour I have to enquire as to where our food is. It then arrives with the presentation and aplomb of a roadside burger van and similarly lacking in quality. You'd think I'd learn wouldn't you? The lady's loo is broken too, Sharon has a long wait for the disabled toilet. Damn you Bogger!!
With a sense of disappointment and a few items for breakfast tomorrow we depart.
And here comes the rain. Loch Lochy is a beautiful Loch, far more so than the much more famous Loch Ness. Today it's a blur through the sodden visor and the heavy mist. A brief stop for a few snaps at Glen Garry Viewpoint West, because it's the law. On through the torrent to the A87 and alongside Loch Cluaine. As the rain lightens a little the A87 returns to visible and it is as awe-filled, massive, impressive, beautiful, and tear-inducingly heart-wrenching as ever I've seen it. This, dear reader, this is motorcycling at it's best.
A picture of the bikes at Glen Garry - it's the law.
Admittedly I'm ready to stretch out my legs and ease the hip as The Eilean Donan Castle comes into view. We pass by the filled car park then pull in a mile later. Sharon scoots off with her camera/phone and I stretch and wriggle my limbs. Not far now.
Much quieter a mile from the castle.
Sharon's OWN version of the classic Eilean Donan castle photo. I have proof this is her IP...
The rain returns as we ride through The Kyle Of Lochalsh and I fear crossing The Skye Bridge may be a treacherous affair as we'll be in the wind. Phew! It's not too bad. 9 more miles and in the small town of Broadford we pull off the main road and into Camping Skye. We are here! Great. The rain is easing again, yet there's a firm breeze here, the site is exposed.
It's a short but steep walk from the parking area to the terraced pitches. We heave the luggage to a terrace and start to pitch. The rain is light but the breeze is firm, I'm tired, and this bloody tent is fighting me even with Sharon's help. Stupid effing Campingaz, Morrisons are sh-poop, it's effing blowing a bloody gale and this pole is too freaking LONG!! GET!!! IN!!! YA!!! BAS...
Calm down Ren before you really screw yourself over and break the pole over your knee. Deep breaths, relax, it's fine, no-one's died, it only a tent, I will suss it out. Eventually the blasted thing is up. Even more effort ensues to get pegs into what must surely be bedrock or concrete 10mm below the grass. Even more effort ensues to get the rest of the kit up from the bike. Even more effort ensues to make a brew and charge the vape and get the chair together so I can bloody well sit down and bloody well relax.
Thank Christ for that. Right, OK I've wound my neck in, I've even mustered a laugh thinking bout how I'm going to blame Bogger for all of this on the blog.
Mr grumpy pants is calming himself down.
Thankfully Camping Skye is not far from Broadford. Broadford is tiny, but it has a petrol station and what turns out to be quite a large Co-op. It's only a 10 minute walk in variable rain when Sharon spies a chippy. We've already had a proper meal (if you could call it that) today and we went to the chippy last night, but either Sharon's developed a chip fetish or she really doesn't want to watch me cursing and fighting with the cooking utensils. We go in, we can sit inside for an extra £2 which we do. We share a regular sized portion this time.
We already have breakfast but we get a few extra items from the Co-op, then walk back to the site in the now darkening skies. I've calmed down and the tent is up and we have supplies and the bikes seem OK. Camping Skye has a microwave and kettle in the washing up room - I abuse the kettle for a few brews as we settle in.
Today has not gone as well as I would have liked. So why as I lie in the sleeping bag do I feel OK? With hindsight we have achieved that which we set out to do and nothing has gone SERIOUSLY wrong. I'm looking forward to a couple of days here without having to take the tent down then put it back up again. The forecast isn't the best but at least we're not facing a severe storm or snow. It also helps that The Highlands are as beautiful as I always remember them.
The tent flaps, a shower rattles the taught material, the air is cool but we're both warm within our sleeping bags. Drifting off comes easily.
In a dry moment Sharon captures this most splendid picture before bedtime.
A rough route guide.
Contact BAT via ren@bikesandtavels.com
Prologue - Skye AKA Bogger's Curse
Excuses and complaining... that is all Ren has to offer. A truncated trip, the risk of bad weather, and bad timing. Awww poor poor Ren.
No Rain, Hip Pain, A Train, Rice Grain, Heavy Rain
The Batties are off to Skye! Today though they barely make it to Scotland. Ren expands his culinary expertise, forgets something, and looks happy as always.
Blood And Rain, Finger Pain, Improving Terrain
A short and simple if a little wet ride up to Callander is followed by a (not very) long and tiresome walk into Callander. No pain no gain Ren! There's new friends too.
More Rain, No Butane, Close To Insane
Hey guess what? Ren is having a bad day, alas it's not as bad as most readers will hope. Most of his issues are entirely self inflicted but that won't stop him from blaming Bogger. Don't worry he'll be fine, Sharon is hiding the utensils.
Reader's Comments
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Rain in Scotland, that's unusual.
If you're ever travelling that way again Ren be sure to buy your gas at the Green Welly, much cheaper than random FW shops. You're very welcome.
Still waiting for your views on Skye but I'm a patient, if somewhat grumpy old curmudgeon.
There's a great road from somewhere near Oban to somewhere near FW, I'll check ont'map and get back.
It's the A828 if you have a looksie, from Connel to Ballachulish. Port Appin is a lovely little detour.
Upt.
06/10/2026 17:12:59 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
The A828 you say, oh you mean that road between Fort Bill and Oban? Yes, I know it well Upt', and you are jumping the gun a bit because there's a reasonable chance it might just appear later on in this tale - who knows?!
Thank you for your useless retrospective advice regarding the gas, much unappreciated. And patience!!! If I tell you everything in one go then you'll have nothing to look forward too. There's more France story to come, Andy Gray has been FaceBooking once more so there's that, I'm pensively waiting for another tale of drunken fun and frolics from Bogger as well as some grumbling from me about camp cooking.
You know all this exciting misadventure doesn't just magically appear. Firstly I (and others) have to endure and suffer an actual trip, then it takes days, nay weeks to write it all up, then I have to edit it and get it onto the website. Speaking of which we'd like, insist, even demand some fascinating and inspiring insights into your recent European adventure.
06/10/2026 19:21:13 UTC
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Travel StoriesSkye AKA Bogger's Curse