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Kawasaki ZZR 600 Restoration
Restoration dates from 2015 - 2016
By Stephen Latchford
I've got to admit it I like tinkering with motorbikes. 18 months ago I acquired a sorry looking ZZR 600 D which had been stood for over 10 years, to cut a long story short I swapped it for my CBF250.
The brakes were seized on back and front, the fuel in the tank smelled putrid, there was a big chunk of fairing missing, lots of rust, cracked tyres etc. but the main problem was that the ignition lights were not coming on after fitting a new battery. The first job was to get it running so with a new main fuse fitted and the side stand switch bypassed I had ignition lights. I then drained each carb of the stale fuel and rigged up a fuel supply in the form of a plastic bottle connected to the fuel pipe. I pushed the button and the ZZR eventually started but sounded very rough indeed.
So that was great! It's a runner which means I could set about re-commissioning everything.
I removed the rust from the tank by filling it with malt vinegar and leaving it for 3 days. I then gave it a POR15 treatment which coats the inside of the tank, it looks and smells like silver paint and takes a while to work it all the way around the inside. The tank was then left for 8 days to harden.
The brake callipers were all seized solid and no amount of compressed air moved any of the pistons. One trick I have learned is to put the callipers back on the bike WITHOUT brake pads then re-bleed the system. I could then pump the pistons right up to the discs hydraulically, this works every time. With the pistons most of the way out I could then remove the callipers and pull the pistons out with self grip pliers. I got away with only needing two new pistons but a full set of new seals and master cylinder seals were fitted both front and back. The brakes were painted and rebuilt with new pads and stainless screws/bolts etc.
The brakes were in a right state.
But with some hard work they came up great.
I serviced the bike replacing the oil, filters and spark plugs. I fitted a pair of new Avon Storms and just for good measure replaced the steering bearings.
A new air filter will help it breath.
After about 2 months of ownership I fuelled the machine up ready for a test ride, donned my riding gear and set off round the estate where I live. It seemed heavy and lacking in power compared to my other bike, but I later discovered that a 600 four needs to be revved much higher up before it gives the 98 horses and torque that I was expecting from a 150 mph machine.
Soon the bike spluttered to a halt, outside my house fortunately.
I stripped down the carburettors and found them full of sediment which looked like rust residue, I put it down to being the last remnants of the tank flushing through. I blew out the jets and fitted four carb repair kits and an inline fuel filter so it wouldn't happen again. The filter I used is a high flow item, small in size and fits the 8 mm fuel pipe however as I later found out it was useless. Other jobs included repairing the bodywork, refurbishing the main stand and repairing several threads, all of which I am a dab hand at.
Before and after. It looks so much better.
Re-tapping the threads gets easier with practice.
As does repairing the fairings.
On a trip down to Devon in 2015 the bike broke down on the M5 with complete electrical failure, I and the bike had to be brought back by a recovery van. Upon investigation the CDI had blown caused by a failed regulator/rectifier unit. This took the next 9 months to sort out. I bought a brand new cheap rectifier and another CDI unit. I also replaced several blown bulbs and of course the cooked battery and she started right up.
With the onset of winter the battery demised again and I found out there was not enough charge being generated. I purchased a second hand generator, after all it couldn't be the rectifier as this was new. This was fitted and I checked the voltage reading which came up to 12.5 volts at 3000 rpm...damn it. I purchased a new aftermarket generator in the spring of 2016, fitted that and checked the voltage again, this time I got 13 volts at 3000rpm so what could be wrong? I left it in the garage for a couple of weeks before trying a very old rectifier from a Kawasaki GPz 600 and straight away the voltage went up to to 14.4 volts. Yes the new rectifier was at fault and it was my fault for buying what is probably Chinese rubbish. This time I bought the proper sh650 rectifier made for my model by Kawasaki, sorted finally.
Meanwhile several carb strips later I realised the fuel filter I had bought was letting sediment through and blocking the primary jets time after time so I ordered a paper type filter instead of the mesh type filter. I have yet to fit that to the bike, hopefully I can finally get some miles done 18 months after acquiring the bike. It just needs to prove itself to be reliable. All this messing has taken a long time and I have felt like giving up but I've stuck to it.
The mesh type filter I first fitted......
