Home
Travel Stories5 Fools In South West Scotland
Some Rain, A Unicorn, And Disorder
Ride Date 9 June 2025
By Ren Withnell
Rik is up and about, it sounds like Rob is stirring too, it's 0515. That seems mighty early but we were all in bed early and both Rik and Rob are truck drivers with early starts. Sharon and Mark remain in their pits as we drink tea. Right, OK so what are we going to do today lads? The forecast is of intermittent rain, it doesn't appear to be a washout so far. Food is consumed, tea and coffee is consumed, ablutions are abluted, and bike gear is donned - yet there still appears to be no definitive plan other than "You're leading Ren".
Fine! We'll start with the cafe at the ornately overmade Wemyss Bay Train Station. I try to persuade sat-nav to not follow the main route and get it programmed accordingly. It manages to get me to Kilwinning then asks me if I wish to redirect due to traffic? No, no I would not. I cannot tell the blasted thing though because I can't press the button because I am wearing gloves and riding and dodging traffic and trying to keep 4 other riders in tow behind me. Looks like we're back on the main road. Sorry
It is raining. The roads in and around the town of Ayr are not particularly pretty or fun, just roads. This is just riding to get somewhere. We then crest a hill whereupon the coast and the wonderful hills and mountains of Arran and The Cowal Peninsula open up majestically in front of you. Well they would if you could blummin' well see them. It is misty, wet and beyond the coastline there is nothing but grey. Sad.
Having ridden this route several times I know this is where you just - JUST start to feel The Highlands. They are there, across the water, in sight but out of reach. Alas today they are not even in sight. Still, in the interest of tradition (or habit) I pull in to the car park beside the coast between Ardrossan and Seamill "to get some pictures".
"Ren and friends - devaluing property prices since 1989."
Not only does Rik have a "pink" Harley and a "pink" trailer and uses a car to get to Scotland - he also has a small, brightly coloured stuffed toy unicorn with him. Yes Rik, of course Rik, it's your niece's is it? She wants pictures of Unicorn having fun and adventures in Scotland with the bikers does she? OK Rik, whatever you say...
Rik's Unicorn wishing it could see the mountains across the water.
The road north along the coast is familiar which is comforting. The rain is light and intermittent, the towns are small and vary between OK and rather nice. Sharon tells me she could see herself living in Fairlie - high praise indeed as she's a bit of a snob. The sea loch looks lovely too, the only hiccup is I yearn to see the other side! Ho well, not to worry, we're close to Wemyss Bay and a brew.
There's no parking spaces at the train station. Natch. Aha! Park on the road, everyone over here!! Oh wait, the sign says Permit Holders Only. Natch. Park on the footpath - everyone over here!! If we park here we'll be blocking the footpath entirely. Is there space down at the bottom there? Nope, staff only. Where the hell is Sharon going - she's just sailed by heading south. Of FFS. Wait! Apparently Permit Holders Only -OR- 1 Hour no return. I should have read the sign properly.
1 hour is enough. Sharon calls me - she's turning around somewhere. By hook and by crook we all get parked and into the train station. Sharon kept calm, made a safe manoeuvre, and collected her thoughts. That's all I ask, keep safe, keep calm and it'll work itself out. Time for a brew and to sit and chill in the charming train station.
The tea is fine, Rob and Sharon are enjoying their scones, and we're chewing the fat just outside the cafe but under the cover of the wrought ironwork and glass of the train station. The air is mild, the station is quiet and I am comfortable. It is a simple thing to sit with friends chatting, most agreeable. Rik has the unicorn out once more.
Brew and a scone Unicorn?
We are allowed to join Unicorn for a drink.
Where next? On Google maps I have pinned numerous places that may or may not be interesting. Up in the hills of Clyde Muirshiel National Park is The Greenock Cut Visitor Centre. It is next to a reservoir and close to Loch Thom. I did say we might run out of places to go... OK?
Inverkip is nice enough, to be frank Greenock is starting to feel rather like being in the city. Sat-nav leads us a merry dance through a housing estate where, erm... errr, I wouldn't wish to park the bike overnight let us say. We turn a few corners and a switchback then pop! We're immediately out of town and into what could be The Highlands or The Dales or The Lakes.
The mist helps, we can't see too far. For all I know there could be a massive industrial estate half a mile away, yet we are wandering down single track among hardy grasses and rocky outcrops. The mist is mizzle making visors blurry so I'm keeping the pace right down, Rik's Harley seems to only fire once in a while. Loch Thom appears to our side and I am impressed. Logic knows we're but a few miles from industrial modernity, here it feels a long way away.
