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Travel StoriesROD's Rapid NC500
The NC500 Continues
26 September 2023
By ROD
I sleep well, and do not wake until daylight. The tent is blowing in strong winds this morning. I get myself washed and ready, and pack up camp. It is my intention to get food supplies in Thurso before continuing around the NC500 route. I leave the site at 07:20 and ride into Thurso, but the Lidl does not open until 08:00. I am not waiting around for half an hour so I get on my way.
My wife called last night with the information that storm Agnes was on its way and it looked likely that it would hit western Scotland on Wednesday. With this in mind I plan loosely to ride to Applecross campsite and head east the following morning away from the storm.
The wind this morning is very strong and I would not want to be on the light weight 125 in this wind. The north coast is a very open wind swept landscape and I notice wooden frames fabricated outside of houses, to house the waste bins so they do not blow away. On arrival at Bettyhill I notice a drop in the wind, and I note that they have a campsite here which is very well sheltered from the wind.
The motorhomes and campervans are still parked from last night in their overnight stops, so the road is not busy. Riding down the hill from Tongue and looking across the Kyle of Tongue gives the feeling that you are miles from anywhere. I make a stop on the crossing to take in the views and the atmosphere before moving on to Durness.
From Durness the scenery becomes more undulating and interesting, and finally the wind drops to a more enjoyable level. From here on the road is never far from water be it rivers, lochs, or the sea.
As I turn off the main road onto the Drumbeg Peninsula there also seems to be a large amount of water gathering in the sky. This is a part of the NC500 which many avoid and take the main road down to Ullapool. There are signs telling people that the roads are not suitable for caravans motorhomes ect. I only see one motorhome on this section but there are a few campervans. This section is nearly all single track roads with passing places and some steep gradients are encountered.
I make a stop at a coastal carpark and take in the views. The rain I was expecting did not materialize and the wind has gone completely.
The problem with all this amazing scenery is that you can be distracted and it is easy to miss your turnings. This becomes more of a problem as the roads are single track so you have to ride to the next passing place where turning takes at least a 7 point turn. I ride on, off the peninsula and on to Ullapool. Here I make a stop for fuel and a few supplies, and top up the kettle for a brew stop in around half an hour.
I make my stop and feel it is time to get the waterproofs out as the sky is now very black again and there is a fine mist in the air like you get in low cloud. It does not take long before the heavens open. This is proper Scottish rain, and although I have had heavy rain in the Cairngorms, this rain will definitely test the waterproofs.
I push on past Torridon and Shieldaig and on to the single track road around the Applecross Peninsula. I catch a motorhome which is travelling at between 15 and 25mph, and he seems to have no idea what passing places are for. He eventually pulls over to allow oncoming traffic to pass and I take this opportunity to pass.
The rain starts to ease, and the traffic is light.
Then I am faced with a car reversing at some speed towards me! I stop, and he reverses into a passing place just in front of me, and I pull in behind him. I see a lady waving her arms and walking in the middle of the road. Following this lady are around 7-8 Porsches with club sticker on the front.
The cars pass and the lady tells me to be careful along the next stretch of road as there have been a lot of accidents this year. Indeed I see the evidence of bits of car laying at the side of the road as I ride along to Applecross sands, however this is not my main concern at this moment. With the heavy rain the road is flooding at numerous points, and it is difficult to judge the depth on these single track roads. I pass through each flood without incident.
As I reach Applecross it has stopped raining, so I should be able to pitch here in the dry, but it is still early. I stop near the campsite turn, but decide to carry on over Bealach Na Ba. The roads are still wet, and there is low cloud cover at the view point at the top.
Luckily the clouds clear on the way down, and the views are fantastic.
I carry on along the A890 looking for a camping spot.
Many miss this part of the NC500 and head south. I can understand this. Although there are lochs rivers ect along this road, the roads are lined with trees so you do not see them. I travel on towards Inverness and see a campsite in a village. I pull into a petrol station opposite take off my waterproofs and fill up.
The waterproofs have failed the Scottish rain test with a damp crotch, not soaking wet, just damp. The lady serving in the petrol station informs me that I would need to ring a bell on the campsite gate, and failing that there is a phone number to ring.
On ringing the bell a lady appears and asks if a have a booking. I tell her I do not have a booking and she said it's the end of their season and only people with a booking can stay. I explained that I only have a small tent and will leave around 08:00 in the morning and with my best smile asked please would she let me stay the night. She agreed, and £12 was paid for the pitch. I was informed that the shop just outside the site was open, and and a fish and chip shop was open about 100 yds up the road. I pitch the tent and make my way to the chippy.
The fish and chips are very good, and the campsite excellent. The site is Riverside caravan park at Contin. This site would make a very good base for someone who prefers to base themselves on a site and do different sections of the NC500 on different days without carrying the camping luggage.
I watch a little YouTube and get into bed. I reflect on a very enjoyable day despite some heavy rain, and think of the guy who did this on a 100cc Yamaha. I feel that if I had decided to do this on my 125 it would have been more like an endurance test than an enjoyable ride. It would have been cheaper on fuel, but would have taken longer so more campsite costs. The guy on the 100cc Yamaha travelled light and spent a fortune on hotels, and did no cooking so had all of his food at cafes and hotels.
The site is quiet apart from a couple of owls calling and I soon drift off to sleep.
Daily mileage. 361
Spend
Food. £14.90
Fuel. £49.31
Campsite. £12.00
Advertise here - contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
The Road North
ROD wisely selects the motorcycle of choice before heading out into the big wide world. There's some rain, some Scotland and a questionable choice of sleeping arrangement.