.....and the paper type I hope will work better in future.
Reader's Comments
Bob said :-
Sediment in the carbs - a nightmare that seemingly has no end. Well done for sticking with it! Especially on a faired 4 cylinder machine, which is the configuration that makes carb removal the hardest and longest when compared to any other layout.
A good fuel filter will help, have you tried filling the tank with bolts and sloshing them around to dislodge loose particles?
I once had an old R80 which kept pulling crud from the tank, despite it having filters. I'd pull up at the lights and there'd be fuel dripping out of one of the carbs. On that bike the float bowl was held on with a spring clip and it was possible to pop the bowl off, tap it out and re-attach without dismounting the bike! I even did it once without stopping the engine, left it banging on one side whilst I did it.
10/11/2016 11:55:12 UTC
Stephen latchford said :-
Bolts in the tank, er yes I have heard of that trick Bob but not tried it to date, 5 6 or 8 mm?
Only joking but think I will try it out .
Oh and Ren I forgot to mention that rear brake caliper, that is exactly as it was as soon as the Pistons were removed, only one seal per cylinder, someone had left the dust seals out and the rust worked itself all the way down the Pistons to the main seals.
I'd also like to thank you for taking the time to put this on your website
10/11/2016 17:15:54 UTC
Stephen latchford said :-
Bolts in the tank, er yes I have heard of that trick Bob but not tried it to date, 5 6 or 8 mm?
Only joking but think I will try it out .
Oh and Ren I forgot to mention that rear brake caliper, that is exactly as it was as soon as the Pistons were removed, only one seal per cylinder, someone had left the dust seals out and the rust worked itself all the way down the Pistons to the main seals.
I'd also like to thank you for taking the time to put this on your website
10/11/2016 17:18:44 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Thank me? I LOVE getting this sort of stuff to stick on the website! Big thanks to you Steve :)
10/11/2016 17:24:02 UTC
Stephen Latchford said :-
How did my comment get on here twice? How peculiar.
10/11/2016 17:38:18 UTC
Latchy said :-
I didn't show you the fairing when I had primed it
10/11/2016 17:48:40 UTC
Ian Soady said :-
Re bolts in the tank: I have read of people mounting the tank (firmly!) inside a concrete mixer, putting a couple of handfuls of bolts and a litre or two of water inside then turning it on for an hour or so. See link
May not be too good an idea if the metal's a bit thin - and I have to say I've never tried it myself.
BTW Latchy is that ordinary grey primer or special plastic stuff? I've used grey successfully on a minor repair I've done to the Super Four rear fairing but am slightly concerned about flexibility.
bsac10c11c12.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=7709.0...
11/11/2016 10:53:18 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
On the forum you link to Ian someone suggested putting the tank into the tumble drier. The reply came...
"Thank you for all the advice, I will get the mixer dragged out of the shed, I would love to the wife's face as the tanks spinning in the drier, we havnt got over me using the oven to remove crank bearings from crank cases."
Oh my word! That made me laugh.
11/11/2016 11:52:31 UTC
Ian Soady said :-
I've used the oven many times for those sorts of jobs (and the dishwasher to wash parts, although this isn't so successful).
But then I'm responsible for most kitchen-related activities in our house. My wife does sometimes ask what the funny smell is......
11/11/2016 12:25:55 UTC
Latchy said :-
It is etch primer Ian, not much more expensive than ordinary stuff, it will adhere to anything.
11/11/2016 17:42:23 UTC
Ian Soady said :-
I've used etch primer (Upol) for surfaces like chrome plate and alloy, but get better results from ordinary grey primer on other substrates (possibly my technique).
I did try etch primer on the rear fairing I mentioned but it reacted with part of the existing top coat so had to sand it all off. I suspect that top coat wasn't original Honda.....
My favourite aerosol is Hycote, although for silver I like Tetrosyl wheel paint (which was a perfect match for the Honda silver).
12/11/2016 11:08:55 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Etch primer, hycote, tetrosil. I know what these words mean and what the brands do but only in the same way I know about NASA. I wonder if I'll ever "fill" then "rub down" then "spray"? Naaaah, I don't need pretty.
13/11/2016 08:17:24 UTC
Ian Soady said :-
It's probably an age thing Ren.....
