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Travel Stories5 Fools In South West Scotland
The Rhins Of Galloway
Ride Date 11 June 2025
By Ren Withnell
There's a hammerhead shaped piece of land jutting out from the south-westerly part of Scotland and it is called - apparently - "The Rhins of Galloway". Ever since Sharon and I passed through Stranraer on our first adventure to Northern Ireland I have been meaning to take a look around this odd shaped spit of land.
The Rhins Of Galloway.
I had considered going to have a look on this trip, what with us being in the area and all that. But from the bungalow near Kilmarnock to Stranraer alone being 61 miles of mixed roads plus a planned say 40 miles exploring the Rhins that would make for a 160 mile day. Do-able, definitely, but not necessarily in the relaxed and chilled out manner I would prefer. And yet here I am looking at the maps and planning a route there. Doh.
This is Rik's idea, or is it Rob's, I figure they're as guilty as each other. You see the problem is today's weather looks OK, maybe not as nice as yesterday's but still dry and warm. This being Wednesday and the rest of the week looking wetter Rik and Rob seem up for a longer ride. Heck even Sharon's up for it and Mark will tag along whatever we do. Right. Fine. Gird your loins and harden you're asses, we're doing this.
Mind you it's not too bad, we're not exploring the whole peninsula - just the furthest tip, The Mull Of Galloway and the lighthouse there. That leaves the rest of the peninsula for me to explore as and when I see fit and at my own sedate pace. Fair enough let's just go.
Sat-nav leads us around the back of Ayr once more then off the A77 and... well... somewhere? Kirkmichael then Straiton and then erm... Stinchar Bridge according to later research. If you've read the previous days and in fact any other mentions of this area on this 'ere travelog thingummy you'll know to me this area represents damn good roads with damn good riding - but lacking that breathtaking scenery of Alpine/Highland regions. Well this route through Galloway Forest Park is giving me cause to re-evaluate my opinions.
We start out with rolling hills and arable/grazing lands as picturesque as any The Yorkshire Dales can offer. The hills grow and a sense of remoteness creeps in. The trees become larger and denser, the fields fade into forest consisting of a mix of commercial pines and chaotic natural bush, scrub and woodland. The road narrows to lane-and-a half and twists then turns through it all.
A wild and mixed landscape through the forest.
Sharon will be loving this, she loves a good forest. I know she prefers a traditional deciduous forest and there is some of that between the farmed rows of pines. What she may object to is the road being a random mixture of fresh shiny smooth tarmac and broken, occasionally potholed and gravelly worn out track. It's not bad if we keep our speeds down and with the track not being full width this ain't a fast road.
This is a different kind of beauty. This isn't geological radicalness, this is life in abundance. Trees, bushes, shrubs and grasses, deep greens then vibrant greens, occasional critters (some squashed into the tarmac), and bugs of all kind bouncing off the visor. I - ahem - still prefer geological radicalness but I'm enjoying all this nature and a sense of space to breathe. The bug that just flew up my nose wasn't nice though.
By the time we reach Newton Stewart I'm ready for a brew. Just behind Sainsburys The RiverBank tea rooms sees us right with tea... and another scone for Sharon. With clement skies and light cloud we dine alfresco, chatting in the sunshine.
Sharon's version of ecstacy.
From Newton Stewart the primary route of the A75 leads us smoothly and swiftly west and then sat-nav turns us off the main road onto the peninsula. We are now once more into farmland complete with fields of grass and crop, interspersed with woodland and unfarmed... er, moor, no, bush, maybe heath? The few hills are subtle and the road has gentle curves.
I expected it to feel much more remote, I really ought to know better by now. This is perfectly good land and as such we humans are here, making the most of it. It's not populous, just the odd farm and houses dotted here and there and a couple of villages. It is rural and pretty, I'm reminded of Ireland which is logical as Ireland is just across the water.
The road peters out to single track, the sea comes into view more often, now it starts to feel like a peninsula and just a tad more remote. I'm wondering if it's windy here as there's no trees, we are exposed on all sides here. Did I say remote? We have to throw ourselves into the verge to let a good sized motorhome squeeze by, there's a few cars to deal with as well. It seems The Mull of Galloway Lighthouse and visitor centre are tourist attractions.
This being a Wednesday in June on a pleasant day I suppose it's to be expected - that the car park of a tourist attraction might be somewhat filled. Let me put this into context though. We're not talking Disney Land and 100,000 parking spaces, we're talking a Lighthouse and little visitor centre with parking for maybe 30 cars. We get the bikes stashed between the campers and motorhomes and cars.
