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Travel StoriesIsle Of Man 2014
Into The Isle Of Man
By Ren Withnell
When your father calls you to invite you to join him in a rented cottage on the Isle Of Man for a few days there is only one possible answer.
Whether or not the gf takes her own motorcycle or comes on the back of mine, that's another thing. It obviously costs more to take 2 motorcycles with 2 riders than one motorcycle with 2 riders. And is she allowed to ride her 125cc bike on "L" plates on the Isle Of Man? Everyone seems to think so. Research into taking the gf to Europe on "L" plates lead us to believe that a provisional licence is only valid in the country of issue, ie the UK. The Isle Of Man is...and is not...part of the UK. They have their own bank notes, their own registration plates and we learn they also have their own driving licences. Then I find this on the island's government website :-
Learner drivers
You cannot drive in the Isle of Man if your driving licence or driving entitlement issued outside the Island is only a 'provisional' licence or entitlement held by a learner driver.
http://www.gov.im/categories/travel,-traffic-and-motoring/drivers-and-vehicles/driving-licences/new-residents/
That, much to the gf's disappointment, solves that question. She'll have to come on the back of my bike.
My bike is another issue. The gf got all giddy recently and took to riding her own bike rather than being a pillion. That's fine. Since then I've chopped in my ageing Fazer 600, perfect for massive 2 up miles with heavy load, for a smaller 250 that's more economical, lighter and fun to ride. And now, for the first time in my life, I am going to a tiny part of the world that does not have a speed limit in the countryside. Imagine that! I could have achieved 140 miles per hour on the Fazer given a good clear straight. As it is I'll be lucky to achieve 80 mph on the 250. And I'll be 2-up on the diminutive machine. ARGH!
It also appears the light, nimble and economical 250 I have purchased is a pup, a lemon, a bit of a shed. It only ticks over when REALLY warm, the tappets were tight, the disc was warped, there's not a straight panel in sight and the motor rattles especially when cold. I do love it though, it handles like a dream. In accordance with being a lemon after I've spent a fortune and ages making it better it decides 2 days before departure to reveal the clutch cable is about to snap. I am however a very lucky man. I have a friend with the same model who removes the new clutch cable from his bike and sells it to me at cost price. BIG big thanks to Stephen Latchford.
Don't fancy the chances of that lasting much longer.
I have a scrap of paper from an email that is allegedly my ticket, but I'm not so sure. I have a CBF 250 with a brand new clutch cable but I can't help wonder what else is about to break. I have some luggage and some tools but I wonder what I've forgotten. I have a weather forecast that is very good but you can never trust the weather. I have the gf and myself, of this much I am certain.
So it is we find ourselves at the dock close to the Liver Building in Liverpool. We are both here in good order and good time, the sun is shining, it is a beautiful day and we are off to the Isle Of Man. Things look even better when my scrap of paper is returned to me with 2 boarding passes. We're directed to the front of the queue and join two other bikes. A gentleman from the Midlands is assisting a suave and stylish Italian couple with suggestions of accommodation and places to visit. A couple on a massive Triumph Rocket join us and we all chat about the weather and the island. Now I'm here, now I'm ready I am starting to relax and I'm look forward to this break.
Just waiting for the ferry in the sun.
I've seen pictures of Manannan, the massive catamaran vessel that will speed us to Douglas but to see it in the flesh is still impressive. It's not the size, there's much bigger boats, it's the way it manages to float. The 2 hulls do not seem large enough to displace enough water yet here it is backing awkwardly into the dock so the science must work. With a clunk and a crunch we roll into the hold and we're parked next to a simple rail, "sidestand down and in gear please". A Deck hand simply places a thin worn rope around the right footpeg and lashes the other end to the rail. Part of me thinks that will never be enough, the other part has to accept this boat moves tens of thousands of motorcycles every year, they must know what they're doing, don't they? The guy on the Rocket 3 looks far more concerned than myself.
This will be our transport for the next few hours.
The Manannan seems to crawl out of the Mersey Estuary, it's not until we're well out to sea before the captain opens the taps. I didn't know we had oil rigs off the Southport coastline, but we do. I know there are some wind farms off the North Wales coast, I didn't realise they were this vast. I thought there might be the odd ship out here, but it's a busy place the Irish sea. Other than learning about the industrious waters the trip passes without event. Tea and food on board is a little pricey, there's only a small area at the back of the boat where you can get outside, there are 2 small cinema rooms showing random films and there's a posh bit upstairs but only if you pay extra. And one BIG problem. No smoking. No, you can't step outside for a ciggie, you can't smoke anywhere at all on board. That's not a problem for me, I have my e-cig, yay! Nope. You cannot "vape" either. Not inside, not outside, not anywhere. Good job it's only a 2 and 3 quarter hour crossing.