13/11/2016 12:00:11 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
What age do I need to be Ian? I know I only look 25 but I'm 45 now, I must be due my mid life crisis.
What am I going to do for my mid life crisis? Most men get a motorcycle if they can't afford a sports car but I've already got one. I may take up knitting or flower arranging.
14/11/2016 07:49:49 UTC
Ian Soady said :-
Mid life? But that assumes you'll make it to 90......
Mind you I was encouraged by a recent TV programme about the first TV transmission by the BBC (they recreated a Baird camera with a spinning disc - well worth a watch). There was a 105-year-old man who had been one of John Logie Baird's assistants and he was still as sharp as a tack!
You could always get a lathe......
16/11/2016 12:10:19 UTC
Latchy said :-
Just got a decent looking rear shock for the kwacker and will be overhauling all the suspension as there is a fair bit of play in one of the unitrack linkages and I have painted up a spare swing arm, I will also be trying out a zinc plating kit on all the rusty steel bits and bobs that I remove in the process.
I have just been looking at the bearing sizes of the uni track and naughty Kawasaki have made them 27mm outer diameter which looks like 1 mm larger than all the main bearing stockists make/stock at 26mm.
Big question is do I buy a knuckle and get the holes bored out and sleeved back down to 26mm, the bearings are only 25% of the price of Kawasaki bearings.
Here is a pic of my new to me shock absorber
25/11/2016 17:58:56 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
I hate complex linkages for suspension. Totally unnecessary for everyday road use, prone to wearing out and/or seizing up and as you've found out they don't seem to use off-the-shelf sizes. "Designed to fail" comes to mind.
26/11/2016 09:17:33 UTC
Ian Soady said :-
I'd be interested to see how the zinc plating kit works out. I've seen stuff done with the nickel plating kits and they never look that good - which is probably down to poor preparation.
26/11/2016 10:30:11 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
Ian, Latchy has the nerdy skills and patience, if anyone can make it work he will.
26/11/2016 10:36:25 UTC
Latchy said :-
I have used the kit before with good results,
I'll post pics before and after when I get round to doing it Ian
26/11/2016 15:55:05 UTC
Latchy said :-
I have a plan regarding the under sized bearings, I will try to sleeve the holes down myself with some shimming steel, 0.5mm or 0.020" should do the trick nicely, and only £3
26/11/2016 16:16:28 UTC
Ian Soady said :-
Loctite Bearing Fit 660 is said to be able to take up gaps of up to 0.5mm according to the data sheet so should be able to deal with your issue (actually I misread your original and thought the bearing outer was too big.....)
I've used shim before for this sort of thing and it can work but can also work its way out of the gap or even disintegrate. Maybe shim plus bearing fit?
www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802627715073...
26/11/2016 16:49:09 UTC
Latchy said :-
Thanks for that , might have a dabble.
This is a pic of the item, notice it has six top hat collars (only three on show this side) that the frame shock and dog bones will hold in place when bolted back together, there are 5 drawn cup bearings in there, 27 mm outer dia, the bearings widely available are 26 mm and a fraction of the cost, so I reckon it is worth a try, but I think I will still have to purchase the genuine Kawasaki steel bushes that fit in them though. Times like this I wish I had a lathe, pfft.
26/11/2016 17:02:31 UTC
Ian Soady said :-
I assume they're needle rollers - something like this no good? (see link):
Those are budget (read cheap Chinese) but I would imagine they're a stock size.
Another alternative might be to get the casting bored to 28mm; and if the ones I pointed to are no good maybe getting some custom bushes made to suit.
Years ago when I had a Honda Dominator I replaced the bushes with off-the-shelf stainless bar which I bored on the lathe and they seemed to last very well. Purists would weep into their beer, but then they often do when they see what I've done......
At least your component has grease nipples fitted.
www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing/nk19-16-budget-brand/15225...
27/11/2016 12:05:08 UTC
James said :-
Perhaps sloshing bolts around a zzr600 tank needs further thought as there is a fuel level sensor assembly in there which could get smashed. Would a better way be to fill it with 10litres of cheap vinegar topped up with water and let it sit a while? Or could that do damage to stuff in there.
18/07/2020 00:26:31 UTC
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