We can squeeze a few bikes in one space.
Today is quite a still day inland yet there is a stiff breeze around the lighthouse, so it will be hellish windy here at times. We meander around the lighthouse, take a look at the views, bypass the visitor centre, then chat to a couple in a motorhome with tales of when they used to ride to places like this. The Mull of Galloway Lighthouse is worth a look, I'm glad we came.
There's a light at the end of the tunnel, no, sorry, Rhins.
There is too much blood in my tea-stream and I have sat-nav programmed for the town of Portpatrick. Back along the single track, away from the wind and into the farmland once more. Aha! I'd heard Portpatrick was nice and indeed it is which is a relief. A pretty little harbour, small painted houses, a hotel, and a place to park beside the small lighthouse that protects the entrance to the harbour.
Portpatrick is lovely in the sun.
What I neglected to plan for was a cafe. Fortunately there's one just around the corner, The Boardwalk, who replenish my tea levels as well as snacks all around. Actually it's rather warm, dare I say even hot! Ice cream sweetie? That'll be 2 Magnums as well please, oh my poor wallet. Later we sit awhile beside the harbour enjoying the sun and surroundings.
Right folks - where next? The Electric Brae? Let me warn you - Sharon and I have been before and it was entirely underwhelming.
Stranraer is almost familiar now, I mean I've been here at least twice. After Cairnryan though I'm into new territory as the A77 leads us north. I wasn't expecting much so I'm pleased to find hills and trees, fields and farms, then later the sea comes into view. Oooh Ailsa Craig, it's all becoming familiar once more.
Turnberry? That sounds familiar too and not just because we came this way earlier in the week. Turnberry? Oh. Oh yeah. Right, ahem... Sat-nav has taken us off the A77 onto the A719 where we enter a surreal and different world. Sharp freshly painted buildings, neatly manicured grass, and car parks filled with GETS (Germanic Executive Transportation Systems). This is Trump Turnberry.
I'm going to ignore political bias, recent events, personal opinions, and the Zeitgeist. I want to consider how this vision makes me feel. On the one hand it is undeniably incredibly neat and clean and polished and preened. Don't we all try to keep our kitchens clean and appreciate a freshly made bed? I'd be appalled to arrive at a hotel with skanky toilets and dirty sheets. On the other hand this feels clinical, contrived, and controlled. It's perfect, too perfect, unnaturally perfect.
I laugh to myself. Imagine the look of horror on the manager's face if they came across my CB500X dripping chain oil on the car park. The concierge's quizzical look as I drag my road grime laden saddle bags through reception then book myself in. Sitting down to dine resplendent in my "Ride or Die" tshirt and sandals. "Excuse me waiter, I did ask for a big dollop of mayonnaise on my chips!" My money is as good as anyone else's, I'm far far less willing to spend it though. It's not happening.
The Electric Brae is only around the corner. We park. We look. We look harder. No, none of us can really see it. It's supposed to be what looks like up is down and what looks like down is up. To myself and seemingly the others it's only slightly inclined anyhow and there's nothing unusual or illusional to perceive. Maybe if I stand here? No. Over there? Not really. Nah, I wasn't impressed the first time and I'm still not impressed now. Onwards.
Up, down? Don't know, can't see the illusion or if there's much of a slope at all.
Nothing eventful happens on the ride home, save for myself leading us a merry dance west of Kilmarnock due to my inability to follow sat-nav's instructions. Not to worry, the detour back through the Crosshouse and Gatehead informs us that there's some lovely villages outside of Kilmarnock.
Tea is brewed, food is cooked and consumed and TV is watched. The bungalow remains our welcoming haven in which we relax and chat and chill.
I did think today's ride might have been overambitious and I did get a sore behind and stiff limbs here and there, otherwise it was a worthy ride. There are some tremendous roads in south west Scotland and the scenery has a beauty of it's own, agricultural for the most part, wild and natural in the Forest Park. I am thankful we made the effort because weatherwise today was ideal, tomorrow looks cooler and wetter.
By Sharon Parker
We are all up early again and I text my sister to check on how she is doing. I was worrying about her a lot last night. I am a fixer and I can't seem to fix the situation my sister is in. The chemotherapy for her pancreatic cancer is making her really ill, combined with her low platelets issue the planned chemo regime of 6 sessions, 2 weeks apart, has all but fallen apart.