Cairngorms And The Start Of The NC500
After a restless night ROD finally reaches the NC500 and sets out in the correct (counter clockwise) direction. Will tonight's sleep be better now he's learned how to install earplugs?
The NC500 Continues
ROD covers most of the NC500 is one day and still has time on his hands. He's hoping to get all the best bit's done before Storm Agnes spoils the party.
The Road South
ROD rounds of his whistle-stop NC500 with... a 500 mile ride back home. There's some interesting final figures to note too.
Reader's Comments
Bros Steve said :-
Very interesting write up. I also saw the video of the guy on the 100 and yes he did spend a lot on hotels, some of the prices making him raise an eyebrow and doubtless loads of others me included.I like camping but have to admit to liking hotels when travelling in Europe. Maybe I will consider camping again sometime.
01/12/2023 12:26:43 UTC
nab301 said :-
Rod, some great scenery there and the RT looks pretty good too. Just to lower the tone a bit Should there be a "T" somewhere in damp crouch .... as for the damp patches , I always reckon you're ok as long as they're cold and damp , if they're warm and damp get worried!
Nigel
01/12/2023 15:19:15 UTC
ROD¹ said :-
Bros Steve, I guess most of us have a budget to work with, some higher than others.
We all make choices how we use that budget.
Some will choose hotels and less trips, some will choose campsites and more trips, and some will choose wild camping and even more trips.
I would love to stay in hotels, but the cost, benefit equation stops me.
01/12/2023 20:29:27 UTC
ROD¹ said :-
nab301, Yes Nigel the nc500 does not disappoint for the scenery.
As for any spelling mistakes, I did warn people that writing was not my strong point, and I am sure that our editor has saved many more mistakes like this, but this one has slipped through the net.
I still love the old RT!
01/12/2023 20:28:27 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I have corrected the crouch / crotch error - thanks for pointing that out nab301. I do read the contributions and correct any errata I find and OCCASIONALLY rewrite the odd sentence. I congratulate ROD's contribution on requiring very little editorial assistance.
ROD said - "Some will choose hotels and less trips, some will choose campsites and more trips, and some will choose wild camping and even more trips." I agree totally. I would love to luxuriate in glorious warm gold plated hotels but my equation is like ROD's - more on hotels = less trips overall. There is too, a certain kind of challenge and then satisfaction of facing the challenge to camping when the weather is "less than ideal".
We all need to find our own balance. I get the sense some people take to camping as easily as a duck takes to water. For some sleeping through the night on cold hard ground or soggy cold mud is as natural as being a miser comes to me. I struggle with camping but in the end, when all is said and done, I think I enjoy it.
02/12/2023 09:25:22 UTC
Bros Steve said :-
I agree it is down to budget. Camping and more trips makes sound sense.
02/12/2023 10:11:55 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I'm waiting for Upt's take on this subject :)
02/12/2023 20:59:55 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Thanks for the write up Rod. I admire you're enthusiasm for riding in the rain and cloud of wee bonny Scotland. I think I've already endured my share of Scotlands rain so I prefer the sunny side of riding north of the border, or anywhere else for that matter.
I don't see wet crotchety bits or soggy tents a challenge, more of a why wud ya. But like already posted the world is full of all types of nut cases, me included. It should be big enough for all of us.
Budget is obviously important, there's a cost of living crisis don't ya know, but if it was all about the money wouldn't we just sit at home with the thermostat on 10 ( yes that high ) and allow ourselves one shower a week whether we needed it or not. Then afterwards a big plate of boiled potatoes with half an ounce of butter on top, even a little salt if we wanted to push the boat out.
But I digress, again, the pictures are a lovely memory of areas enjoyed, I stayed at the Tongue Hotel for a few nights many years ago, the food is local, gamey and hearty and the whisky plentiful. Or it was.
My only other view on camping, if not already discussed is how could you do it two up. We travel pretty light, two panniers and a top box, from memory a total of 128 litres.
Where could I also carry a tent, two sleeping bags, mats, cooking essentials, food and water etc. I figure I would need a trailer and that ain't gonna happen. Ever.
So I'll travel by bike as long as the good lord allows and enjoy my rides with Er'Indoors ( when she allows ) and yes that will have to involve hotels, apartments, eating in cafés and restaurants but it's hardly a hardship and if that means a 3 week ride instead of a 6 week ride, ces't la vie.
From a cost point of view we have just stayed ( car journey ) in a converted farm building with underfloor heating, wet room, hot tub, TV, oven, hob, microwave, very nice king-size bed, food for breakfast and choccy biscuits included for £60.00 a night. Not too extravagant.
Upt.
04/12/2023 17:01:58 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Right then Upt', where's this place with underfloor heating, wet room, hot tub, TV, oven, hob, microwave, very nice king-size bed, food for breakfast and choccy biscuits included for £60.00 a night? I'm in, sign me up, sounds fab.
Seriously, Sharon and I are already looking for a short winter break and this could be just the ticket.
05/12/2023 08:13:58 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Message sent Ed.
05/12/2023 09:07:56 UTC
ROD¹ said :-
Yes Upt', This day was a little more rain than I would have liked. The rain was not really a problem, it was the flooding which accompanied it.
I have been two up camping on many occasions, but you have to travel very light. On large touring bikes you can strap the extra sleeping bag, sleeping pad, and extra clothing on top of the panniers. The rest of the luggage is the same as solo.
Yes we have both slept in the tent I took on the nc500.
On smaller bikes without the carrying capacity then a trailer is the only legal option, but you can take more stuff and a bigger tent.
The converted farm building sounds great.
I hope you had a great time there.
05/12/2023 14:02:40 UTC
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