This is actually Compensation Reservoir near Loch Thom, Unicorn knows that!
There's a cafe close to the visitor centre but no-one is feeling the need so we simply take our pictures, make use of the toilets and carry on. We have to return via Greenock as several roads are closed. Looking down from the hills into Greenock reinforces just how industrial Greenock is with cranes and tower blocks. The contrast is amazing, jarring in fact.
We skirt around Greenock and once again we pop out into the countryside and onto B roads wendling their way south through some rather delightful gentle landscapes. We are mostly following the B786 heading towards Lochwinnoch.
This is perhaps South West Scotland's greatest asset for motorcyclists. This area does not enjoy The Highlands' superlative landscapes, I cannot espouse about majestic mountains nor breath-taking coastlines. What I can harp on about is just how many miles of mostly empty and while not superlative still easy on the eye road there is here.
In a world obsessed with the "something...est" where you MUST take an image or a video of yourself merely to gain clicks and envy - this area is a failure. It is surely fine, way way better than Bolton even on a rainy day, but not "AMAZING!" The advantage of course is presently at least once away from the towns there's a lot of jolly good riding to be had. And guess what - we're not sharing it with a gazillion other riders (or cars etc etc).
Lochwinnoch is a small town. There is a cafe but it looks... odd. There's another more traditional one surely? Nope. We've wandered around enough we'll give this one a go. The owner I suspect is bored - we engage in conversation about motorcycling, he knows our home area well and he seems well travelled. It's good to talk with him and his wife a little - although his wife can barely get a word in edgewise.
It's a tad soggy in Lochwinnoch right now.
The rest of our ride back to the bungalow reinforces my thinking - miles of empty roads, mostly arable, low lying hills, small villages and towns. Agreeable as opposed to impressive. By the time we get back it is only mid afternoon and the rain has abated completely now. We drop into Tesco en-masse for more supplies and fuel then return to the bungalow well before teatime.
Recall Rob made us all a splendid chilli last night? Well there was way too much so tonight it's left-over chilli, jacket spuds, tacos, cheese, dips, garlic bread and catch-as-catch-can. My word that chilli was lovely last night, after a whole day festering in the pan today it is exquisite! There are fingers and forks everywhere, dipping and dolloping, and spreading and pinching. It was supposed to be a light meal. Burp!
Just a light snack tonight folks.
With the rain making a light return we're in the living room. We need something to watch and Rob has some kind of Netflix or Sky subscription setup on the smart TV. We need something we can all enjoy, something light, something silly. Schindler's List may be a masterpiece and a heart wrenching classic, but I think we can all agree Smokey and The Bandit is much more suitable for this situation.
Tea is made by various people, a few more snacks are consumed. Once again we are all in bed by 1030, these hardy souls are all worn out once again - proving once more just how hardcore and rock-n-roll we all are. We have to be up early tomorrow, we need to be at Troon's ferry terminal before 0845 for the ferry to Arran.
Considering the weather I'd say today was a success. We've only ridden around 85 miles which feels about right, enough to warm the engines, not too much to become weary. I have learned there are some pretty and not-too-pretty places along the Clyde estuary and an awesome collection of likable roads with some damn good riding if you get inland from The Clyde estuary. I am looking forward to tomorrow - with a lot of reservation because there's a lot that can go wrong with 5 ferries...
By Sharon Parker
I am happy with today's plan to travel to Wemyss Bay. The A78 is a nice stretch of coastal road and it's brings back very fond memories of my first solo trip to Scotland on my trusty 125cc Keeway - Zen. Wow what an adventure that was. The only part of me that ached was my face from the constant smile of wonder and exhilaration. Like your first love you always remember your first bike and Scotland was my first big adventure as a rider.
Today is wet and the roads slippery. My back tyre slides around on a roundabout. Damn these stock Dunlop tyres, they do not inspire confidence in me. I ease off the speed and hope I'm not going to annoy those behind me. I look back to see Rik isn't actually on my tail right behind me, he's a little way back. We stop for a photo break and a chat to Rik reveals he is sliding around himself and keeping the pace down, so I'm not the only one feeling the effects of greasy roads.
Slippery when wet
We continue on at a sedate pace which gives me time to admire Fairlie, a pretty little village that I think would suit both Ren and I. Bordering the Firth of Clyde it has the sea views Ren loves but it's sheltered position allows for plentiful woodland which I love. Yes I like it a lot.