I do my usual guilt tripping - feeling bad for being away enjoying riding while she sits at home awaiting another platelet count and feeling like poop. I know she can't travel right now because she is not well enough and has hospital appointments to attend but I still feel guilty. I have to have an argument in my own head then push these feelings down into my bike boots, put a smile on my face and join everyone for today's ride.
Luckily today's ride take us through Galloway forest and my favourite place to be is within a forest. I just love woodland. Trees give me a sense of calm and peace that I do not find anywhere else. They soothe my troubled soul and allow me to settle and enjoy the ride as we twist through the forest greenery and pass over bridges with sparkling rivers below.
Green bike, green trees, a perfect combination.
And breathe.
We stop for tea and another Scone - it's Robs fault, and yes I am allowing myself to find joy in this day.
A cuddle from the boyfriend adds to one's happiness.
Back on the bikes and the next destination is the Mull of Galloway Lighthouse. We eventually come to a single track road that will lead us to the lighthouse. I find this hard work. My confidence on the bike is still a work in progress and the uneven surface coupled with dealing with squeezing past other vehicles that always seem to think your bike is smaller than it really is not much to my liking.
We park up the bikes and take a stroll. We are advised by a sign that we are now standing on Scotland's most southerly point with views across the sea to Northern Ireland, Cumbria and the Isle of man. The area is home to rare cliff top plants and seabirds.
The lighthouse is in pristine condition. It was built by Robert Stevenson who commenced building in 1828 with the light being first lit on the 26th March 1830. You can apparently take a walk up to the top of the 26 metre tower via its 115 steps if you are so inclined. You can also stay in one of the 3 former keepers cottages, definitely rooms with a view.
Looking good for almost 200 years old.
The way back along the single track wasn't as difficult to me as the way in. Be that because there was less oncoming vehicles or the fact I did it once so I knew I could do it again? Either way it felt ok and once back onto the wider roads ride over to Portpatrick was very pleasant.
Portpatrick in the sunshine is every bit as picturesque as you could hope a little harbour village to be.
Happy to be here today.
I enjoyed riding today with my summer gear on, my leather jacket, my jeans and short boots. I like the feeling of movement and freedom you get when not covered in onion layers of clothing. No extra layers for warmth, no waterproofs required today. It was a day to remember the joy of riding, of friendships, and smiles and hugs and just the feeling that it is ok to be ok when someone else you love is not ok. This is not always easy but today this was achieved and I got to feel a little less guilty in my own skin.
Advertise here - contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
5 Fools For Kilmarnock - Prologue
The tales of mishap and trepidation leading up to this adventure is not for the faint hearted. Gird your loins we're only at the planning stage so far...
Bungling To The Bungalow
The first day of the South West Scotland Adventure is a total washout. Ren is moist and Sharon is leaking - and yet it's not all bad at the end of the day.
Let The Fun And Fretting Begin
It's the first ride out of the week, an easy one to get things going. Girvan provides the destination for a simple ride that'll get Ren fretting as usual.
Some Rain, A Unicorn, And Disorder
What is Ren doing today? No, he doesn't know either. Mist, rain, cafes and slippery roads are on the menu, plus there's a new member in the group.
5 Ferries In One Day
5 ferries? In one day!? Surely not (don't call me Shirley). That'll be 5 fools on 5 bikes attempting to use 5 different ferries. What could possibly go wrong? Not a lot thankfully.
The Rhins Of Galloway
It's another grand day out for 5 fools in Kilmarnock. There's sunshine, forest, hills, a lighthouse, and a harbour. There's also guilt, a lack of tea, and all kinds of strange places.
Reader's Comments
ROD¹ said :-
I had a ride around the forest last year when I stayed at Kirkcudbright. I agree with your sentiments about riding in a forest. It can only be bettered if you are also riding beside water.
07/10/2025 16:07:43 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Aaah ROD. I love water and Sharon loves trees. As such Sharon is always on the lookout for a perfect property with the sea on one side and a forest on the other. These places do exist - the fly in the ointment is they cost way way WAY more than either of us has to spend.
08/10/2025 09:44:16 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
We like The Rhins, but have only experienced it in late December on two occasions. It was indeed wild.
We weren't on a two wheeled contrivance. I doubt you could actually have ridden one, the wind was a little fierce.
Upt.
08/10/2025 16:16:45 UTC
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Travel Stories5 Fools In South West Scotland