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Travel StoriesScotland, And A Little Rain
Finally - The Highlands
Ride Date 3 June 2024
By Ren Withnell
The style of this bed is like something Miss Marple would sleep in from what, the 40s, 50s? I suppose the mattress must be newer as it works perfectly well.
Today's plan. The rest of the lads made their way to Kilmarnock yesterday, Sunday. Janine in her van has been on the road a while longer, making her way up the east coast, but she's now with them at Kilmarnock. They'll be wanting breakfast and it'll take a while to get their collective poop together so I figure they'll be on the road by, oh, I dunno, 1000?
From Kilmarnock to McInroy's Point ferry terminal is 1 hour 10 according to Google. According to shenanigans, group riding, some idiot forgetting they need petrol and the desire for cake, I reckon they'll be at the ferry by 1200. According to the confirmation email we need to be out of here by 1100 hence my choice of meeting point, the cafe at Holy Loch Marina. We can sip tea and if it's raining keep dry while they get there.
The current state of disorganisation.
Speaking of rain. The forecast is totally dry, which is good. I don't trust forecasts and yesterday I had trouble with the zip on my waterproof jacket and now it has failed me. There's plenty of places to get a new waterproof jacket in Fort William but if it rains today I'm going to get drenched. Urgh. There's a shop right next to the cafe that sells these things but guess what - it's closed on Mondays. DOH!!
An appropriate amount of miscommunication and disorganisation sees Sharon and I rapidly leaving the bungalow as they'll be here sooner than I thought. Only we learn as we finalise loading the bikes they have indeed stopped for cake and my original estimate was about right - 1200-1230. Grrr. Not to worry, it's a lovely day so far so I make a point of filling up at the cheap petrol station before making the short ride back to Holy Loch Marina and the cafe.
Quick! Load Up! Now wait...
The cafe is spot on. We sit outside on the decking in glorious sunshine, one of the staff brings out a big sunshade umbrella thing which keeps the heat off. Guess what? He's a biker. You know the score - what ya got, where ya going, what about the weather, and so on. He's looking at our bikes, we're looking at his, all the while waiting to hear that distinctive rumble of Rik's exhaust.
I notice the door to the shop that sells (amongst other things) waterproofs is open, but I'm too polite to go in. Sharon on the other hand just walks right in then comes back to tell me the owner's there and we can go in, despite the shop being closed. The owner is a big chap with large hands that know what a hard day's graft is. He has a cheery and helpful disposition and with a smile and a few questions has me purchasing a new waterproof over-jacket. Apparently this jacket is all the rage with sheep farmers? Dunno, don't care as long as it keeps me dry.
Aha - there it is. The distinctive rumble come flatulence of an almost open-piped Hardly Dangerous. It's peculiar Rik's exhaust. When you're stood next to it, it sure is terrible loud. And yet when you're away from it it's audible, but not offensively so. It's a different noise from a screaming 4-banger with a race can, perhaps that's why HD owners seem to get away with noisy pipes more.
Rik's entirely unsuitable machinery for Highland exploration.
Rob's 750 HD ain't much better.
Mark's CB500 is obviously the much better choice.
Is there a collective noun for a bunch of fools on motorcycles?
More tea, more conversation with the chap from the cafe, an introduction to Janine's new dog, and all under the now scorching sunshine. Mindful of the time and miles I gently edge the crew back towards their bikes, and Janine to her van. We hit the road.
It's true to say Lock Eck is now familiar to Sharon and I, yet I remain impressed by it's tree lined shore, the steep mountain walls on the opposite side, the colours, and the feelings it imbues. Yep, it's here now, that highland feeling. It's a slightly different feeling with Sharon now aboard a Z400, with 3 other bikes tailing out behind me, with Janine somehow keeping up in her van. Different is good, right?
Loch Eck really is adorable.
It's 36 miles to Inverary. 36 miles back home is at least an hour's ride, or 45 boring minutes on the motorway. Here it's probably 45 minutes too but it passes in a flash, it feels more like 10 minutes. Between carving a few corners, admiring the scenery, revelling in the sensations of the bike, and breathing deeply the crisp air - time melts away, time is a cruel master.
We grab a drink and a few supplies at Inverary's Co-op then depart and back onto the great roads once more. North on the fabulous A819, left onto the A85, across The Connel Bridge and now it's time for another cafe! This time it's The Racer Cafe south of Barcaldine. I'm aching, pleasantly so. Those last miles, seeing all this again, the mountains, the scenery, the roads, it all pulls at my being and I ache to be here. I am here and it is as good as I could hope it to be.
The view from Inverary Co-op is good.
The cafe's view ain't bad either.
The cafe ain't cheap but nothing is these days. We partake in various meals and snacks outside in the bright sunshine, make friend's with Janine's dog, wince as some kid comes a-cropper on the kid's play area, and chat. We have time to start catching up now. Sharon and I consider this lot friends but we don't hang out all that often which means there's plenty to talk about.
The last miles from Barcaldine to Fort William are visually pleasant but the road is busy now. Big trucks can't get past cyclists on these corner filled lanes leading to crawling at times. I know this, I've been here before, I know we're not far away so it's easy to keep my frustration in check.