As usual there is no parking to be had at Wemyss Bay Station so we all pull into a space on the main road. I gingerly manoeuvre my bike backwards. The wet roads, the weight of the bike and my still lagging confidence makes me very relieved to park up successfully. Phew. I'm about to get off the bike when Ren says we can't park here and suddenly everyone is doing a u-turn in the road to now collect on the other side of the road.
Ok I'm not feeling this. It's a busy road, it's on a bend, it's wet and traffic unfortunately still makes me nervous. I know there is a petrol station just up the road which will make for a much easier turnaround, so I shout I'm going to turn around there. After turning around at the garage I ride back to where everyone else was by the side of the road, only they are not there now.
Oh great. Where the hell are they all? I carry on back the way we came but still no sign. Time to stop and make a phone call to Ren. Ren answers to tell me they are all back in the original parking spot, apparently we could park there after all. Oh great, that's fine, ok I'm gritting my teeth somewhat if I'm honest. I now have to repeat the park backwards all over again. Second time feels easier fortunately and it's no one's fault other than my own loss of confidence, that's the real problem.
It's such a pity I took that hit from that car. It's knocked me harder than I thought it had. I feel my confidence is actually getting worse now rather than better. I kind of expected myself to be nervous at first, what I didn't expect is 6 months on to find those nerves increasing. It's not now just other traffic, it now seems anything that could cause a drop, such as a bit of a awkward parking, unnerves me. I don't admit this to anyone.
The station is as impressive as always with it's elegant curving architecture of steel and glass.
Originally constructed in 1903 the station has provided over 120 years of function with style.
The flowers displays are a further delight.
The cafe provides the tea that I asked for and Rob provides a scone that I did not ask for. He is a worse feeder than me that man and that's saying something. Back on the bikes Ren leads us on a delightful ride alongside loch Thom. The road is quiet and although damp and misty the calm stillness of the loch works it's magic and it imbues me with its serenity so I can relax a little and enjoy the ride.
Calmness reflecting back to one's soul.
Once home we have baked spuds with Chilli, one of my favourite meals and it goes very well with the wine. We watch Smokey and the Bandit and Burt Reynolds' cheeky sexy smile still makes me smile away in return. I had a big crush on Burt growing up.
Yum!
It is raining outside as we go to bed and I hope the forecast for better weather tomorrow is correct. I don't fancy 5 slippery ferries. Urghh I feel an anxious knot in my tummy over the five ferries. If today's nerves was anything to go by this might prove more of a challenge than I bargained for. Could I just go on the back of Ren's bike I ponder? No I bloody well can't, I have already paid for my bike on one of the ferries and I need to face the fears otherwise I can just forget the whole biking thing.
Advertise here, contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
5 Fools For Kilmarnock - Prologue
The tales of mishap and trepidation leading up to this adventure is not for the faint hearted. Gird your loins we're only at the planning stage so far...
Bungling To The Bungalow
The first day of the South West Scotland Adventure is a total washout. Ren is moist and Sharon is leaking - and yet it's not all bad at the end of the day.
Let The Fun And Fretting Begin
It's the first ride out of the week, an easy one to get things going. Girvan provides the destination for a simple ride that'll get Ren fretting as usual.
Some Rain, A Unicorn, And Disorder
What is Ren doing today? No, he doesn't know either. Mist, rain, cafes and slippery roads are on the menu, plus there's a new member in the group.
Reader's Comments
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Pink Unicorn!
Pffffffftttttt.
As for confidence, everyone is until they aren't. Time and progress are the healers. Hopefully.
Pink!
Really looking forward to the ferry jaunt. Lots of ferry details would be good, you know, just in case.
Is the Train station the ferry dock too?
Blummin pink? I blame social media.
05/08/2025 11:29:30 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
I see and understand what you say about regaining confidence Sharon. I'm sure you'll get there, but it's odd how little things remind you of past trauma.
As regards the area, although it seems pleasant enough is it worth trekking up there? I know it's not far for you Boltonians but doesn't seem to have anything that sets it apart from other rural areas. I'm sure you've been there but northern Northumberland / borders area would be closer and in my experience a great place. And you could even pop in on Upt' and traumatise him........
05/08/2025 12:25:25 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
The train station at Wemyss Bay is slap bang next to the ferry terminal for the crossing to Bute, you can walk from the station to the boat in less than 2 minutes.