I'm bored by the time the Isle Of Man comes into view. As we come into dock a recorded message instructs all the car passengers to make their way to their vehicles. The captain ensures everyone is on their feet and making their way down stairs to the car deck before he executes a handbrake turn into the dock. Everyone wobbles, grabbing rails, cars, motorcycles and each other. Nice one, I bet the crew are laughing their butts off on the bridge. With another clunk and clank we pop out into the sun and the Isle Of Man,
Douglas, on first impressions, is just like any other small port town. Buildings, shops, confusing roundabouts and the smell of the sea. Fortunately my Dad's rented cottage is in Crosby on the A1 that runs straight out of Douglas to Peel. Oh wow! There's red and white padding on the corner of this roundabout, we're on the TT course! It's June the 16th today, the last TT race was June the 6th so I guess they've not finished clearing up. Every biker knows about the TT at the Isle Of Man and here am I riding this hallowed tarmac just like Dunlop, Agostini, Hailwood and Martin. My approach is different to theirs, I stick to the speed limit and take a moment to look around. I've heard so so so many friends and riders talk of this place, and now I am here. Wow.
The cottage is clean, modern, smart and the gf and I have our own bathroom, en-suite. Dad seems concerned about the accommodation meeting our standards, I have to reassure him we're used to a cramped tent, toilets that are 10 minutes walk away in the cold, one stove, 3 pans and sleeping bags on ground rolls. This is luxurious beyond our wildest dreams, and Dad's paying. I have no complaints, at all.
I mean, it's not like it's a bad view from the cottage either.
Remember I was worried I'd forgotten something? Yeah, the charger for my e-cig. After off-loading the luggage and a brew the gf and I return to Douglas to find an e-cig shop. We walk from one end of the town to the other, the first shop is closed on Mondays. Damn. A scruffy youth in a shop doorway very kindly points us to the other end of town. Another long walk reveals nicotine addiction relief in the form of a curious shop, this one is open and the disinterested man behind the counter sells me a charger. Phew. Douglas could be any town from what we see. It's smaller than most cities, much smaller, yet there's the Boots, the Co-op, the trendy clothes shops, a tiny shiny mall and the obligatory McDonalds on the outskirts of town. It's just a town. The horse drawn tram on the promenade is different though.
Douglas' shop filled street could be any town in the UK.
You won't find this in Bolton town centre though.
After a bite to eat Dad and his wife take us in their hire car to Peel. Peel is a small place yet comes complete with a solid harbour wall, a few small shops, some delightfully strange higgledy piggledy houses and a tall steel chimney that dominates and ruins the town. As I walk the streets in the slowly setting sun I feel calm and content. I have my charger, the motorcycle's not broken, yet, the cottage is comfortable and even the gf looks cheery. Within the bay and the harbour wall we find 3 small Viking style boats being rowed by enthusiastic if not competent young men and women. There's no explanation but it is a curious thing to see. The gf looks into an estate agent's window. It seems we'll not be moving here, not at these prices.
The Viking style boat in the peaceful Peel Harbour.
The rest of the evening is spent at the cottage. It's time for me to catch up with Dad who I've not seen in over a year, to read some magazines left in the cottage, to take a shower and settle in, to watch some TV and then to get some sleep. I think I like the Isle Of Man so far.
Into The Isle Of Man
The first day of our Isle Of Man break. We sail the Irish Sea, search Douglas and walk around Peel
Isle Of Man - The North Side
Today we look around the northern part of the Isle Of Man. Jurby Junk, Point Of Ayre, The TT Circuit and The Bunglalow.
Isle Of Man - The South Side
This time we explore the southern side of the Isle Of Man. Beautiful sea views, slow riding, fast riding, sunbathing and harbours. It's all here you know.
A Final Poke Around The Isle Of Man
We take a mooch around the Isle Of Man to find sheep tracks, steep switchbacks, a non magnetic hill and ice cream.
Final Day And Thoughts - Isle Of Man
The return trip from the Isle Of Man and Ren's thoughts about the place.
Reader's Comments
james cub said :-
Nice write up! I did my first IOM in 2013 and loved the place. I also quite fancied a cbf 250, I've ridden them briefly at work and liked the handling and lack of weight etc...but when they came up for sale at work the mechanics all told me that our particular 2008 cbf's had had a lot of engine trouble...
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
The CBF 250 is a queer machine. It's not without it's foibles and yet I...I must admit...I've rather fallen for it. I'll be writing it up soon as a review so I'll explain more then.
01/01/2000 00:00:00 UTC
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Travel StoriesIsle Of Man 2014