Fort William is like being back home I've been here that often. The views out from the town are Highland delights, the town itself is nothing special, it is just a town like any other. It's also a town in which I have many happy memories so I'm pleased to be back. The holiday park is north of the town and easy enough to find. We book in, Sharon and I pitch up while the rest settle into 2 static caravans.
We start the evening with a glass of pop in the onsite bar, but we need sustenance. There's an Aldi and M&S Food Hall a mile away so we take a stroll to acquire supplies. Ben Nevis towers above everything, swathed in sunshine and there's just one tiny teeny patch of what might be snow up there. Everyone stocks up of grub and snacks and we return via the surprisingly busy A82, it's moving but bumper to bumper heading into the town.
A snow free Ben Nevis, quite a rare sight.
It's not all splendid scenery, sometimes it's just the ordinary stuff.
In Rik and Mark's static caravan we all pile in and abuse their oven, their stove, their cutlery and their crockery. By the time we're all done the kitchen and seating area are in chaos. Like the good kind people we are we all chip in and swiftly restore some sense of order before sitting around to chat and eat snacks.
Janine's still working in that there London village, Mark's retired on ill health leading to fiscal shenanigans, Rik still thinks his Harley is the best thing since sliced bread, and Rob's trying to buy the land his garage is on. All perfectly normal nonsense in our lives and the evening passes pleasantly.
Another wonderful day. My life has fallen into a routine that any working life falls into so it is good to break out of that routine. It's been a joy to be on the bike, I'm more at ease with travelling these days. I'm enjoying spending time with my friends, and there's more to come I'm sure. As we settle into the sleeping bags and turn off Sharon's new tent "lantern" (LED soft light torch) there is but one crinkle in this otherwise perfect world. The weather is due to change.
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Prologue - Scotland, And A Little Rain
In the lead up to this year's trip with friends it's all sorted and settled very swiftly. With that done all Ren has to do is contain his antici...pation and try to be a growed up and not a child. No hope.
A Lovely Start
Good weather, good roads and a good campsite next to a pleasant town. There must be something wrong with the universe if Ren isn't grumbling and griping, this can't last.
Northbound, A Ferry And Big Trees
The Dynamic Muppets are continuing their ride north and so far there's no major disasters. There's roads to be ridden, a favourite ferry and a strange new place to explore.
Finally - The Highlands
It's the time of The Gathering in The Highlands (some of you might get that...). The sun is shining, Ren is less miserable than usual and all is well. Wait, are we on the right website here?
Mixed Weather And Mixed Roads, Mallaig And Strontian
With mixed weather on the cards it'll be interesting to see what the day brings. Not everything goes quite to plan but things are done, motorcycles get ridden and sights are seen.
Deluge, Disaster, And Delights
Oh what a day! There's disaster and rain, sunshine and delightful hospitality, and the drama of weather and Highland scenery. Buckle up.
Easy To Dalwhinnie And Shameful Friends
It's an easy day's ride in The Highlands today although not everything is going quite the way it should. It doesn't help when Ren's friends are shopping for... soap.
It's Been A Fair Old Day
After a great week in The Highlands it's time to leave. However fate doesn't want them to leave, nor does Ren. Things aren't going quite to plan today.
Homeward Bound And Epilogue
After yesterday's debacle things are going much better for Sharon and Ren today. It's an easy ride home and the final summing up.
Reader's Comments
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Ta me duck.
Are there log cabins on that site?
I think we might have stayed there in a previous life.
I've walked up that ugly piece of Granite (4 times I think), I wouldn't recommend it. Although you'd be dry in ya lambing jacket.
Upt.
23/07/2024 11:54:12 UTC
nab301 said :-
Who'd have thought , sunshine , bikes and the Highlands, as for the HD 750, I did see a shop load of them when they were released years ago but have never seen on one the road.
Can you post up a photo of your lambing jacket or will it make an appearance in the next instalment!
Nigel
23/07/2024 12:33:55 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
The site is Ben Nevis Holiday Park Upt', and I don't recall log cabins as such but some of the statics had faux wood effect? As for walking up that big lump of granite - norra chance. There's far better things to be doing including riding motorcycles around the area.
I shall add an image or 2 of my looking ever so stylish and handsome in the sexy new jacket...
24/07/2024 07:57:38 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I am now a man of sharp class... pass me that sheep will ya?
24/07/2024 07:58:22 UTC
nab301 said :-
Lovely ! Joking aside is it a flexothane jacket? , I know someone who used to swear by that material for biking ?
Nigel
24/07/2024 12:29:22 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
YES! It is flexothane, it sez so on he label :)
Have I inadvertently purchased something good?
24/07/2024 16:36:55 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
The question has to be asked.
Would you let this man near your sheep?
Thought not.
Oh the irony, washing instructions!
Upt.
25/07/2024 09:00:09 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
I can't remember Ed smoked either.
Stop it! Just stop it!
25/07/2024 09:01:52 UTC
nab301 said :-
" Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
YES! It is flexothane, it sez so on he label :)
Have I inadvertently purchased something good?"
Possibly ! I know someone who had a flexothane jacket that was past it's sell by date as a jacket but managed to recover a torn motorcycle seat with what was left....
Nigel
28/07/2024 15:59:29 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Flexothane - it's the future! So if I ever happen to have a ripped seat cover I'll know what to do. Thanks nab301.
29/07/2024 19:00:24 UTC
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Travel StoriesScotland, And A Little Rain