With regards the area Ian - as stated up to this point it would be fair to argue there are other areas of equal beauty if not more so - BUT - there's some fabulous riding to be had, and outside of the conurbations it appears to be quieter than many other areas. There's also easy access to some simply stunning locations, some of which we'll catch a glimpse of later in the story. Around Kilmarnock with a caravan - if you're nearby then yes, from Brum - only if you're passing. On a motorcycle? Sure, enjoy the roads.
05/08/2025 13:11:44 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Ta Ren me duck.
Thought it looked familiarly over engineered.
Ian, it is a jolly nice area and well worth a visit, is it as nice as North Northumberland.....God no....but where is. Yes, I am biaised.
The ferry over to Bute (Not Mull! Pffffffftttttt) is a lovely way to experience a little of remote Scottish life without the added 4 hours to the North West Coast.
Wildlife is also resplendent with many birds that I rarely see elsewhere. I mean, when did you last see a Woodcock? Not a question you thought you would be asked today.
Last week's little jaunt into the Borders raised an interesting thought. We visited the Heriot area and Lauder amongst others, it was truly outstanding, I mean "good god how can anywhere be this beautiful" outstanding. Let alone so close to home. So the question to Er'Indoors was, "compared to our Yorkshire extravaganza where does this day ride sit". Er'Indoors reply, "I won't be going back to Yorkshire except for Wetherby services and although today has been magnificent it's no better than the Cheviots".
Nuff said.
Upt.
Pink!
05/08/2025 13:32:41 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Forgot Ian....
Age you know....
Regarding the distance from the Midlands there's probably little difference in time/mileage. Most of the Lake District is probably a lot closer, if I was to travel from North Staffordshire it would be about 2 hours to Penrith, another 2 at most to a lot of D and G but also another 2 to North Northumberland. We're almost as far north as Glasgee.
There end'eth the geography lesson.
Quiet at the back.
Pink!
05/08/2025 13:39:40 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Wooler clearly shown and further north than most of D and G.
05/08/2025 13:44:50 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Wooler may well be further north than Dumfries and Galloway... but it's not quite as far north as Kilmarnock just by a smidgeon if Google maps is to be believed. If you care to note on my map the area we explored on this little jaunt is just north of Kilmarnock as "Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park".
06/08/2025 20:58:39 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
I'll see your smidgeon and raise it by a gnats cock.
07/08/2025 10:53:16 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
It is a common misconception Ed that Northumberland is just like going to the lakes, two hours up the motorway from Bolton. But it is a further two hours from Penrith to home, that's either the A7 through Hawick or the A69 over to Newcastle upon the Tyne.
From Penrith I could probably be in the Trossachs just a quick. Although I am guessing.
Thanks for the map clarification leader.
Upt. But am I further north than Henrik, another map required.
Pffffffftttttt.
07/08/2025 10:57:50 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
If you trust google maps I have a london bridge you maye be interested in. Or how about this gold brick....
07/08/2025 12:55:55 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I know the story of someone selling London bridge... not so sure of the gold.
In the kingdom of the blind the one eyed man is king. I'm sure google maps are not without there errata but their databases and systems know far more places and routes than I ever will. Without google maps I'd still be in Portugal trying to find my way to Spain. No. Wait. That's not a good example... I'd rather be lost in Portugal than here in grim and gritty Bolton. Dagnammit.
If Henrik is in Denmark then it is possible you're on a similar latitude to him. If however he's already at Lofoten then he's WAY north of anywhere in the UK Upt'.
07/08/2025 14:18:23 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
How much?
07/08/2025 14:18:54 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Hopefully this might help you understand where the UK sits compared to Denmark. I tend to imagine Denmark as being much farther north than it actually is.
07/08/2025 14:26:22 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
And Lofoten is up in the Artic Circle so that's WAY Norf. Makes you Upt' look like a proper suvvenor.
07/08/2025 14:30:41 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Pffffffftttttt.
07/08/2025 14:34:43 UTC
Henrik said :-
Just retired partly, so the main-base is now our house in Sweeden, (Lammhult), its a little more north than Edinbough
Its a good base for travels real far north, we hit the Norwegian border in 4 hours, "my thing", just love the north
Got no plans going south, east, or west,.. at all ;-)
Nice article and pictures here
Looks like a nice trip, sure, obviously the nature, but the train-station also, and Danish Lurpark on the table :-)
In return I might consider Triumph 400X, I know, its from India, but still :-) (saw one in a shop a few days ago)
07/08/2025 23:13:32 UTC
Name
Comment
Add a RELEVANT link (not required)
Upload an image (not required) -
Uploading...
Home
Travel Stories5 Fools In South West Scotland